Yeah, it does need DSC for 1440p at 360hz, especially at 10bit.
I use Glenwing's calculator whenever I need to check if something is supported, especially because I will run custom resolutions at times too:
Alienware announces the AW2725DF and AW3225QF (worlds first 4k 240hz and worlds first 1440p 360hz QD-OLED monitors - launches January 2024)
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I use Glenwing's calculator whenever I need to check if something is supported, especially because I will run custom resolutions at times too:
Soldato
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hmmm good reason to wait for 2.1 for both display and GPU.
Yup the gsync module handles large fluctuating FPS ranges especially when you drop below 50 FPS much much much better than adaptive sync based tech.
There's time I'm tempted to switch back to the aw34dw but the physical height of the 32" has ruined it somewhat for me now.
Didnt even realise my poor mans Aorus master 4090 only has DP 1.4
Looks like i'll be sticking with DP 1.4 and maybe look at getting another IPS Gsync screen thats just higher refresh rate to tide me over. Instead of waiting around for new tech and needing to maybe upgrade GPU too.
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Have you still got the AW34 or did you sell it?
Once we see the native Gsync module monitors released I think that'll be my point to start looking at moving back to an Nvidia GPU. I also really miss having access to Reflex as well.
Still got it but used more for work now (less blue light emitted from the previous 34" ips i was using so helps with eye fatigue/strain), seemed pointless letting it go for £300-400 when most oled monitors still costing £800+. For oled and gpu choice, true gsync will certainly be a reason to tie people to nvidia, based on my own experience with gsync, free/adaptive/g sync compatible etc. I don't know how people can state that freesync is as good as gsync, it just isn't imo. Blurbusters/ufotest website guy has stated a few times this too, true gsync is the golden sample for vrr gaming.
Yeah, I wonder what the % of peope using any form of adaptive sync is - and then those that would have experience true Gsync is probably be an ever smaller %. There's a few guys I play with who never even enable adaptive sync, they just play CS/Valorant/League of Legends so have never even looked into it!
I think anyone saying that Freesync/Adaptive Sync is as good as true Gsync likely just hasn't used a monitor that had the dedicated module - because it was a genuinely better experience. That said, I do think more recent implementations of adaptive sync/free sync etc. are leagues ahead of where they were 6/7 years ago even if they're still quite far off what the native module does.
I used an Alienware 240hz TN 1080p monitor that came in 2 versions, a Gsync version and a Freesync version and the Gsync version was, despite being about 100 quid more expensive, so much better.
Looking forward to seeing what happens in the next few years with it all. Nvidia's new dedicated module should start to become an available offering on monitors towards the end of this year so it'll be interesting to see which brands go for it and what the pricing is like.
Associate
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Has anyone used the AW2725DF for playing CS2? Been playing pretty much only this lately and thinking about upgrading my 144hz ips monitor.
I have 465 nits confirmed as peak brightness on my AW2725DF. I understand the device is certified for HDR 400 True Black.
There is no option to access HDR 1000 in colour profiles, so how are you guys getting access to it? And, is it worth it?
There is no option to access HDR 1000 in colour profiles, so how are you guys getting access to it? And, is it worth it?
Soldato
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Snip
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Soldato
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OK this isnt the same monitor as yours but maybe its the same process to enable Peak 1000 on the monitor:
Also make sure that afterwards you set the peak brightness in the windows hdr app to 1000 and then windows should report 1000 nits.
Thanks I now have that setting available, as per the video, by selecting SMART HDR in the actual monitor settings, and choosing HDR 1000.
Interestingly, Windows is reporting 993 nits, so I am "7" short of the 1000 figure, but hardly a concern!
Interestingly, Windows is reporting 993 nits, so I am "7" short of the 1000 figure, but hardly a concern!
There was no option in the Windows HDR calibration app to set the peak brightness: the software simply allows you to apply a slider across 3/4 images based on your views of disappearing lattice structures
*I have just realised the numbers available on the slides for images 2/3 relates to the peak brightness, nits value. I am pleased to say this is hitting around 1,000 nits
*I have just realised the numbers available on the slides for images 2/3 relates to the peak brightness, nits value. I am pleased to say this is hitting around 1,000 nits
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Got a light bar finally, works rather well, almost too well dare I say...
Brand is Quntis, on Amazon. Comes with a battery powered wireless remote, power to the bar is via monitor's USB and it has an RGB uplighter too which I have set to white. The downlight can be changed in ranges from pure white to warm white. The picture is with it at the lowest brightness
Brand is Quntis, on Amazon. Comes with a battery powered wireless remote, power to the bar is via monitor's USB and it has an RGB uplighter too which I have set to white. The downlight can be changed in ranges from pure white to warm white. The picture is with it at the lowest brightness
Soldato
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Got a light bar finally, works rather well, almost too well dare I say...
Brand is Quntis, on Amazon. Comes with a battery powered wireless remote, power to the bar is via monitor's USB and it has an RGB uplighter too which I have set to white. The downlight can be changed in ranges from pure white to warm white. The picture is with it at the lowest brightness
You don't want bias light shining on the screen, it should behind the monitor/TV.
Got a light bar finally, works rather well, almost too well dare I say...
Brand is Quntis, on Amazon. Comes with a battery powered wireless remote, power to the bar is via monitor's USB and it has an RGB uplighter too which I have set to white. The downlight can be changed in ranges from pure white to warm white. The picture is with it at the lowest brightness
Not convinced with that one
Soldato
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yes but shoudn't be that way the glow should be behind the monitor. Especially if yours is QD OLED
I use a couple of bias light strips on monitor and TV, they're mounted on the backside. You want something like this
I find it better the way it is, there is glow down on the desk and glow behind the monitor. I don't want glow just behind the monitor as to my eyes that doesn't feel natural especially when doing productivity work or just browsing.
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