1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

LuckyBenski said:
I could be wrong but I think you're meant to close the valves for summer. Might have a knock on effect if that is your "always on" bypass radiator.

But the boiler shouldn't be running the pump in summer so I'd not expect it to suck heat away!
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Hyburnate said:
Close the return valve :)
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(y) cheers chaps. I've had "damp" towels for my entire life. Can't wait for a functioning heater :D

Edit: my bypass radiator is the WC downstairs - no TRVs at all.

200sols said:
Turn the power off before you start.
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:cry: reminds me when my late father asked my bro if he was SURE the oven was isolated. It wasn't. He also touched the electric fence around the pond not convinced it was working - surprising how much a bunch of D cells can hurt you :cry:

Buffman said:
No more ply boards they are a cement based subfloor, I've not used them though
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(y).
 
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If you want to keep the thickness of the subfloor down, you could use 12mm ply and overboard with 6mm Hardieboard or NMP. I've done it previously and the floor was solid on 400mm centres, no movement/cracking of the tile. Might need noggins depending on if you have flex in the existing joists.
 
I don't want to add to your troubles but be aware of how narrow the smaller end is on those baths. Internal measurement is 522mm at that end.

A friend of mine fitted a similar bath a couple of years ago and his wife complained endlessly about how narrow it was and she is a smaller than average sized lady.

About 4-5 months later he took it back out and swopped it for a normal straight type bath.
 
Orifice said:
If you want to keep the thickness of the subfloor down, you could use 12mm ply and overboard with 6mm Hardieboard or NMP. I've done it previously and the floor was solid on 400mm centres, no movement/cracking of the tile. Might need noggins depending on if you have flex in the existing joists.
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Good idea - I think I need to measure height to carpet. Maybe I do 18mm rather than 12.

964rs said:
I don't want to add to your troubles but be aware of how narrow the smaller end is on those baths. Internal measurement is 522mm at that end.

A friend of mine fitted a similar bath a couple of years ago and his wife complained endlessly about how narrow it was and she is a smaller than average sized lady.

About 4-5 months later he took it back out and swopped it for a normal straight type bath.
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The one I've ordered is 800 at the widest and tapers to 700, so luckily no issue.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
I honestly think hybrid towel rails are designed for electricity in winter. Towels dry fine for most of the year, but if you don't leave your heating on all day they definitely don't dry in winter
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No they're designed for heating in summer when you don't have central heating on.

Saying that I've got one on a stainless steel towel radiator and never use the electric element.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
I honestly think hybrid towel rails are designed for electricity in winter. Towels dry fine for most of the year, but if you don't leave your heating on all day they definitely don't dry in winter
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Either use case works but as Buffman said, normally the heating is on in the winter. I'll probably set a little HA script that determines if heating hasn't been on, blitz it for 30 mins ready for morning shower. In fact if I had continued my purchase of the smart shower I could have configured it to come on if the shower had been used!
 
Buffman said:
No they're designed for heating in summer when you don't have central heating on.

Saying that I've got one on a stainless steel towel radiator and never use the electric element.
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They might be designed that way, but I know for a fact, not having a hybrid radiator thing, that the only time of year that our towels don't dry properly is when it's cold outside.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
Do you leave it on when you leave the house in the morning? I guess if you WFH and keep it heated all the time it won't matter. Our heating turns off around 8 AM when we've both left for work, so our towels haven't had a chance to dry
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My towels aren't outrageously "damp" at the minute with just an overnight air dry, so anything the towel rad can do in normal hours of heating will be more than welcomed. Anyways, heating comes on at 6am for wake up and gentle increases house temp. Someone WFH everyday atm so heating is on from 0600-2100 set to 18 degrees with 50 degree flow temp.
 
Right, all sorted with my dodgy building merchant :)

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Comes Friday - this gives me enough to insulate the external walls in a mix of PIR and plasterboard. The plasterboard is away from the wet areas.

I've got enough tileboard in 6mm to do the floor in 18mm chipboard and then overboard.

And then enough 12mm tileboard to clad the false/stud wall and shower area. I will probably have to skim a small amount or just tile the lot; TBC on whatever is easiest. 12mm probably overkill for the one wall as its just the shower wall that is block built, but CBA to change now. The architrave has some depth already.

I just need to order the framing timber, 18mm boards, the niche former, the tiles, and some sparky bits. The radiator stuff might hold me up a bit but I might drain the system and cap it off for the plumber.

Edit: and 2x moisture resistant boards to overboard the ceiling. Should I do the fancy recessed lights around the perimeter :D? Maybe too much for my skills and to work around the hip of the roof...
 
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Further Qs please gents...

Is this OK to go between the joists?

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm | Wickes.co.uk

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm
www.wickes.co.uk www.wickes.co.uk
They do the "32" version which is better but a lot more expensive as I'd need 3 packs.

And what lights would people suggest in a bathroom? I'd like them dimmable - so I am thinking Hue/smart lights?

And what lights work in a niche?
 
We have our bathroom lights and niche lights on separate switches. This way if we want dim light while in the bath or at night we use the niche lights, otherwise we use the main lights.
 
Kohaashi said:
We have our bathroom lights and niche lights on separate switches. This way if we want dim light while in the bath or at night we use the niche lights, otherwise we use the main lights.
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Thanks - you wouldn't know what niche lights they are, do you? I can't seem to find any website that has them listed out simply enough for me to follow :cry:

For lights as well, I am tempted to just get the Hue circle light rather than downers but I'm not sure it is suitable for bathrooms.

If I were to get downers, what's the default choice chaps?
 
dlockers said:
Further Qs please gents...

Is this OK to go between the joists?

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm | Wickes.co.uk

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm
www.wickes.co.uk www.wickes.co.uk
They do the "32" version which is better but a lot more expensive as I'd need 3 packs.

And what lights would people suggest in a bathroom? I'd like them dimmable - so I am thinking Hue/smart lights?

And what lights work in a niche?
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You can use down lights - but the last few I’ve done, I’ve just used COB strip lights - you can buy profiles that sit within the niche too. Quite effective.

With lights - if you want to keep it really future proof - look at kinetic switches. Effectively you run a permanent live to the transformer and your lights are connected to that.
 
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