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pin = grub screw
pole = shaft
Tighten it up more, only in very ocasionally have I had to use locktight on a grub screw. Dont be afraid to do it tight.
Who's in to electric RC cars?
- Thread starter Rilot
- Start date
pin = grub screw
pole = shaft
Tighten it up more, only in very ocasionally have I had to use locktight on a grub screw. Dont be afraid to do it tight.
ive always put blue thread lock on grub screws.
any metal to metal bolts , nuts , screws, grubs should ideally have blue threadlock on them.
if you dont have any get some for uber cheap off ebay
i got some "zap blue threadlocker" and "force sleeve and bush" permanent stuff i think they were both £2 each posted
any metal to metal bolts , nuts , screws, grubs should ideally have blue threadlock on them.
if you dont have any get some for uber cheap off ebay
i got some "zap blue threadlocker" and "force sleeve and bush" permanent stuff i think they were both £2 each posted
Soldato
Righto guys, got a question for ya, when i was racing/bashing a few years back the connectors i used were Deans, pain in the backside to solder and often very hard to remove from each other, what types of connectors do you guys suggest to use, based on ease of installation (solder/crimping) and connectivity?
Oh and a decent servo for a 1/10th SC truck, stock one is a weak pos
Oh and a decent servo for a 1/10th SC truck, stock one is a weak pos
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I was feeling a bit nostalgic last night so I ordered one of these...
It's a Tamiya XR311. Originally released in 1977
good year and that is awesome looking, musta cost a bit ?
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I use XT60's in my large heli. Easy to solder and quite easy to attach remove.
I was feeling a bit nostalgic last night so I ordered one of these...
It's a Tamiya XR311. Originally released in 1977
I can remember drooling over this and the Cheetah in my mums catalogue back then.
They do look awesome. It's very scale as well. Like most of Tamiya's recent re-releases, it did cost a fair bit.
The Cheetah seems to be the rarer of the 2, same chassis from what i remember though
The deans are probably the best for connectivity, along with the newer Traxxas connectors. They both are a pain to solder though.
What kind of budget are you look for your servo?
Soldato
Dunno about budget, probably around 20-30 range, and as for the connectors, Ive seen talk about powerpoles, bullets, corallys the list goes on lol, think ill stick with the deans even though they are a major pain in the arse - not had an r/c car since 09, so while im not new to it i feel quite out of the loop regarding whats hot and whats not.
Best places to get connectors in bulk - guessing the bay?
Should add, all this is for a 1/10th SC truck, running a standard brushed motor and stock esc at present, will be a while till i move back to brushless like i had previously in 09, as ive been reading a lot of people are running the bullet connectors or the losi ec3/5's as they claim the deans cant handle the brushless amp draw, they might be talking about 1/8th scale systems and not 1/10th, but got me thinking about future proofing.
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Have a look at this in regards to servos. Savox make good stuff and they make them tough as well.
Yep, the bay would be a good place to get them from. A few of the guys at my local club run deans on 1/8th buggies and i haven't heard of any having problems with them melting or anything.
Soldato
Sweet cheers bud, servo looks spot on, I'll grab that next week, and as for the connectors, I've bought some deans and some ec3's, see which is easier, looking forward to taking it out and wrecking it now as that's the most enjoyable part for me, fixing it once I've broken it haha
Some pics and a couple of quick vids of my latest project, a 1:8 scale Short Course truck. Full build thread here, but it's basicly a Hyper ST truggy chassis with Hyper 7 buggy suspension arms.
A couple of vids:
A couple of vids:
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just got myself another rc car, decided to mod it a tad as well hehe
started out with a box of bits to be honest, they were goin cheap so i thought what the hell
built up to this
now you will be wondering what the F the green bit is, well its my custom motor mount i made with a dremel haha, this car used to be petrol, and had a kyosho gs11r motor in it, but it didnt come with all the parts so i decided to mod it instead, the motor i have in is a friends for mock up
another shot of the motor mount, not the tidyest but its solid
heres my rear end, im planning on making this a drift car, so no rear suspension needed
and the front end setup
no clue why photobucket has it sideways haha
started out with a box of bits to be honest, they were goin cheap so i thought what the hell
built up to this
now you will be wondering what the F the green bit is, well its my custom motor mount i made with a dremel haha, this car used to be petrol, and had a kyosho gs11r motor in it, but it didnt come with all the parts so i decided to mod it instead, the motor i have in is a friends for mock up
another shot of the motor mount, not the tidyest but its solid
heres my rear end, im planning on making this a drift car, so no rear suspension needed
and the front end setup
no clue why photobucket has it sideways haha
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Soldato
I need to get some of my pics up.
Currently running
Kyosho FS2 SP,
Kyosho RudeBits DB1
Kyosho RB6
Elsewhere have a XXCR Kinwald and a team durango 410.
The new x-ray xb4 looks awesome.
Currently running
Kyosho FS2 SP,
Kyosho RudeBits DB1
Kyosho RB6
Elsewhere have a XXCR Kinwald and a team durango 410.
The new x-ray xb4 looks awesome.
Presumably you mis-spelled petrol and no, it didn't. It was NITRO. It drives me mad when people call nitro cars petrol. Petrol RCs are a completely different thing.
Also, it's still a good idea to have rear suspension on a drift car as it allows you to tweak the setup better.
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just got myself another one, havnt moved much on the project, wanted a ready to run one, cost me 95 quid all in including delivery
excuse the iphone quality, shall upload a video once i get the hang of it drifting
excuse the iphone quality, shall upload a video once i get the hang of it drifting