1930s Semi Refurb - Part 1 of ... (Edition: Bathroom Relocation)

I think Hue GU10 are too big for the bathroom fittings as the bulbs are bigger than normal GU10 bulbs so the covers don’t fit.

Not tried it myself so I could be mistaken.
 
dlockers said:
For sure but I have no idea what lights are available for such an install.
Click to expand...
I would think sealed units in such a space not GU10s.

Schluter do a ready to go unit.


Niche - Schlüter-Systems

Wall niches not only are convenient, but also turn into true eye-catchers with integrated illumination. Be inspired.
www.schlueter-systems.com
 
Last edited:
Thanks man - will take a look. Possibly too spenny for me - so may stick to basic former.

----------

I'm going to lift boards and get first fix plumbing done tomorrow. Is 22mm enough to drive the bath, basin taps and toilet? The shower I'll just do two 15mm chases in the wall.

Edit:
vkvLtao.png


So drop 22mm from the loft, down the hip of the roof. Then T into 15mm, which I can then T into the toilet and the vanity. Hot would just go straight to the vanity.
 
Last edited:
dlockers said:
Further Qs please gents...

Is this OK to go between the joists?

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm | Wickes.co.uk

Rockwool 37 Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation Slab - 100 x 455 x 1200mm
www.wickes.co.uk www.wickes.co.uk
They do the "32" version which is better but a lot more expensive as I'd need 3 packs.

And what lights would people suggest in a bathroom? I'd like them dimmable - so I am thinking Hue/smart lights?

And what lights work in a niche?
Click to expand...
Is this for the cieling?
 
dirtychinchilla said:
I would definitely add an electric element to my towel rail if they weren't £60 aka gas wasn't so cheap. Our heating used to come on in the morning to take the edge off, but it was off by the time we'd both showered. Therefore, the towels weren't drying. I ended up doing a sort of artificial bit of heating around 9 AM bringing upstairs to 21C just to get the towels dry! Soggy winter towels are disgusting.
Click to expand...
I don't even have a towel radiator and my towels are bone dry when I use it and sometimes I have two showers a day!
 
danlightbulb said:
Yeah you wouldn't be using all three at the same time. Only gonna make much difference if you have 22mm coming all the way from the source though.
Click to expand...
I thought that until I saw the obvious pattern: Start bath running, sit on toilet. Finish up, flush, start washing hands - all 3 supplies in use. My bath tap drops right off for a little bit when I do this as we've poor flow.
jonneymendoza said:
O OK. You don't need to insulate the 1st floor really. That's what I have heard of and researched.

It's mainly the ground floor that needs insulation
Click to expand...
Some of his 1st floor overhangs the porch so it's effectively an exterior wall.
 
Chaps,

May have dropped a clanger here. The insulated plasterboard I've bought is 38mm (25+12.5).

I'm not sure the back has a vapour barrier - at least, it isn't silver. I was planning on just glueing and whacking a few screws in.

Do I need to switch product or batten out?

Edit: false alarm it has a barrier!
 
Last edited:
dlockers said:
Chaps,

May have dropped a clanger here. The insulated plasterboard I've bought is 38mm (25+12.5).

I'm not sure the back has a vapour barrier - at least, it isn't silver. I was planning on just glueing and whacking a few screws in.

Do I need to switch product or batten out?

Edit: false alarm it has a barrier!
Click to expand...
I am debating putting some insulation plasterboard on the detached side of my house but I don't think I have enough room for it due to the staircase..
 
Wickes let me down unfortunately (boards, framing timber, nails). Tool Station also let me down on plasterboard adhesive, so I had to spend 30 mins driving out - so progress was always going to be slow, but that gave me an excuse to go even slower :D

Rehung door/new handle finished off yesterday:
LR6knM4.jpg


Lifted the key boards up. This wall will be insulated. I removed the wiring, it was those dodgy bakerlite spur. They didn't even bother extending the ring. All gone now!
NFOXW4C.jpg


Then I overboarded the ceiling in moisture resistant plasterboard. I had to cut it into 2 annoyingly --- the weight was too much for a one man lift.

For the hip bit, I used the track saw and scribed 5mm lines every inch so I could get a decent fold. Hopefully I can get away without skimming it but we'll see - I just don't have the skill to skim, so I plan to tape and fill.
u0aMQfA.jpg


The room now doubles as a brothel:
6vIyD9h.jpg


I actually much prefer the light to downers :cry: and it was only two screws so can always come down.

-------------

Tomorrow I will...

* board the window wall
* insulate the outside wall
* hide some electrics outside of all of the zones
* anticipate the vanity and first fix the mirror (also needs power)
* drop the 22mm from the attic (x2)

I am then "stuck" until I get my floorboards and bathroom gear (next Friday now). I will then first fix the toilet and drill the 90mm hole; first fix the towel heater, and then book the plumber in I think. The main job I need him to do is plumb the radiator - I want copper out of the wall I think, and fit a ceiling/roof extraction system.

When I chase the 22mm into the attic, I am going to overboard the wall with tileboard (12mm hardibacker). Can I simply chase it ~22mm deep and then cover? Like this?
FgCaBvd.png


Or do I need to fill the chase in? I have bought pipeclips, but I might fill my boots and run all my gear into the attic and cover with tileboard (ethernet, power etc).
 
LuckyBenski said:
I thought that until I saw the obvious pattern: Start bath running, sit on toilet. Finish up, flush, start washing hands - all 3 supplies in use. My bath tap drops right off for a little bit when I do this as we've poor flow.

Some of his 1st floor overhangs the porch so it's effectively an exterior wall.
Click to expand...
If you have the flow rate its not a problem though, I frequently use the toilet then wash my hands while the shower is running and it has zero effect on the shower...plus all my pipe runs are 15mm from the cylinder(less standing water and heat loss which is a plus).
 
gingergundog said:
If you have the flow rate its not a problem though, I frequently use the toilet then wash my hands while the shower is running and it has zero effect on the shower...plus all my pipe runs are 15mm from the cylinder(less standing water and heat loss which is a plus).
Click to expand...
Oh snap....I hadn't considered that. My flow and pressure is great, so maybe I should downsize to 15mm!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom