1930s Semi Refurb - Part 11 of ... (Summer House)

I would have also put in a double top plate, especially on joins in timber and at the corners……..it looks like a single top plate to back and sides of the building. A double top plate would over lap and toe the back structure into the sides for adding strength to the structure. Can also see that although dwarf walls have been built to hold the top plate above the door, but the havent been tied to the other walls at the top…..
 
At the moment I've got them pin nailed (left angle, right angle - repeat underneath). I'll be adding either upside down joist hangars or grabbing some hurricane ties.
 
Welshman said:
Screw them into the top plate and the stud below, each joist should sit above a stud. So the weight of the joist gets taken all the way to the floor….
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I wouldn't have thought driving a screw into a 38x89mm stud that already has 3 nails in is going to end well tbh.
 
danlightbulb said:
Never used screws that big. Do you need to pilot hole? Will a standard impact driver get them in?
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Ive seen it down with standard impact drill…..i watch a youtube chanel called perkins builder brothers. They build timber framed houses in the US. They give lots of pro tips during their filming and how you can use different ways to build structure and still pass code.
 
danlightbulb said:
Sorry you've lost me now I'm afraid. How can you go vertically up through a vertical stud?

Think I'll need a picture.
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You angle it upwards you don't got vertically up…….you can come downwards, but that can loosen the stud from the frame below, thats why you go from underneath and pull it down onto the top plate and stud

 
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lol I am not tying down 4.2m 5x2 with 250mm structural screws to 38mm CLS. Joist hangers upside down/hurricane ties will be more than fine. Perkins are great though, their latest video looks awesome.
 
Welshman said:
You angle it upwards you don't got vertically up…….you can come downwards, but that can loosen the stud from the frame below, thats why you go from underneath and pull it down onto the top plate and stud

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At that angle, there's at least 8" of screw there before it's even breached the double top plate let alone got into the roof joist?
 
Can't add anything technical but to say that I used some 250mm screws into sleepers last year.
The next day I could hardly move from all the bracing I was doing with my back to get enough torque to drive them in.

I would get an impact gun tbh if doing that again (in fact I did, I bought a new twinpack from Screwfix when they had the kit with the higher torque gun on offer)
 
Basically Welsh Man is talking out of his arse. No sane human would drive crazy expensive screws through a stud, double top plate and into a roof joist - when you can buy a joist hangar and some twist nails for under £1.50 and end up with a far better job.
 
dlockers said:
Basically Welsh Man is talking out of his arse. No sane human would drive crazy expensive screws through a stud, double top plate and into a roof joist - when you can buy a joist hangar and some twist nails for under £1.50 and end up with a far better job.
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Says the guy building a garden structure with a single top plate……but each to their own. I know which way im going and its not the diy dlockers route
 
This is also another way, so you go through the DOUBLE top plate and joist, but obviously im talking out of my arse and not getting any of these pictures from timber framing websites.

 
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