Who here owns a Renaultsport?

Alex_6n2 said:
So are you gonna tell us what it was?! :D

My misfire came and went by itself. But I still sometimes get a flashing EML on idle when it's cold

Tempted to replace the coil pack to see if that helps. It's deffo not an injector as the only fault code is for the O2 sensor - which isn't broken as I replaced it already.
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Coilpack;) Changed the HT leads first, no dice. We had it on the tuner box to read fault codes but there weren't any, which was odd. So took the two simplest, and most common ones to check. (knew the plugs were okay as I'd checked them the day before).

I've now done a preliminary deal for some eibach Prolines. Look in relatively good nick, and at £80 and local I think they're cheap!
 
brightside_ said:
So looking at tyres. Every "normal" tyre place i search on has my clio down as 195/45/16 80V
However the default size if I search on google is 205/45.

Currently have 205s all round. 195s however on camskill are a quite a bit less. How much is would this affect handling? After all I only need 2 so just doesn't seem right.
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The correct tyre size is 205/45/R16 83V. The tyre that Renault designed the 182 Cup chassis for is the Michelin Pilot Exalto 2. If you read all the original reviews when it was launched, all the mags raved about the tyres. http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evocarreviews/43716/renaultsport_clio.html
Evo Mag said:
For the Clio 182 you really want, Renault asks you to hand over an extra 200 notes for the 'Cup' chassis option. It's a form of blackmail because if you buy a 182 without it you'll regret it. The option involves a 3mm lower ride height, spring rates up a further 20 per cent at the front and 15 per cent at the rear, and even tricker Michelins.

Michelin rubber has become a key component in the performance of many recent models, although it does have downsides; standing water, for instance, in the case of the M3 CSL and cold weather problems on Porsche's Carrera GT. The new Michelin Exalto 2s on the Clio 182, however, are useable all day, every day, allowing the potential of the chassis to be fully exploited, for longer.

The combination of the Exalto 2 and the optional 'Cup' chassis is an absolute killer. The headline figures don't do it justice. The 179bhp motor, a 0-60mph of 7.1sec and a 139mph maximum aren't shabby, but you'll not conquer the Civic Type-R or Focus RS in a bar-room contest. Meet one of them out on the road and it'll be an entirely different story...

Balance-wise the chassis is on the ever-so-slightly-nervous side of neutral. Its relatively light weight and the Michelin tyres mean this Clio changes direction better than any front-wheel-drive car I've ever driven. It adopts that super-aggressive, tarmac- rally-car, flat-cornering patter - body roll is virtually non-existent.
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If you read on ClioSport, everyone who has switched to cheaper tyres and then comes back to the proper Michelins raves about them also.

However, the Michelin PE2 is now discontinued. My 182 came wearing PE2s from the original owner, and I've got a couple of spares in the garage still. Michelin's successor to the PE2 is the Pilot Sport 3, so that is the natural replacement. I had my worn set of PE2s replaced with a new set of PS3s 6k miles ago, and have found them to be a perfectly fine replacement. Those on ClioSport who have replaced their PE2s with PS3s also find them fine.

Once again though, the correct Michelin’s are not the cheapest and given how cheap 182s are these days half the owners won't bother and just fit something cheaper. No doubt they'd say that those of us that fit the correct tyres are wasting our money, but given that Evo said at the time "In fact, so good is the Clio 182 with the Cup chassis set-up that I feel moved to make a bold statement - I think it's the best hot hatch ever built.", and in the 2012 Evo tyre test the PS3 came third, I really don't see the point in compromising.
I paid 4* £137 (balanced on the Hunter RoadForce machine, copper slip greased the hub, done up with a torque wrench rather than air guns), plus £60 for tracking on the Hunter laser jobber (might as-well whilst there).
 
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Washed my car today and decided to go out for a quick drive. I was on a nice open stretch of road so decided to make use of the power and upon changing from 2nd to 3rd I heard a loud snapping sound after bringing the clutch pedal back up. Pulled over and found these in my foot well...

Fail_zps4777a1d5.jpg


Looks like the clutch return spring. The car still drives fine though.

My driver's side window has also randomly decided to stop working again too. I've got a 12 month warranty though so I'll look into getting these sorted soon. *sigh*
 
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I had a nice drive back from my brothers in Sheffield the other day. Brakes when I was using them aggressively felt really good. No squeaks when they warm up lol.

However, the front end really does try and pull hard to one side when you put your foot down, and you go over white lines, uneven camber etc.On flat roads its obviously fine, but its a really strong pull on uneven roads. Is this entirely normal, or have I got a problem? Doesn't seem right to me :(
I have no idea what the problem is either! Checked power steering rack bushes and there's a tiny tiny bit of movement, but doesn't seem enough to warrant this. Checked the track rod ends, tie rods, ball joints, wishbones visually and they all seem fine.

Could shocks have an effect on this? Top mounts? Bit stumped :(
 
What tyre pressures are you using? 1-2 psi difference on one side of my car made a noticeable difference to the 'tram lining' effect on rough roads and painted lines.

Also failing rear shocks can cause that kind of behaviour. I had to replace mine when I had my 172 as one of them felt a bit softer than the other when compressing them off the car. They're easy enough to remove so might be worth trying that. New shocks can be had for about £45-50 a side so not too expensive either. The first signs I felt of my rear shocks going where when turning sharply the car wobbled and felt unstable like the back end wanted to kick out. Failing rear shocks seem to make the entire car feel a bit unsafe and nervous so I'd check them to at least rule them out. Should take 30-45 mins to get them both off and check them.

In other news, looks like I'll be taking my 225 on a dyno on the 23rd Feb. £30 for 3 runs which is pretty decent I think! :D
 
My 172's in at Diamond Motors tomorrow, full service, gearbox oil change (£180), front lambda sensor change (£52 + labour), powerflex dogbone mounts (£38 + labour) are going in and the engine top mounts are going to be checked with probably the engine pulled forward. This should stop the engine and manifold crashing around under heavy accelleration.

I'm also getting my ABS pump bracket sorted as it's vibrating still and the cars pulling to the right which I'm not sure what it could be. It had new steering rods and track rod ends a couple of years ago and the alignment has been done a few times over the past few years. I know the suspension was starting to show signs of corrosion so maybe one of them has failed but on full lock the car jumps when turning in a tight circle.

Hopefully a ride out with Mick will highlight all the faults and he'll be able to sort them out for a reasonable price. I probably won't get much change from £500?

[EDIT]: In addition I need to get the rear brakes checked and calipers cleaned out. I'll probably need new discs and pads, are they OK direct from Renault or do they rip you off:?
 
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So talk to me about a 2006 Renault sport 197.

Looking at possibly one of these as a new car and would like to know some info from owners.
 
most mass market cars suffer from colour mis match with plastic / metal body parts.

Its simply not cost effective to correctly match them 100 %.

Vauxhall, Ford etc.. all suffer from it.
 
Car looks lovely in that picture, the mis match between wings and body work never bothered me with my ice berg. I havnt really noticed it at all with my inferno, going to have a proper look later now :S
 
thank god I had my belts done before Llandow. With Mick @ Diamond Motors right now, the top aux belt tensioner support bracket was butchered to get to fit, wrong tension on the cambelt and the mid belt protection shield was broken and been very badly glued.

Jesus!


I massively owe one to my dad who has driven a couple of hours to help me out with parts!
 
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