I did but it seemed a bit of a waste of time tbh. You can barely squash it in anyways.Got the 3rd wall up today and fixed the other side wall but that's it.
Did you fill your steel with insulation @dlockers ? Is it necessary?
I did but it seemed a bit of a waste of time tbh. You can barely squash it in anyways.Got the 3rd wall up today and fixed the other side wall but that's it.
Did you fill your steel with insulation @dlockers ? Is it necessary?
As you can tell I over think it
I am very much still adapting to the tolerances involved in building/DIY, where 1mm is a reasonably close fit. My background is guitar making where we work in thousandths of an inch and 0.1mm is a visibly glaring gap!about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level
Definitely not an issue. Looks good man! For the steak I managed to handball it, just have a step ladder to tuck it throughManaged to get the wall up, it's perfect in the prop bits but on Corner it's about 3mm out of plumb on a 1.8m level. Presume that's not a big deal @dlockers ?
As you can tell I over think it
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I went for the Oakwood "ladder" way to lift the steel. Felt quite easy so yeah could probably do with just one set of pins or my taller ladder.Definitely not an issue. Looks good man! For the steak I managed to handball it, just have a step ladder to tuck it through
I put the roof beams in today and there's multiple 100mm screws (4 to 6) in each beam. Should be fine.Just get some 150mm structural screws and screw up from below, its more than enough and will negate the need for hurricane straps. As
This is what I did with mine Buffman, was down earlier so took a pic:
It is put in from above. Annoyingly I forgot to do the other side lol.
Ah yeah I wasn't sure on a double header/requirements. I did consider it but too late now.I was going to say that’s an odd way to build it Buffman, then I realised what you’d done with the roof & side walls.
No doubled header supporting the roof beams? That’s potentially a lot of load being transferred through a 2” bit of timber. It would have been safer to have doubled the header to help transfer the load into the studs. You’ve got different joist spacing, but I kept my roof and walls at the same 16” centres so the joists sit dead above the studs.
The joists at either end also sit 1" inside the header on the rake walls to give something for the ceiling sheeting (probably ply) to sit tight against.
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No I am running internally - wish I'd notched as I need to **** around above my head now.
Might be worth notching your roof beams so you can drag a cable across the full width - but you're into really nice to have stuff at that point lol.Ive not notched anything other than this so not sure if Im missing anything? For future electrics install
Ive not actually been "allowed" electrics yet by the mrs as this project is taking me far too long! My main job is meant to be 60m2 of Indian sandstone patio during my time off![]()
isnt there going to be irregularities in the roof now were those upside down joist hangers sit. surely the osb wont sit flat due to the metal and nails standing proud of the joists.Ah cool, this is what I did (I've got lots of spare 5x2!)
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Inb4 joist hanger ragebait
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Are you putting your electric cabling externally @dlockers ? I've notched my noggins to allow wiring but not really looked into it.