Quick search on Glacier CPU line shows: - RGB: +12V, G, R, B. So should work fine. GPU didn't have specifications but assume it's the same.
Aqua Computer Aquaero Owners thread
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Quick search on Glacier CPU line shows: - RGB: +12V, G, R, B. So should work fine. GPU didn't have specifications but assume it's the same.
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Hi guys. I would like to pick someones brain if possible. I apologise is this has been asked before (have spent some time searching) but I find this a little confusing. I'm building a new system soon using a 5 yearish old pump and want to build in some failure safety to protect my system and I think this may be almost as cheap as a second pump with added benefits. What I'm looking to do is monitor fluid flow rates and possibly shut down the system if none is detected for a set time or temp limits are hit. I have seen another forum where some one states it's possible with the Aquaero 6 LT but is there anything else I would need?
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Also with the aqua computer high flow sensor, I'm assuming that I can get away with the basic model while using the aquaero and not the one with the usb connection.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
My basket at Overclockers UK:
- 1 x Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 LT USB Fan Controller= £89.99
- 1 x Aqua Computer Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 - Black= £12.95
- 1 x Aqua Computer High-Flow Flow Sensor= £32.99
- 1 x Aqua Computer Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4= £9.98
Total: £154.61 (includes shipping: £8.70)
Also with the aqua computer high flow sensor, I'm assuming that I can get away with the basic model while using the aquaero and not the one with the usb connection.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
£10
(incl. VAT)
You need a 71044 3 pin cable not included with the flow meter to connect it to the Aquaero.
Thats's about it really once you've set it all up you just need to create an alarm to trigger when the flow drops below a certain level.
You may also need the Aquacomputer Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break cable and relay connector so that the Aquaero can send signal to the motherboard to tell it to shutdown your system.
Sorry can't link the parts due to forum police.
Thats's about it really once you've set it all up you just need to create an alarm to trigger when the flow drops below a certain level.
You may also need the Aquacomputer Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break cable and relay connector so that the Aquaero can send signal to the motherboard to tell it to shutdown your system.
Sorry can't link the parts due to forum police.
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Lol. Thanks for the help! Reckoned I would be missing at least 1 thing, will track those down then.
Doobedoo's got you covered. The extra connection he's mentioned for the High-flow doesn't come with the unit and looks like just a fan connection. Don't be fooled into not ordering it as it's a different size to a fan connection.
If you've got really neat custom wiring it is possible to do without the ugly ATX break by just getting one of the relay connectirs and wiring it in yourself but if that doesn't bother you, th ATX break is plug and play simple.
If you've got really neat custom wiring it is possible to do without the ugly ATX break by just getting one of the relay connectirs and wiring it in yourself but if that doesn't bother you, th ATX break is plug and play simple.
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Pretty much what the rest here have said mate. Then you can set alarms. It's pretty awesome. I personally use the AQ pump so the alarm is set to detect RPM's. But flow works too, or a combination of both plus fill level sensor! All options will work well.
Unless wanting it for look you likely don't need it with 2,5A/30W per channel output of Aquaero 6 without any cooling.
It doesn't give signal to motherboard, but cuts down motherboard's PS-ON signal to PSU causing PSU to instant shutdown.
AquaComputer part number for ATX Break cable is 53047
With connector needed for relay output header being this:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua...ector-3-contacts-for-aquaero-5-wc-126-aq.html
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Cheers guys!
No custom sleeving unfortunately, just had a look at the atx break, my god but that is ugly. Could really do with better cables as evga pcie power cables are bright red and my new case has a lot of window space. Think I may just have to break out the credit card and get some new psu cables along with the relay header. As Esat said, I could save a bit of money not going for the heat sink, will probably hook up an xspc pwm fan hub to it any way for the extra fans. Glad I asked in here! Just seems to make so much more sense to set fan speed according to fluid temp, should be able to set a better fan curve to lower noise too which will be a bonus.
