Your current Fish tank Setups!

GTO656 said:
Guys is my hammer ok? you can see some of the tentacles are retracted near some of the sides and centre, second picture is when it looked great. My other hammer is doing really good tho.
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It can be many factors affecting them, too much flow, too much light, alk swing, too much nitrates, too low nitrates, calcium level, magnesium level.

whats your parameters?
what kind of light you have?

they could be just acclimatising to new system.
 
Looks like you can see white skeleton in that pic.

If so ive never had one recover from whatever it is once it shows skeleton, could be fish nipping at it or anything above really
 
NoobCannon said:
Looks like you can see white skeleton in that pic.

If so ive never had one recover from whatever it is once it shows skeleton, could be fish nipping at it or anything above really
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I have had it 5 weeks today, I only just did water change this past Sunday. Amm 0, Nitri 0, Nitra 15. These are all I check atm(know will have to check all,cal and mag at sum point). But all my other corals are fine, I have two percula clowns, chalk goby and two turbo snails for livestock. I forgot to say I raised the tank salinty from 1.021 to 1.022 slowly during water change. As I got false reading from refractometer and now using the hanna salinity tester.
 
@GTO656 Not to tell you to suck eggs but You do realise that alk and calcium and magnesium are the main ones to worry about don't ya? The only other thing i check regularly is anmonia.

Everything else is left unless i can see a problem altho i skim aggressively and use a clarisea so most stuff doesnt get a chance to break down into nastys.

Also no idea about that salt. Have you ever tested what it mixes too? Also your sg is a bit low, should be 1.25-6 imo

If its a small/new tank you should be able to get away without dosing for now but definatly check those levels. I use the red sea tritation kits if it helps you choose some testing equip btw.

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/s...MIubihhvHu4wIVA7DtCh04YA_JEAQYASABEgIre_D_BwE
 
The general rule of thumb is that you can get get away with keeping a few soft corals with just doing regular water changes. But anything else and you are going to run into trouble. If I had to guess now I would say its alk, it will be getting used up all week, and then when you do a water change there will be a big swing.
 
Thanks guy I will get that test kit soon, yes it is small tank which is well established and has cheato running with carbon and biomax had for over 6 weeks as tank was second hand the guy was using red sea salt and I changed salt to red sea coral pro. Ok will check alk first what range should it be around? I will still check the cal and mag levels too when it arrives. Cheers guys
 
GTO656 said:
Thanks guy I will get that test kit soon, yes it is small tank which is well established and has cheato running with carbon and biomax had for over 6 weeks as tank was second hand the guy was using red sea salt and I changed salt to red sea coral pro. Ok will check alk first what range should it be around? I will still check the cal and mag levels too when it arrives. Cheers guys
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I dose my tank to 9-9.5 alk and 450 calcium. Generally you wanna pick a level and do your best to keep it there.

Anything between 8-11 is ok i think. Stability is the most important so choose a number somewhere in there and stick to it!

For salt i use DD h20cean pro it mixes fast and consistently, 1.20kg per 25ltrs of ro gives me 1.26 sg. However if your @Spook187 Then you just use the most expensive salt you can possibly buy :)
 
rebel rebel said:
Hand stirred by virgins from the Maldives.
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And hand packed by the finest northern “lady's”

GTO656 said:
No not yet, I am using red sea pro salt though. Everything else is good like torch coral,zoas,acan,gsp,xenia and such
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Have just seen this part of your post, do your self a favour and remove the gsp and xenia before it over runs your tank, that stuff grows like weeds and spreads if its so much as looked at
 
NoobCannon said:
I dose my tank to 9-9.5 alk and 450 calcium. Generally you wanna pick a level and do your best to keep it there.

Anything between 8-11 is ok i think. Stability is the most important so choose a number somewhere in there and stick to it!

For salt i use DD h20cean pro it mixes fast and consistently, 1.20kg per 25ltrs of ro gives me 1.26 sg. However if your @Spook187 Then you just use the most expensive salt you can possibly buy :)
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Hehe, to be honest it's worth it, I've noticed the growth on my sps is excellent since going over to fauna marin salt.
 
NoobCannon said:
And hand packed by the finest northern “lady's”



Have just seen this part of your post, do your self a favour and remove the gsp and xenia before it over runs your tank, that stuff grows like weeds and spreads if its so much as looked at
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Ok thanks a lot, will remove them soon, ok so now will wait for test kit to arrive and see where it's at. Do u think there is any need to move its position or give it a coral dip? Or will that stress it more? And leave as it is.
 
GTO656 said:
Ok thanks a lot, will remove them soon, ok so now will wait for test kit to arrive and see where it's at. Do u think there is any need to move its position or give it a coral dip? Or will that stress it more? And leave as it is.
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Imo move it away from the other hammer as if its got something you will wanna minimise the chance of loosing the other one. If it starts showing brown jelly then id dip it.

http://aquariumcoraldiseases.weebly.com/brown-jelly-syndrome-bjs--brown-band-disease-brb.html

If honest i think your fighting a losing battle at this point as ive never saved one once it starts showing the skeleton.
 
Spook187 said:
If she did her research she would have known that, zoathids handle with care.
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I used to handle zoas without gloves and always used to get severe headach and nausea that one episode sent me to the internet as i knew those things were dangerous. Behold to my surprise i found out they were not dangerous but DEADLY. Granted not all zoas are poisonous but best to handle with care.

Also i would recommend ALWAYS running carbon and using long gloves when you touch your tank. You can catch some nasty diseases from your marine tank some very nasty ones.
 
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