Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log

Buffman said:
Not yet..... Altho I am going to go slightly over the permitted development (circa 2.6m in height) so here's hoping even if there are issues id have planning accepted (over 1m off all boundaries). Gonna have 200mm extra headroom over the build pack and doors I've ordered are 2100 high.

I realise fitting the back wall and overhang and gutter is going to be a pain in ass!
Click to expand...
Extra 10 on doors is worth it. The 1950 ones I've got are noticeably low. Not ducking height but not far off lol.

Buffman said:
@dlockers did you cut your boards flush with your frame or allow a small overhang to stop the OSB clashing with the wall?

Looks like to stop a clash would need a 2cm or so offset if that makes sense. But realise with walls over 2.3m and 100mm floor beams the 2.4m OSB probably won't hit it anyway.
Click to expand...
Not sure I fully get you - my OSB is flush with top of wall, and extends about 5 inches passed the end so it overlaps the bearer/metal washer.
 
dlockers said:
Extra 10 on doors is worth it. The 1950 ones I've got are noticeably low. Not ducking height but not far off lol.


Not sure I fully get you - my OSB is flush with top of wall, and extends about 5 inches passed the end so it overlaps the bearer/metal washer.
Click to expand...
Yeah I thought generally the whole idea seems a bit low for internal head height to be honest. I guess it's so the people selling them don't need to block themselves with planning but if doing DIY can either sort the planning or take the risk.


I'm talking about this overhang of the floor sorry, how much past the floor is yours? (if at all?)
SE7LgzK.jpeg
 
Buffman said:
Yeah I thought generally the whole idea seems a bit low for internal head height to be honest. I guess it's so the people selling them don't need to block themselves with planning but if doing DIY can either sort the planning or take the risk.


I'm talking about this overhang of the floor sorry, how much past the floor is yours? (if at all?)
SE7LgzK.jpeg
Click to expand...
Ah gotcha! No more than maybe 1.5-2cm max. Didn't want the wall being too supported by floating 22mm lol.
 
Made part of the wall and need to put horizontal battens on then lift it. It says to screw the osb3 to the wall every 300mm which seems crazy amounts of fixings (especially as the battens will further tie it down so I've done far less

I was thinking for horizontal to only put 4 or so battens to support this. Seems it only needs every 1200mm anyways

www.roofingsheetsbyrhino.com

Cheap Packs of 10 x 8ft & 10ft Metallic Black Kronos Prisma Finish Low Profile Roofing Sheets

Packs of 10 x sheets in 8ft (2.44m) and 10ft (3.05m) lengths. Metallic Black Kronos prisma finish galvanised steel low profile Roofing Sheets, 0.6mm heavy gauge, 1m cover width once fitted (Individual…
www.roofingsheetsbyrhino.com www.roofingsheetsbyrhino.com

I've split the long wall into a 4.8m length and 2.3 ish length.

oAlVxHg.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Did you think about putting fence panels along back and right hand side ? When shed is up I can imagine it's gonna be a pain to trim those hedges.
 
Looks good - makes sense to split the wall. I've gone for similar cladding and from what I can read they recommend just doing horizontal. I think I prefer lining it up and doing vertical tho, to stop any water. Did you overlay the Tyvek correctly? A bloke posted the other day and he'd do it to feed water into the structure lol.
 
oggiet said:
Did you think about putting fence panels along back and right hand side ? When shed is up I can imagine it's gonna be a pain to trim those hedges.
Click to expand...


They go right along garden so no
dlockers said:
Looks good - makes sense to split the wall. I've gone for similar cladding and from what I can read they recommend just doing horizontal. I think I prefer lining it up and doing vertical tho, to stop any water. Did you overlay the Tyvek correctly? A bloke posted the other day and he'd do it to feed water into the structure lol.
Click to expand...


They say just about horizontal for a couple I've seen but surely that risks standing water behind it? Can't be any risk if you can fit vertical.

When you say correctly what do you mean? I did bottom first then a significant overlap (as its longer than I require.)hopefully that's right :D
 
Last edited:
Buffman said:
They say just about horizontal for a couple I've seen but surely that risks standing water behind it? Can't be any risk if you can fit vertical.

