Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log

Soldato
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Ah cool. I think I'll just tape around the perimeter of the boards then (assuming that works and the foil taping doesn't need to be continuous?) and a little glue on the timber. I want to make sure it doesn't squeak!

To be fair standing on the insulation it is quite squeaky.
I think you need a continuous barrier between the 22mm and the "sub floor". It is how I have always done it - e.g:

0bG7OSk_d.webp
 
Soldato
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I think you need a continuous barrier between the 22mm and the "sub floor". It is how I have always done it - e.g:

0bG7OSk_d.webp
Ah that scuppers my plans..... Just being devil's advocate but is that continuous if it doesn't go under your kitchen units?

If I sack off the glueing I could just use upside down tyvek air membrane?
 
Soldato
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Ah that scuppers my plans..... Just being devil's advocate but is that continuous if it doesn't go under your kitchen units?

If I sack off the glueing I could just use upside down tyvek air membrane?
Yeah it is a bit sketch in kitchen because I had to lay the PIR after the kitchen refurb to keep the family ticking over.

Yeah upside down membrane works fine too. I just used the cheap Screwfix vapour barrier in the end.
 
Soldato
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This was my floor before the OSB deck went on. 100mm PIR and fully taped joins. Deck was fixed with adhesive along the joist lines and screwed down.

53859632835_b4fe234525_c.jpg


And after the OSB deck went down

53859582494_b8f6e868af_c.jpg
 
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Soldato
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I've gone for this. It was peeing it down all day and it was truly awful to work in.

The base is retaining a lot of water which is slightly worrying too... I think the kronospan protect is fine out in the rain.

I also realise I forgot to check if I need to slice down the long lengths so I don't have a slither at the end but I think I'll be OK.


Also some of my timbers I moved to a different section and some of the non treated CLS has mould in it! (tarpaulin must have leaked).presumably its sound to use I'll just spray some anti mould stuff on it?

DrHnhoW.jpeg

E1crHM8.jpeg
 
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Associate
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Well done Buffman! I will be following where possible yours and dlockers threads. I am yet to start mine. I've been debating a concrete slab myself. Not sure which way I'm going to go.
When I tell people I'm going to self build, the question that always comes back is, "oh really, wow, will it be loads cheaper than an of the shelf version then?" My response...errr... dunno. lol
I saw some insulated buildings for 5-10k, but some of these "insulated" buildings are 75mm total wall thickness, which seems meh.

What sort of budget are you realistically aiming to come in under?

I got a quote a couple of years ago from the same company selling these packs and it was circa £42.5k for a 5x4 metre garden room with an integrated shed to one side :eek:
 
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Soldato
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Well I thought it would be the front/back primarily taking the roof. Regardless I have a lot of rods to a decent depth.

I am ****** after it, and sunburnt!

Did you order something similar to the below from rubber4roofs ie a full "kit"?
IQHNyji.png
Your roof is costing twice as much as mine and im using box metal steel roof, 7m x 3m…….
 
Soldato
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Ah nice might try it with my 7m wall... Is there a video on how you're meant to single lift it?
I think in his solo build video he did. TBH the main thing is being ready to secure it - so have an offcut of 4x2 with 45s cut into each end, and the screw mostly home in the right face of it lol.

It didn't move nearly as much as I expected - I don't think I toenailed it or anything, but I believe that is the "official" way, i.e. whack a nail through it so it can "pivot" and not fall backwards.


1:10 but obviously half the size!

If you think it's too much, you could "chop" the fall and do it in two halves.
 
Soldato
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I think in his solo build video he did. TBH the main thing is being ready to secure it - so have an offcut of 4x2 with 45s cut into each end, and the screw mostly home in the right face of it lol.

It didn't move nearly as much as I expected - I don't think I toenailed it or anything, but I believe that is the "official" way, i.e. whack a nail through it so it can "pivot" and not fall backwards.


1:10 but obviously half the size!

If you think it's too much, you could "chop" the fall and do it in two halves.


Funnily enough I just watched that! That's the main miniseries I'm going to watch.

I'll try it on the 7metres, got a few hop ups I can put under it.

Where I've got my 4.8m lengths on the header wall did you add a double timber to support it?
 
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Soldato
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Funnily enough I just watched that! That's the main miniseries I'm going to watch.

I'll try it on the 7metres, got a few hop ups I can put under it.

Where I've got my 4.8m lengths on the header wall did you add a double timber to support it?
No just a single header. If I had done 600 spacing I may have.
 
Soldato
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Any issues from the neighbors? :D

Not yet..... Altho I am going to go slightly over the permitted development (circa 2.6m in height) so here's hoping even if there are issues id have planning accepted (over 1m off all boundaries). Gonna have 200mm extra headroom over the build pack and doors I've ordered are 2100 high.

I realise fitting the back wall and overhang and gutter is going to be a pain in ass!
 
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Soldato
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@dlockers did you cut your boards flush with your frame or allow a small overhang to stop the OSB clashing with the wall?

Looks like to stop a clash would need a 2cm or so offset if that makes sense. But realise with walls over 2.3m and 100mm floor beams the 2.4m OSB probably won't hit it anyway.
 
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