No custom sleeving unfortunately, just had a look at the atx break, my god but that is ugly. Could really do with better cables as evga pcie power cables are bright red and my new case has a lot of window space. Think I may just have to break out the credit card and get some new psu cables along with the relay header. As Esat said, I could save a bit of money not going for the heat sink, will probably hook up an xspc pwm fan hub to it any way for the extra fans. Glad I asked in here! Just seems to make so much more sense to set fan speed according to fluid temp, should be able to set a better fan curve to lower noise too which will be a bonus.
On an Aquaero 6 that isn't being loaded to its max EsaT is right, the heatsink probably isn't a requirement. It does, as he also commented, make it look more attractive - if you can see the back in your build. It may also be worth considering for its protection and labelling value. Without it, you have a bare PCB with just a sticky label on it to identify the headers - I think it's also marked on the PCB but you're not going to be able to read that once it's in the case. The heatsink will stop you (or at least make it harder) from shorting things out when you're plugging things in after it's installed.....because obviously, you always turn everything completely off before you do, right?! 
If you're going down the relay route for emergency shutdown, you have two options:
1. Have it interrupt the ATX PS_ON line (pin 16 on a 24-pin ATX and usually green). This is a bit more involved/scary just because there's more wires in an ATX connector but has the advantage of bypassing the motherboard - ie it'll switch off the PSU (except standby voltage) even if the motherboard is fried.
2. Have it short out the motherboard's power on pins for 10 seconds. These are the pins the case's power button connects to so shorting them out is like holding the power button down. Doesn't necessarily work if the board is fried - I'm talking worst case here - but it's probably a little less scary to do or may be more easily achievable whilst still keeping neat wiring.
If you're going down the relay route for emergency shutdown, you have two options:
1. Have it interrupt the ATX PS_ON line (pin 16 on a 24-pin ATX and usually green). This is a bit more involved/scary just because there's more wires in an ATX connector but has the advantage of bypassing the motherboard - ie it'll switch off the PSU (except standby voltage) even if the motherboard is fried.
2. Have it short out the motherboard's power on pins for 10 seconds. These are the pins the case's power button connects to so shorting them out is like holding the power button down. Doesn't necessarily work if the board is fried - I'm talking worst case here - but it's probably a little less scary to do or may be more easily achievable whilst still keeping neat wiring.
Just a little info to add to the thread, I recently bought a Ek D5 pwm pump, and it works great with the Aquaero 6 XT, I was a little worried as non Aqua computer Pwm pumps seem to be a little hit and miss with the Aquaero 6 and require modding, but it worked great out of the box, i have the Pump connected to Fan Pwm 4 and referenced to the loops temp, i wouldn't recommend a gradual ramping of the pump as the frequency of the sound they make is quite annoying, so i found that running at 60% pwm until 35 degrees when it ramps up to 100% maintails the near silence of the pump while upping the flow rate when needed.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
If I remember correctly - and that's getting doubtful these days! - most D5's had an incorrect or non-standard implementation of PWM which required a mod to work properly with the Aquaero (and some other devices). EK fixed this in their implementation of the D5.
As for curves on pumps (or fans for that matter), test what sort of temps you get running at different speeds. You may find that your real-life temps don't change that much with pump speed so you may as well run it at a speed that doesn't cause offense to your ears. Personally I have my 'curves' set as steps for this reason. A constantly changing pitch is very difficult to tune out and is constantly distracting. If it stays the same pitch and only changes when you do something like start gaming (with higher temps caused by graphics card starting work) then you may find it less intrusive. My stepped curves start at 'off' for my rad fans (I have a ridiculous rad), spin them up when it hits a certain temp and stay on until it drops a full degree below the start-up point. This is done by having the "startup temperature" set in 'manual setup' to a temperature higher than beginning of the first step. All of these curves then have a final 'panic mode' for full speed at temperatures slightly above what I normally get to when gaming.
The slight slope on the vertical of the 'step' stops it from warbling as it gets to the threshold.
The vertical red line is the startup temperature.
Hope this is of some help/interest.
