Airfix

I use wood, plastic, resin and metal (pewter).

Superglue is the adhesive of choice due to the ability to clean-break the bonded surfaces together. Polystyrene cement melts the plastic together, making for removing the parts (in rare occasions when you may need to) to be very damaging and messy.

For metal, you can use modelling putty that hardens through kneading it with an activation compound - usually combined with pinning the inner surfaces of the pieces together too.

Just to clarify, don't use superglue for wood if you may want to break the parts. You will just destroy everything

The best glue for wood modelling is undoubtedly Aliphatic wood glue.
 
Hi, I used to love building model aircraft when I was younger. Having seen some of the pictures I wouldn't mind having a crack at them again, I would say I'm more or less a total noob again so I was wondering what would be a good kit to get started again?

I've two sets that I would like to try and build up so can you please recommend me what you think would be best for starting again.
1. Battle of Britain: Hurricane Mk.I, Spitfire Mk.I, Bf109 etc
2. Cold war US Carrier Aircraft: A4 skyhawk, A6 intruder, F4 Phantom etc

I will also need to get some paints, brushes and glue again so what is good?

Can't give advice on glues as I am mainly a wood modeller.

As for paints and brushes, I like Revells aqua colour paints. They have a great palette, the pots are nicely constructed and not messy and each one has a kind of mini palette in the lid. One shake before opening and there is ususallly enough paint in the palette to dub rather than plunging your brush into the pot.

As for brushes, you need a range. For modelling small planes and such, I would recommend a flat 2, round 0, 000, 3/0 and lastly, a very small 10/0. When you get them you'll be amazed how thin they are, but you'll realise why once you start painting the tiny parts.

I use Pro Arte miniature brushes. Nice quality, cheap enough (£3 a pop) that damaging one is not a disaster and best of all, oversized handles which makes intricate painting and a steady hand far easier.
 
Sorry for another post. But I prefer to give my unbuilt models away for postage costs to people I know will build them rather than flog em for a few quid on ebay. So had a rifle through and found a model I will never build. Far too busy with my 3 boats, Mini cooper and routemaster bus!

It's an unopened Tamiya Skyline. Pics below. If you want it, just let me know on here and I'll trust to sort out postage costs and address.

However, there are 2 rules. That rules are that you must have posted on this thread previously and the model must be built and a pic posted on here as proof :p



 
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Hi, I must admit I have only just found this thread but after looking at most of the pages and pics there are some great models been made by you guys. I used to love making models as a kit and have always wanted to give it another go but have never got round to it.

Looking at some of the models you guys produce it looks like it could be a very expensive hobby? (which I might struggle with getting past the wife as I already have a few lol).

So I guess my question is as a beginner how much would you expect to spend to get a model and the paints etc to do a decent job to get me started? I know I can always add to the kit but what is the bare minimum?

Thanks

***EDIT*** I didnt click refresh before posting this and didnt realise Gambisk has posted a very simlar question above, sorry!
 
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Models are not particularly expensive. It's the other stuff such as airbrushes, compressors, paints (you need quite a few), tools. Eventually you will find yourself wanting better tools than the ones you find in your average Revell toolkit. But you can buy as you go along, so there's no massive outlay at any time.

First tip, don't use a generic plastic craft knife. Grab yourself a size 3 Swann and Morton scalpel with a pack of 10A blades. Not expensive (about £4 for handle and 5 blades)and vastly superior to a craft knife

Minimum spend for first model, tools and paints, I would hazard a guess at between £40-50. But once you start building these things up, the subsequent cost of each model will become cheaper as you already have the bits and pieces.
 
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Models are not particularly expensive. It's the other stuff such as airbrushes, compressors, paints (you need quite a few), tools. Eventually you will find yourself wanting better tools than the ones you find in your average Revell toolkit. But you can buy as you go along, so there's no massive outlay at any time.

First tip, don't use a generic plastic craft knife. Grab yourself a size 3 Swann and Morton scalpel with a pack of 10A blades. Not expensive (about £4 for handle and 5 blades)and vastly superior to a craft knife

Minimum spend for first model, tools and paints, I would hazard a guess at between £40-50. But once you start building these things up, the subsequent cost of each model will become cheaper as you already have the bits and pieces.

Thanks, I guess the model kit will tell me which paints I will need to buy? And apart from a Craft Knife and brushes are there any other essentials?
 
Thanks, I guess the model kit will tell me which paints I will need to buy? And apart from a Craft Knife and brushes are there any other essentials?

If I was starting plastic modelling, I would get

Glue
Scalpel
Brushes
Paints (you also need a primer and a clear coat)
Side cutters
Files
Very fine sandpaper can also be handy.

The model will tell you what paints to use. Some colours are mixed, but the instructions also give you instructions on what colours to mix. If you have to mix colours, a few cheap plastic test tubes and pipettes are a good buy.

