Pc failure help

Okay treated myself to a new SSD and the cable.

My plan is to put OS on the new SSD.

Then later when os is running. Dive into the old OS drive and retrieve the files from its desktop that are most important to me onto my new OS SSD.

Going to stick to a much more strict folder structure this time on the new SSD and for the desktop. Managed and organised better. Storage will be easier trackable this time and not as wasted.

Then going to wipe the old OS ssd. And use this for steam/gaming.

Then I'm sorted :D long as the SSD doesn't cause any problems and is compatible with the amd stuff. I think it ll be fine though. :D

So I put the ram in now and run bios without any storage connected?
 
https://postimg.cc/gallery/1oijtsn0a/

It lives!

I'm dam sure it's quieter than before.

So at the start I pushed the PSU power cable in. When I switched it on. The keyboard lit up. Normally it never would until I've pressed the power on button and the it's like halfway through booting the os. Maybe cos the old mobo was bad?

Also at the top one fan is running with no light the middle guy. The fan top right has lit on but not running.

CPU temp is like 37 atm board is like 32.

Been running for like 30mins. Half way through idling the display flicked off for like 2 seconds then came back to displaying the same as before. That's been it really

Just gotta wait for SSD to come now

Edit. I thought the wrath cooler had RGB? I guess not : p
 
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Ahh yeah the spire

I have the tops connected to the hub. I'm going to trace the cable tomorrow.

My SSD comes on Thursday. Do you know much about ssds? I have the Samsung MZ-76E1T0B/EU 1 TB 860 EVO Sata III 64L V NAND Solid State Drive coming

I was checking the HDDs when they were out. And realised ones 1tb and the other is 2tb lol . I'm glad you told me to take out the hd cage. They are both in the lower cage now. Works out so much better
 
alexsalter3d said:
I have the tops connected to the hub.
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How many fans are you running in total, now?

alexsalter3d said:
Do you know much about ssds? I have the Samsung MZ-76E1T0B/EU 1 TB 860 EVO Sata III 64L V NAND Solid State Drive coming
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That's a quality 'branded' SSD - if you're in the market for another take look at WD or Crucial if you want to save a bit of money (still quality units).

alexsalter3d said:
I'm glad you told me to take out the hd cage. They are both in the lower cage now. Works out so much better
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Excellent - glad it's working out for you.

*We'll need to set up your memory - 2933MHz - via the XMP, but save that for tomorrow.
 
I don't think I've ever set up memory before, why do we have to do that? Is it because we are only using 2 and 4?

I only have Samsung ssds, I should have gone for a cheaper one but I couldn't resist . I really dislike when it comes to storage that the size you buy is never the exact size you actually get

I'm running 8 fans at the moment. The filters seem to dampen air flow a good bit. I'm using the two connected k2 heatsink fans in one of the sys fan slots.

The airflows really good now. I set up another fan and aimed it at the board and it dropped the temp by 1

I'm really over focused on looking after the components now lol. (A long time ago I spent weeks trying to design or plan a way of actually cooling the air for the pc. I messed around with so many ideas, from cooling the air surrounding the actual pc, the air entering the front of the pc, all sorts lol, if there was a way I would, just not found it yet)

Pump sys fan runs faster at 1000rpm that's the back extraction one at the moment all others are like 750rpm. I presume the others that arnt sys fans are 1000?
 
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alexsalter3d said:
I don't think I've ever set up memory before, why do we have to do that? Is it because we are only using 2 and 4?
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No, we placed the memory into slots 2 and 4 so that your memory runs in dual channel mode. If you look at your screen shot the memory has defaulted to 2400Mhz - we need to set the memory profile so that it runs at 2933Mhz (the speed of your memory). You do this via the XMP - in 'Easy Mode' you can click the 'A-XMP' button at the top and select profile that changes it to 2933MHz.

W9RxUQp.jpg


alexsalter3d said:
I'm running 8 fans at the moment. The filters seem to dampen air flow a good bit. I'm using the two connected k2 heatsink fans in one of the sys fan slots.
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You could run 4 fans using the filters that came with the case - less flow restriction. The extraction fans really don't need any filters as these would be extracting the dust you're trapping in the filters (if that makes sense).

alexsalter3d said:
>fan concerns<
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You have a very roomy case - if you hook up two intakes at the very front (relying on just the case filters) and take off the home made filters off the extraction (as not needed) - you will have enough cooling for your system. Plus, you'll be able to run the fans off the motherboard - and as mentioned previously setup a curve that will keep your fans quiet and cool the system.

alexsalter3d said:
Pump sys fan runs faster at 1000rpm that's the back extraction one at the moment all others are like 750rpm. I presume the others that arnt sys fans are 1000?
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Pump fan is for an AIO - and will be running the fan at 100%.

What are the name/model of your fans?
 
Yeah that makes sense. I ll have to sort the extraction fans out. I ll do the ram tonight. I just worry about dust getting in and building up lol. They are all practically the same brand fans as the case itself, NZXT Switch 810.

I guess it ll be nice having a fresh os.

So I've planned it out roughly. I think is that what I've gotta do. When the SSD comes tomorrow. I need to plug it into the laptop and format it fully as just empty space.

Then get my 8gig usb and plus the .iso windows10 onto the usb

Then plug both into pc and boot from usb and then tell it to install onto SSD. The go back biso and tell it to boot from ssd always

Hopefully that makes sense. I need to make sure I don't screw this part up. I don't want to mess up the os or bios. I don't need to partition the SSD do I? Hopefully not..
 
alexsalter3d said:
I think is that what I've gotta do. When the SSD comes tomorrow. I need to plug it into the laptop and format it fully as just empty space.
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The Windows 10 install process will do this. No need to connect it to laptop - let the Win 10 USB do its thing.

