Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log

Welshman said:
isnt there going to be irregularities in the roof now were those upside down joist hangers sit. surely the osb wont sit flat due to the metal and nails standing proud of the joists.
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It'll be about 1mm. There's 37.5mm of fall per m so should be fine. Flat rubber roofs can hold /pond water anyways.

Given it's rough Sawn timber it's probably got more than 1mm of deviation across the circa 4m span
 
Got my doors and windows.

Got to do a bit of googling to do on how to fit them! Paranoid they're going to break also.

Did you back calculate how far forward to put them so the corner pieces of the cladding work with it @dlockers? (Ie save cutting)

Also @dlockers do you know if it still needs cross braces until the roof OSB is on or is it fine once the roof is tied? Feels damn solid now.

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I redid the heal and toe on one of my bifold today and got some more noggins in! Sick of PIR now lol. I need to swap my 13cm coach bolts for 10.

I put the doors as far forward as I could as the cladding etc will easily eat them up. No precise maths.

All bracing can come off now, it's basically done once the roof and walls are osb'ed.
 
dlockers said:
I redid the heal and toe on one of my bifold today and got some more noggins in! Sick of PIR now lol. I need to swap my 13cm coach bolts for 10.

I put the doors as far forward as I could as the cladding etc will easily eat them up. No precise maths.

All bracing can come off now, it's basically done once the roof and walls are osb'ed.
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Ah cool.

For the bracing I haven't yet fitted all my roof OSB so do I need to wait? Was going to fit my doors /windows tomorrow before the rest of roof as the weather isn't great
 
WillyNelson said:
I feel that. It's such horrible stuff to cut. Just ordered another 3 sheets of 100mm to insulate the roof.

I've just been using a normal hand saw to cut them and the amount of 'snow' it makes is unreal and awful to have blowing about the garden. Kind of need a long thin knife to do the job instead.
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Bread knife
 
WillyNelson said:
Excellent shout. Might have to buy a cheapo one next time I’m in Sainsbury’s.

Next conundrum is solving that fine line between cutting the PIR sections slightly too small so they don’t hold between the ceiling joists, and slightly too large that I have to wallop them in with a woodblock and mallet!
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If the roof is at 400 gap then tbh the rounding error during cutting generally gives you a nice halfway house. I did my entire roof today pretty painlessly - only 2 or 3 out of 30+ that gave me a headache. Cutting a 2.4m sheet into 400mm blocks means you always end up some tight/some lose, but generally you get away with it every time.
 
dlockers said:
If the roof is at 400 gap then tbh the rounding error during cutting generally gives you a nice halfway house. I did my entire roof today pretty painlessly - only 2 or 3 out of 30+ that gave me a headache. Cutting a 2.4m sheet into 400mm blocks means you always end up some tight/some lose, but generally you get away with it every time.
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You’re obviously more accurate with a saw/breadknife than me :D
 
For cutting PIR I used a jigsaw with a bradknife serrated type blade. Made a nice tidy job of it without hardly any tearing or dust from it.

To get PIR to fit nicely, you can use Gapotape. You only have to get the cuts sort of accurate, then the memory foam compresses. Also improves the vapour barrier. It is however and additional cost and takes more time...
 
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