Type R and VTEC owners

peterintheghetto said:
Guys, what's the best route to take to feed a power lead from the battery to the boot on an EP3?
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I didn't fit it but I've got 4 AWG gauge running down the left, can't tell you the exact route, but it's defo on the left through the firewall.

/edit Just to be clearer... It's on the same side as the battery.
 
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Guru said:
I didn't fit it but I've got 4 AWG gauge running down the left, can't tell you the exact route, but it's defo on the left through the firewall.

/edit Just to be clearer... It's on the same side as the battery.
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Thanks.

I'll assume there's a rubber gromit under the passenger footwell so I can probably feed it through there :)
 
Simon i myself dont think that welded pipe is any different from one another. If its same material and good welds. It will work exactly the same :)
But with Toda you get extra e-pen cos its TODA :D
 
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Lord_ZED said:
Simon i myself dont think that welded pipe is any different from one another. If its same material and good welds. It will work exactly the same :)
But with Toda you get extra e-pen cos its TODA :D
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Number 4 cylinder has a significantly different orientation at the head which leads to a different route, also the merge collectors are different.

Wonder which is heavier.... same OD pipe isnt always the same bore.
 
Lord_ZED said:
Simon i myself dont think that welded pipe is any different from one another. If its same material and good welds. It will work exactly the same :)
But with Toda you get extra e-pen cos its TODA :D
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Is it the same material though, how sure are we. Also how is the design the same, did they literally cut a Toda to pieces and replicate it? NO!

I stirred up a storm in their LCA group buy thread as all they did was copy a F7 arm, change a few bits then boom, a new LCA. No actual design, Engineering or testing in volved. They literally just copied a part, chose about the same material then released it to the public...... An integral part of the rear suspension.

Don't get me wrong, they make some good copies of bits and bobs, but I would avoid their suspension and exhaust parts.
 
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Simon

I was talking about replica/copy. Same pipe sizes bends and all.
If i had option of used Toda for 450 or new Copy/replica for 450. I would go for Toda OFC. But if u have used 450 and copy/replica for lets say 150 i would get copy.

If i find dynos we did with Ebay 4-1 vs DC sports 4-1 on my mates ek4 b16. It was 1hp more on DC sports depending on the run. And could not tell difference on power curve. So on my EG6 i went with ebay one. Seven years later and multiple times it hit speed bumps curves ect.

Anyway its all about what you expect for the money you pay :)
U get what You pay for as usual :D
 
Lord_ZED said:
I was talking about replica/copy. Same pipe sizes bends and all.
If i had option of used Toda for 450 or new Copy/replica for 450. I would go for Toda OFC. But if u have used 450 and copy/replica for lets say 150 i would get copy.

If i find dynos we did with Ebay 4-1 vs DC sports 4-1 on my mates ek4 b16. It was 1hp more on DC sports depending on the run. And could not tell difference on power curve. So on my EG6 i went with ebay one. Seven years later and multiple times it hit speed bumps curves ect.

Anyway its all about what you expect for the money you pay :)
U get what You pay for as usual :D
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DC Sports.... lol
 
NathWraith said:
Well that is a given obviously.
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Its not obvious at all, infact the original statement was tongue in cheek so Im not sure why you are taking it seriously - in any case if we were to take it seriously.

The two best headers for the S2000 are Js racing and Toda. Both use different size primarys and secondarys yet are both very good, all the 'copies' seem to be no where near.

Also the pipe diameter is often quoted as OD yet the TODA uses really thin wall pipes. A lot of the copies use thicker walls which has a habit of being too strong in the wrong places (around brackets subject to vibration) ended up with a manifold that cracks/splits. Not easy to repair without having the backside of welds causing flow issues.

Last point on this, the standard S2000 manifold is very good. A nice looking copy will often perform worse, spoon is an example as these lose top end power with a tiny midrange.

So £450 for a copy to maybe lose power or similar cost for a proven part. Anyway I believe they are running a members car on Monday for before and after (Manifold the only mod)
 
Tegwa provides great 'bang for buck', Toda is the best but you pay a premium for the quality.
I have the TDI manifold (XO/AAS) and this is a dyno comparison against, Toda, mine has better top end due to the long primaries but loses quite a bit of midrange torque which is what most FN2 owners want to improve the most.
I don't know the in's and outs of an S2000 though.
 
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