World first QD-OLED monitor from Dell and Samsung (34 inch Ultrawide 175hz)

@Baddass tried out your settings + icc. Color range def is expanded over creator/sRGB and looks good. Only thing that looks a bit off is the red luminance level. Seems to be 'spiked' over the others. Curious if you noticed that. Certainly visible when there's red on black background or red lettering over black.
 
@Baddass tried out your settings + icc. Color range def is expanded over creator/sRGB and looks good. Only thing that looks a bit off is the red luminance level. Seems to be 'spiked' over the others. Curious if you noticed that. Certainly visible when there's red on black background or red lettering over black.
Do you mean for sRGB aware applications or stuff running in full native gamut without the icc profile gamut mapping in use?
 
Didn’t notice any issues with it on the unit I used and calibrated against but likely just down to display and system variations. You could maybe turn down the red channel a bit in the custom colour preset mode
 
Is there a way to update?
According to the dell support staff they're saying the firmware is not going to be user updatable.


They're recommending people to send the monitor back if they want the new firmware which is quite something.

Good job I don't seem to have any issues with the way the pixel refresh warning works at the moment after telling it to not notify me. Only see it pop up if I've had the monitor on for over 12 hours straight. Which isn't very common to be fair. If I am in all day due to working from home and then doing stuff at night I usually try to turn the monitor off when ever I'm leaving the desk for a bit and have been using it for more than 4 hours straight.
 
Unless you are video editing in wider colour ranges or other content that requires the expanded gamut, then it's more logical to stick with the settings mentioned in the thread before. Creator mode, sRGB, OSD gamma 2.4. These are the most accurate out of box settings, then set brightness/contrast to what feels comfortable (53/66 in my case). Visually the look is on par with my old internal LUT calibrated LG IPS. Pretty much 100% of the web is in sRGB as well, so viewing with a wide gamut will make web content look weird on colours depending on the content, browser, website etc.

I also found that QD-OLED looks the best for accuracy after it's been on for about 30 minutes. From a cold start it may feel a bit off shade but 20-30 mins after things have warmed up, it's back to normal. Just like how audio amplifiers perform their best when warm.

For me, everything looks perfect, and I don't get the oversaturated primary colours that often follow standard OLED displays when set to the "factory" OSD settings.

Re: Firmware, I will wait a year or two and then file for a replacement which will no doubt have the then latest firmware on. Mine has no issues right now and no screen marks etc so I intend to keep it as such and once the later revisions have been out a while will file a ticket for the lack of OSD auto message for the refresh and get them to replace the monitor like that guy in the Alienware thread above.

It is stupid not being able to user update the firmware, but this is at Dell's expense and we get next day swapout so take advantage of the system while the 3 years warranty still exists folks. I might even wait until a full 2 years and then sell the replacement to buy the then latest QD-OLED from whoever does the best one then.
 
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I think I might have an issue. So just to check to see if the AW behaviour is normal; in the on screen menu settings, if you change the HDR modes while not in HDR on windows does your screen go black for a while when changing modes?
 
Normal. It's just internally switching for when it is in HDR mode it's already in the setting ready. To switch mode it has to standby cycle the panel hence why it disconnects the monitor from Windows too and you hear the disconnected device tone.
 
Mine just popped up the Panel refresh prompt. Interesting.

Some maths, 1500 hours = 62.5 days. which, given I received this replacement on the 1st April, is exactly the number of days since I plugged it in and started using it. Now I know for sure that I have not been using it for 62.5 days straight, so the time is definitely counting up from the moment power goes into it.
 
Hdr1000 for gaming

Hdr400 for everything else, or actually just SDR for everything else

But it's not a true HDR1000, this monitor is only officially certified for HDR400 as it doesn't meet the full HDR1000 spec
Rather have this than IPS dimming zone crap though. At least what's there is the proper thing. Not light bleeding into places it ain't meant to be.
 
Hdr1000 for gaming

Hdr400 for everything else, or actually just SDR for everything else

But it's not a true HDR1000, this monitor is only officially certified for HDR400 as it doesn't meet the full HDR1000 spec
HDR1000 for non native hdr games?

Do you need adjust setings such as contrast when switching between SDR HDR 400 and HDR 1000.
 
It's more accurate at 400 as that's the HDR standard it complies with. Peak 1000 is not a standards compliant mode.
hmm, confliciting opinions on the forum, I guess I need to wait for the monitor and see for myself. Would be nice if there was a guide out there to get the best out of the monitor. Saying that, this is kind of a subjective matter.
 
For non native HDR games (SDR), don't bother using HDR, stick to non HDR mode. Games look better as intended that way. Windows is pretty crap at SDR to HDR conversion for that purpose anyway.

Peak 1000 is fine but as mentioned, 400 is just better as it's more accurate and designed with standards compliance. Brightness etc isn't as compromised when you have very bright areas on screen in a game for example on 400 vs 1000.. Try both in various games and see what's what.
 
From my testing there’s very little difference between the two modes in terms of PQ tracking, colour temp, greyscale accuracy and colour accuracy. The only real difference seems to be the peak brightness capability of the two modes and the only reasons I can think of to use HDR400 mode would be either if you find HDR1000 mode too bright from close up for things like PC gaming, or find the ABL changes too noticeable. The first is likely to be a more common reason I think to avoid the 1000 mode

Personally the 1000 mode looked a lot better in HDR content with more of a pop
 
Some comments on reddit about the timer for pixel/panel refresh. It is possible that if you have Eco mode off in the OSD then the timer counts standby time as well which is definitely what I have observed as have had Eco off since day 1 on this replacement.

Easy way to test is now if to have Eco on and see how often the Pixel refresh initiates, so if that is the case, the Eco mode on should only be tracking the active use hours and not standby hours as well.
 
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