If you are building a model with decals, then a pot of decal soft makes the business of applying them easier and more visually appealing.
 
I must admit that I tend to prefer the Inverse/Reverse type tweezers (the ones that by default are closed and you press them to open) I find them easier to use for placement of small parts.
 
I've got some catching up to do.

I did some kits back in my younger days, about 25 years ago!

Now, with the children about. I've finished a few planes/copters to hang up in his room, plus I've got some kits just for me!

So here's what's left to do

kits.jpg


Sorry for another post. But I prefer to give my unbuilt models away for postage costs to people I know will build them rather than flog em for a few quid on ebay. So had a rifle through and found a model I will never build. Far too busy with my 3 boats, Mini cooper and routemaster bus!

It's an unopened Tamiya Skyline. Pics below. If you want it, just let me know on here and I'll trust to sort out postage costs and address.

However, there are 2 rules. That rules are that you must have posted on this thread previously and the model must be built and a pic posted on here as proof :p

Happy to take it off your hands, and I'll bump it to the top of the queue ;)
 
I found this while searching tonight, seems a pretty good little guide for beginners?

http://forum.model-space.co.uk/default.aspx?g=posts&t=7660

I just had a quick speed read of that thread and seems to cover a lot of the basics nicely. Another thing I would mention is choice of kit, ie: the size of the kit you want build, 1/72, 1/48, 1/32 or 1/24. The most popular is still 1/72 as the completed model/s don't take up much space but the level of detail obviously suffers due to size constraints. The scale thats becoming most popular I believe is 1/48 as it offers the best compromise between size (not too big) and detail level, plus manufacturers are banging kits out in 1/48 so fast that theres now a range of kits similar in size to 1/72. Another thing to take into account is ease of assembly a lot of kits are cheap to buy but the quality is a bit iffy and you can end up with a kit that can be a real snotter to build with parts not fitting very well, noticeable inaccuracies. lack of detail etc, and this can make akit more difficult and hence not enjoyable to build.
I'd always recommend Tamiya for a first time build in 1/48 as these kits are a real pleasure to with parts that fit well with a minimal amount of rubbing down and filling, have some nice surface detail, even the plastic they're made of is nice and hard and distortion free and are relatively cheap.
The second is research. The number of times I've looked at models and seen undercarriage legs at the wrong angle, wings with the incorrect dihedral, even tail planes put on backwards, so getting know a little about your chosen subject really helps here.
that Tamiya mk V spitfire in post 571 'frinstance is a prime example of a easy kit to build that is very nice to to look at when finished and is fairly accurate when finished, that sort of kit would be mychoice for a first time build (if you like aeroplanes that is)
 
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Well my 1/35 Tamiya Matilda II has arrived. I can post pics if anyone's interested.

Great model of one of my favourite tanks of the whole war, a beast when she first appeared but woefully under gunned when the "modern" army turned up on the battle field, didn't stop the Germans using captured ones though which were apparently well like by the crews.

Good luck with the Caunter Camo :eek:;)

If you need info on accurate colours and good info on how to mix those colours from available paints you can't go wrong with Mike Starmer's work

http://www.mafva.net/other pages/Starmer camo.htm

Or head over to the TMP forums where you can find some of his mixes with other paint brands but beware of the rivet counters ;)
 
Pics would be nice and if possible a sort of build progress would fab. :)

I'll certainly keep posting, but it'll be a slow, first-time build as I haven't done a model since I was ten and I have very little spare time at the moment.


Great model of one of my favourite tanks of the whole war, a beast when she first appeared but woefully under gunned when the "modern" army turned up on the battle field, didn't stop the Germans using captured ones though which were apparently well like by the crews.

Good luck with the Caunter Camo :eek:;)

If you need info on accurate colours and good info on how to mix those colours from available paints you can't go wrong with Mike Starmer's work

http://www.mafva.net/other pages/Starmer camo.htm

Or head over to the TMP forums where you can find some of his mixes with other paint brands but beware of the rivet counters ;)

Thanks for the advice. I like the tank too, and I have the added bonus of my youngest daughter being called Matilda, so I had to get it really! At least, that's how I spun it to Mrs Edrof. ;)

I won't be worrying about historical accuracy on this model, so I'm skipping the Caunter pattern, although it is rather spiffing. I'm going to go for this kind of dirty camo look and if it looks half as awesome as the pic below when I've finished I'll be a happy man:

17ii.jpg
 
Started on my Eduard spitfire last night. Planning on doing this model by hand then the following maybe by airbrush. I'm really enjoying it and pleased with the progress so far though and fairly happy with the paint job considering its a brush finish. Have a bit more to do on the **** pit tomorrow night before joining the fuselage. Not bad though considering I've not done one for a good 10+ years :)

qnsku0.jpg
 
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Thats looking very nice for a first attempt in years. Just don't rush it, take your time and the result will probably better than you anticipated.
 
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