Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log

Got my final wall built but will need some help to lift it, especially as it's now soaked up a load of rain!

Cut out the openings for 2* 600mm wide by 2100mm height windows and made the steel wall for the French doors (opening will be 1900 wide by 2100). Before I put the windows in I'll cut the base plate so the windows align horizontally with the door.

In the end bought a 2.3m steel for 140 quid which seemed quite good.


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Managed to get the wall up, it's perfect in the prop bits but on Corner it's about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level. Presume that's not a big deal @dlockers ?

As you can tell I over think it

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Buffman said:
As you can tell I over think it
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Buffman said:
about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level
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I am very much still adapting to the tolerances involved in building/DIY, where 1mm is a reasonably close fit. My background is guitar making where we work in thousandths of an inch and 0.1mm is a visibly glaring gap!

It's a genuine struggle, honestly, I get so stuck on things trying to get them perfect or decide if they'll be ok.
 
Buffman said:
Managed to get the wall up, it's perfect in the prop bits but on Corner it's about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level. Presume that's not a big deal @dlockers ?

As you can tell I over think it

qZ0Hlf8.jpeg
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Definitely not an issue. Looks good man! For the steak I managed to handball it, just have a step ladder to tuck it through
 
dlockers said:
Definitely not an issue. Looks good man! For the steak I managed to handball it, just have a step ladder to tuck it through
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I went for the Oakwood "ladder" way to lift the steel. Felt quite easy so yeah could probably do with just one set of pins or my taller ladder.

Also the build pack 200mm leaves **** all room for the tech screws to the steel from the bottom.

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The rip on the steel I've slightly ballsed up and it sits lower than the steel but guess it doesn't matter

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What do you think for this detail on the breather membrane. Does it matter if I get a 3rd sheet going right to left to cover the gap?

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Yeah it was a shock tbh. I never had j trim, I think that's to hide any cladding rough edges? Not sure.
 
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Just get some 150mm structural screws and screw up from below, its more than enough and will negate the need for hurricane straps. As for the steel, either strap or drill a few holes and screw in from there…… ive used structural screws for my pergula build and its been fine for 4yrs now in some pretty strong winds up here on the welsh mountains.

£14 for 50 structural screws…….




 
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Welshman said:
Just get some 150mm structural screws and screw up from below, its more than enough and will negate the need for hurricane straps. As
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I put the roof beams in today and there's multiple 100mm screws (4 to 6) in each beam. Should be fine.


I think you already replied @dlockers on fb but this is a weird detail I think you told me about.

The gaps make sense to fill with PIR but even the blocking is only 2" thick rather than 4". Suppose if you use 50mm PIR the heat loss would be pretty similar.
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300mm overhang is very close at the front to this tree!

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Looks tidy mate I wouldn't be too fussed about other methods. All I was saying was I did 100mm PIR instead of blocking, which is a fraction under compression from the roof OSB. I didn't bother with blocking as its a small gap anyway that gets smaller once soffits are on; so I'll just extend the roof battens and clad over it. Similarly the inside will be covered in plasterboard, so maybe 1 inch will go without support or something.
 
I was going to say that’s an odd way to build it Buffman, then I realised what you’d done with the roof & side walls.

No doubled header supporting the roof beams? That’s potentially a lot of load being transferred through a 2” bit of timber. It would have been safer to have doubled the header to help transfer the load into the studs. You’ve got different joist spacing, but I kept my roof and walls at the same 16” centres so the joists sit dead above the studs.

The joists at either end also sit 1" inside the header on the rake walls to give something for the ceiling sheeting (probably ply) to sit tight against.

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dlockers said:
This is what I did with mine Buffman, was down earlier so took a pic:


It is put in from above. Annoyingly I forgot to do the other side lol.
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Ah cool, this is what I did (I've got lots of spare 5x2!)
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Inb4 joist hanger ragebait
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Are you putting your electric cabling externally @dlockers ? I've notched my noggins to allow wiring but not really looked into it.
 
No I am running internally - wish I'd notched as I need to **** around above my head now.
 
WillyNelson said:
I was going to say that’s an odd way to build it Buffman, then I realised what you’d done with the roof & side walls.

No doubled header supporting the roof beams? That’s potentially a lot of load being transferred through a 2” bit of timber. It would have been safer to have doubled the header to help transfer the load into the studs. You’ve got different joist spacing, but I kept my roof and walls at the same 16” centres so the joists sit dead above the studs.

The joists at either end also sit 1" inside the header on the rake walls to give something for the ceiling sheeting (probably ply) to sit tight against.

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Ah yeah I wasn't sure on a double header/requirements. I did consider it but too late now.

It's not indicated as a requirement on the build pack I'm using and haven't seen too many with a double header.
 
dlockers said:
No I am running internally - wish I'd notched as I need to **** around above my head now.
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Ive not notched anything other than this so not sure if Im missing anything? For future electrics install

Ive not actually been "allowed" electrics yet by the mrs as this project is taking me far too long! My main job is meant to be 60m2 of Indian sandstone patio during my time off :D
 
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Buffman said:
Ive not notched anything other than this so not sure if Im missing anything? For future electrics install

Ive not actually been "allowed" electrics yet by the mrs as this project is taking me far too long! My main job is meant to be 60m2 of Indian sandstone patio during my time off :D
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Might be worth notching your roof beams so you can drag a cable across the full width - but you're into really nice to have stuff at that point lol.
 
Buffman said:
Ah cool, this is what I did (I've got lots of spare 5x2!)
aosmjo8.jpeg


Inb4 joist hanger ragebait
JmGJvLr.jpeg



Ll32i8Y.jpeg


Are you putting your electric cabling externally @dlockers ? I've notched my noggins to allow wiring but not really looked into it.
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isnt there going to be irregularities in the roof now were those upside down joist hangers sit. surely the osb wont sit flat due to the metal and nails standing proud of the joists.
 
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