All you need to do is install your new drive (and only your new drive) and then plug in your Win 10 USB - make sure that it's (UEFI USB) the first first bootable device. Wait and follow onscreen instructions - when it restarts unplug USB.

I strongly advise you download the chipset/audio/lan drivers etc directly from MSI and your GPU drivers directly from Nvidia/AMD. (install chipset drivers first -and when prompted always choose restart).

I advise you to watch some installing Windows 10 tutorials or read some simple guides to familiarise yourself with the process.

This will help:

 
Okay so let me try and get this right. I put the .iso in the usb stick

I then connect the SSD to the pc and go to bios. Then at bios . Plug in the usb. Maybe restart maybe it ll appear. The vids will show I'm sure.

The uefi is the first bootable in the list. Wouldn't that be the SSD? Maybe I'm wrong. I presume I set usb as ueif first boot and boot from that then go the setup and tell the setup to boot from ssd. Then when on os. Then go net and find the drivers that you said?

Hopefully it goes well :)

I changed the ram . Temp went from 38 and now it's 41-42 mobo temps stayed at 32

I ll watch the video and ant others if I hit any problems thank you very much

Edit. I've found the boot options list. I presume the usb will either appear in the list. Well there's a few. Uefi hard disk. Uefi usb CD/dvd. Usb key. Usb hard disk. Maybe I select usb hard disk then boot from that. Don't worry I ll watch someone do it so I can see :D i just like talking through my thoughts and plans
 
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Bit busy - but will keep an eye out:

alexsalter3d said:
Edit. I've found the boot options list. I presume the usb will either appear in the list. Well there's a few. Uefi hard disk. Uefi usb CD/dvd. Usb key. Usb hard disk. Maybe I select usb hard disk then boot from that. Don't worry I ll watch someone do it so I can see :D i just like talking through my thoughts and plans
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Plec said:
make sure that it's (UEFI USB) the first first bootable device
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Watch the YouTube clip a couple of times - so you're really familiar with what to expect.
 
To make things simpler I've purchased a serial . From the bay. Normally I'm totally against paying for anything if I can get away with it. But Microsoft offer the download and compile onto the usb , I can use the usb in the future for free installs and whatever. Just seems easier to do it the more legal way this time
 
alexsalter3d said:
To make things simpler I've purchased a serial . From the bay. Normally I'm totally against paying for anything if I can get away with it. But Microsoft offer the download and compile onto the usb , I can use the usb in the future for free installs and whatever. Just seems easier to do it the more legal way this time
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You should be using the download tool Clicky to create your Windows USB. (All in that YouTube clip(?))

And depending on the key you purchased - it will only work with one PC.

The 'serial' is the windows key i was referring to - it gets registered with MS and will only be able to be used with that PC, until you move on (unless OEM, but even then you can usually move it to a new machine if you do MS chat.
 
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I've just ran bios idle for last few hours no problems. I went to press power button to turn it off.

It turns off. Then instantly turned back on. But didn't display anything, just screen flashed on and off a few times of nothing then stays black. Keyboard lit and stays lit. And while pc doenst respond to anything. Holding power button or even pressing it does nothing.

This is exactly some of the behaviour it was doing before the new components

Edit. https://postimg.cc/H8mnyJh6

Edit. Something really odd. Just no display . Could smash the power button or hold it. No response. Only switch at back to turn off and then power button to start up again.

It's ran for hours for two evenings.

Then I press like I said earlier the power button at bios to turn off. And it just instantly turns back on and now never behaves like normal by displaying . That must mean something?

I moved the hdmi from gpu to mobo. No improvement

Surely this means, there must be a problem causing this. And it must be either with the PSU, GPU or case?. Maybe a faulty case power button line? I don't know

Edit. It's never done a post beep over the last two days. This evening I did enable post beep noise. And the next time I powered off was this time when it turned right back on
 
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alexsalter3d said:
Surely this means, there must be a problem causing this. And it must be either with the PSU, GPU or case?.
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Probably the case button - hesitant to suggest - but you could try connecting the case reset button as a test (perfectly safe).

Completely disconnected the power on pin connector from the front header and replace this with the reset connector pin. Then use the reset button as you would would the case power button.

Test and report back.
 
Clearly someone out there doesn't want me to have a working pc lol. I mean the issues are identical "nearly". I'm sure of it

Anyway. I found the pins at the bottom right of the board. This I only attempted once this morning while having breakfast.

I did what you said. Took both the pwr swt and rst set out . I placed the reset swt in the power pin place and left the power swt unpinned. Nothing happened when power on.

So I instead placed the power switch pin back in the pin slot. And left this time the reset switch unpinned. First time it powered on and displayed totally correctly. This was the bit I feared. Pressing the power button to turn it off, and then have it instantly turn back on but this be totally unresponsive with no display. Luckily it turned off totally like normal.

Any advise on how to kill that issue forever more?

Thanks I have tomorrow off work. So lots of working on pc and os stuff. Going to watch that video again a lunch if I can
 
*edit* please ignore this post, my error.

The power button cable has 2 pins (+ and -).
Similarly, the reset button cable also has 2 pins (+ and -).

Did you take out both power button pins and replace with both reset button pins?
 
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