When you say correctly what do you mean? I did bottom first then a significant overlap (as its longer than I require.)hopefully that's right :D
Click to expand...
Yeah I am with you - going to do it vertically and line up with the metal fixings.

Correctly - as in, when its stood up, the overlap means rain will drip from top to bottom and not go from top sheet, behind the sheet beneath it etc. Imagine cladding but clad upside down :cry:. I think it is an easier mistake to make when it is on the floor!!
 
dlockers said:
Yeah I am with you - going to do it vertically and line up with the metal fixings.

Correctly - as in, when its stood up, the overlap means rain will drip from top to bottom and not go from top sheet, behind the sheet beneath it etc. Imagine cladding but clad upside down :cry:. I think it is an easier mistake to make when it is on the floor!!
Click to expand...
Oh aye done the bottom sheet first so should be sound (at least I hope I have!!)
 
Buffman said:
Made part of the wall and need to put horizontal battens on then lift it. It says to screw the osb3 to the wall every 300mm which seems crazy amounts of fixings (especially as the battens will further tie it down so I've done far less
Click to expand...
I nailed the osb for the walls, roughly every 8" along each edge and down the studs. One and a half 1Kg bags of nails all hand driven. It was almost as bad as those godawful joist hangers, but faster (and cheaper) than screwing.

I think the vertical/horizontal battening is an issue of air flow. If you have horizontal battens and your cladding sits flush to it then you don't get any air flow up the full vertical face of the Tyvek to help dissipate moisture. I'm cladding my back & sides with corrugated sheeting so will have airflow up the corrugations, so only need horizontal battens. But my front cladding is vertical larch T&G so I'll have to run vertical batten against the face of the wall, then cross batten horizontally so I can clad vertically.
 
Last edited:
If you want to go vertical you will need to counter batten to allow a vertical gap (to allow any water to run down the tyvek without hitting a batten.
 
Glad I made this wall in half's, needed the wife to help me lift the 4.8m section

Couple qs mainly for @dlockers :

I am slightly out of plumb on the outside of the built corner but the inside is Bob on. Presume that is due to something wrong with timber? It's inside the level bubble so preshme it's fine.

I made a mistake with the OSB in that corner so had to make a slither end on the back wall rather than tie it to the adjacent wall

Also a dumb question..... Is much of an overhang required at the back (presumably mainly so it passes your cladding?) and do you even need a gutter if you have an EPDM roof?

oJAgMJv.jpeg


sGDVY26.jpeg


Going to be a bit tight here

86hEnw6.jpeg



z1s4d39.jpeg
 
Looks good! I wouldn't worry about being out of plumb unless it is seismic. On the rear I wouldn't leave any less than 15cm, and I'd definitely use guttering to move the water away from the main structure. It sheets off but then hits the floor and splashes up which is what erodes the ground. A gutter delivers the rain gently to the floor
 
dlockers said:
Looks good! I wouldn't worry about being out of plumb unless it is seismic. On the rear I wouldn't leave any less than 15cm, and I'd definitely use guttering to move the water away from the main structure. It sheets off but then hits the floor and splashes up which is what erodes the ground. A gutter delivers the rain gently to the floor
Click to expand...
Ah yeah that makes sense about the gutter thanks.

Why do you think 15cm? I was thinking the 50mm to overcome the battens plus say 50mm which will be more than the sheet cladding. Then whatever a gutter is.

Also think I've ****** my hands up/given myself carpal tunnel, hopefully it goes away when I have a break!
 
Buffman said:
Ah yeah that makes sense about the gutter thanks.

Why do you think 15cm? I was thinking the 50mm to overcome the battens plus say 50mm which will be more than the sheet cladding. Then whatever a gutter is.

Also think I've ****** my hands up/given myself carpal tunnel, hopefully it goes away when I have a break!
Click to expand...
Ah man that sucks. I have CTS pretty severe - I really need to get it sorted. It is pretty miserable at night.

I went 15cm because that's what length soffits come in lol. The rear has a slate batten extension with the R4R kit anyway; so you may be OK with 10cm.
 
Realise I put the side wall all the way to the front rather than leave room for the front to "cut in place. Hopefully a packer on the top will solve that :X
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom