5D MKIII or 7D??? Please advise

Do not read the manual! Real men do not read manuals ;)

Although, coming from a 40D, you should be at home with most settings within an hour or two.

The youtube channel I posted earlier is VERY good and you should sub to it as the guy goes through, in detail, all the good bits of the 5D III.

Edit*
I absolutely love this camera for landscapes, SO sharp and SO much resolving power!

http://robbiekhan.co.uk/root/temp/5D3_0197.jpg
 
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jonneymendoza said:
like i did :D but admitadly for an extra £169 for piece of mind via DR at a total price of 2169
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Pah, £2535 is where it's at. My mind is at peace :D

--- Z --- said:
First impression OMG WOW, its a dream to hold, the L lens is fantastic. Charging the battery atm so i can actually use it for longer than 5 mins (litterally).

Will get pics up tomorrow, then teh fun begins, actual shots and asking you lot how the dam settings all work :)
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I can picture it now:

Z - Take picture, take picture.......... battery flat
* Charge for 5mins * NEED MOAR PICS
Z - Take picture, take picture.......... battery flat
* Repeat *

mrk said:
The youtube channel I posted earlier is VERY good and you should sub to it as the guy goes through, in detail, all the good bits of the 5D III.

Edit*
I absolutely love this camera for landscapes, SO sharp and SO much resolving power!
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Will do

[Barack]Not bad[/Barack]

Tripod I presume @ f4 & ISO 50??
 
I was looking at selling some gear to purchase a 35L, when I sort of realised that if I sold the 1Ds2 as well I could easily make room for a 5D3... A 35L would have to wait a little longer... Must resist!
 
olv said:
It's 1/1000 so guessing hand held.
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mrk said:
I hand hold everything above 1/15 :-P
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Well bend me over and roger my dodger, that's impressive!

I mainly hand hold but am investing in a Redsnapper tripod and cokin P holder w/ Hitech ND Grads and a 10 stopper ND, all ready for Thailand and Shanghai trips later this year/early next.

This is getting expensive and it seems my photography hobby is back in full swing :(:(:D

Rojin said:
I was looking at selling some gear to purchase a 35L, when I sort of realised that if I sold the 1Ds2 as well I could easily make room for a 5D3... A 35L would have to wait a little longer... Must resist!
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Why resist, you know it's futile!

Your photos are excellent as is, just image how much better they'll be a lovely new 5D3 and 35L.
 
Rojin said:
I was looking at selling some gear to purchase a 35L, when I sort of realised that if I sold the 1Ds2 as well I could easily make room for a 5D3... A 35L would have to wait a little longer... Must resist!
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You are only an hour away ;)

Actually driving pass there this Friday and Sunday to and from a wedding in Bedfordshire.

EDIT - wait, I am actually driving to other way through Worcester, its an hour quicker!
 
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Nexus said:
I believe ISO 50 is a feature pretty much only found on the high-end full frame Canons. Whether thats because its down to the sensor, or purely just that its deemed as being a feature that adds to its selling value, thus they haven't allowed it on other models I don't know.
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I didn't think ISO 50's are real ISO, in that ISO 50 is being simulated and is achieved my using the camera DR.
 
An Exception said:
I didn't think ISO 50's are real ISO, in that ISO 50 is being simulated and is achieved my using the camera DR.
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That's my understanding also, it's when you need that little bit more for dof etc and aren't worried about reduced DR. Generally you shouldn't use it unless you really need to.
 
DR?

50 was used in the above shot because the shutter was peaking 1/8000 sec at 100 ISO when I metered around the sun :p
 
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Mint_Sauce said:
That's my understanding also, it's when you need that little bit more for dof etc and aren't worried about reduced DR. Generally you shouldn't use it unless you really need to.
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I thought the point of it was when you want the most noise free image possible, infact thats what I've seen all advise for as when to use it, for shooting landscapes at night and such.

I've taken a good few ISO 50 shots, but aren't home right now to post any examples.
 
This channel :) http://www.youtube.com/user/ChristopherKblog/videos

Nexus said:
I thought the point of it was when you want the most noise free image possible, infact thats what I've seen all advise for as when to use it, for shooting landscapes at night and such.

I've taken a good few ISO 50 shots, but aren't home right now to post any examples.
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Yup that's what I've read as well. I've not seen any issues with IQ on any images at 50 so far, everything is pin sharp straight from the RAW files. Perhaps ISO50 used to be bad in one generation of SLR but no longer is?
 
ISO 50 is more prone to clipping highlights. From what I understand it is basically over exposing the image by a stop, and then pulling the exposure back down so when you look on the LCD or computer, it isn't over exposed. You lose headroom in the highlights though, and is similar to exposing to the right.
 
Waited most of the day for delivery for the 5d3 only for the dumb DHL people to say they thought the door number on my address wasn't valid.

Spoke to a woman from DHL who also checked my address and said its valid and fine and have no idea why the person delivering it said that.

guess i will wait tomorrow but im working and dont know if anyone will be indoors
 
An Exception said:
ISO 50 is more prone to clipping highlights. From what I understand it is basically over exposing the image by a stop, and then pulling the exposure back down so when you look on the LCD or computer, it isn't over exposed. You lose headroom in the highlights though, and is similar to exposing to the right.
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It is basically this, although that is in general how the different ISOs work. Changing from ISO 200 to 400 the camera simply exposes for halves the length of time and the amplifier multiplies by 2 all the signal and noise recorded.

ISO 50 will over expose the photo by 1 stop and then the amplifier only amplifies half the amount. So yes, highlights get clipped unless you have sufficient DR.

It is a bit like ETTR but ETTR you try your hardest not to clip any highlights, you just try to exploit the maximal tonal ranges in the higher tonal zones and avoid the shadow tonal zones that have low bit depth.
ETTR will actually maximise the DR that can be achieved, minimising noise in the shadows. That is why camera with veyr good highlight recovery are very nice to work with if you use ETTR, even if the base DR is not the highest due to shadow noise because you have more latitude to ETTR and avoid recording any shadow tones. Of course, having clean shadows means you have less need of ETTR techniques, the D800 has a good mixture of highlight headroom and noise free shadows.
 
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