Gareth
As for curves on pumps (or fans for that matter), test what sort of temps you get running at different speeds. You may find that your real-life temps don't change that much with pump speed so you may as well run it at a speed that doesn't cause offense to your ears. Personally I have my 'curves' set as steps for this reason. A constantly changing pitch is very difficult to tune out and is constantly distracting. If it stays the same pitch and only changes when you do something like start gaming (with higher temps caused by graphics card starting work) then you may find it less intrusive. My stepped curves start at 'off' for my rad fans (I have a ridiculous rad), spin them up when it hits a certain temp and stay on until it drops a full degree below the start-up point. This is done by having the "startup temperature" set in 'manual setup' to a temperature higher than beginning of the first step. All of these curves then have a final 'panic mode' for full speed at temperatures slightly above what I normally get to when gaming.
The slight slope on the vertical of the 'step' stops it from warbling as it gets to the threshold.
The vertical red line is the startup temperature.
Hope this is of some help/interest.
Gareth
Hi,
I am looking at getting an aquaero to control with fan curves, 3 intake fans, 2 radiator fans and 3 radiator fans each as separate channels based on the water coolant temperature in my water cooling loop.
I can not decide between the power adjust 3 ultra and the aquero 5 lt or the aquero 6 lt.
Would the power adjust 3 ultra do the job? I think it can based on what I have read but wanted confirmation before buying anything.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Cheers,
Alex
I am looking at getting an aquaero to control with fan curves, 3 intake fans, 2 radiator fans and 3 radiator fans each as separate channels based on the water coolant temperature in my water cooling loop.
I can not decide between the power adjust 3 ultra and the aquero 5 lt or the aquero 6 lt.
Would the power adjust 3 ultra do the job? I think it can based on what I have read but wanted confirmation before buying anything.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Cheers,
Alex
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DC output would put me off, unless it's DC fans you're using?
Thanks for the response. Yes my fans are all 3 pin not 4 pin pwm.
A PowerAdjust would give you one 30 Watt channel of voltage control (3-pin). The Ultra version is the same as the Standard but it also lets you control fans based on the single temperature header. If you have an Aquaero running the PowerAdjust, you don't need the Ultra as the Aquaero does this for you.
An Aquaero would give you four channels.
The 5 has one PWM channel (4-pin) and three voltage control. It also has a lower power in that it does about 20 Watts per channel.
The 6 has four PWM channels and higher power at 30 Watts per channel - enough to run a pump directly.
Note that 4-pin PWM headers can run 3-pin voltage controlled fans - it's just a setting.
If you want three banks of fans as separate channels, you've either got to have three PowerAdjusts or one Aquaero.
An Aquaero would give you four channels.
The 5 has one PWM channel (4-pin) and three voltage control. It also has a lower power in that it does about 20 Watts per channel.
The 6 has four PWM channels and higher power at 30 Watts per channel - enough to run a pump directly.
Note that 4-pin PWM headers can run 3-pin voltage controlled fans - it's just a setting.
If you want three banks of fans as separate channels, you've either got to have three PowerAdjusts or one Aquaero.
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I never even thought about the power consumption of a pump, I assumed any fan header could handle it?
Edit: actually, pumps have Molex power so the header is signal only?
Depends what pump and how you wire it. The more powerful DDCs (or D5's) would be a bit more than an Aquaero 5 channel could handle. It could probably just about do it with a heatsink but you're pushing your luck. A PowerAdjust could do it and so could an Aquaero 6. This all assumes that you use the Aquaero (or PowerAdjust) to supply power which you can do with more recent PWM pumps by taking the molex off and crimping on some fan-pins so that you can put all the wires nice and tidy in one plug. You'd need to know what you were doing with crimps and the wiring, obviously. Functionally, it's pretty much the same. The reason you'd do it is to simplify or tidy the wiring if you're doing a build that needs to look good rather than just work well. It's much easier to sleeve four wires to a fan connector rather than some to a molex and some to a fan and have them trail in different directions.
TLDR: Just plug it in how it's supposed to and don't worry about it. Just be careful you don't plug a pump that pulls too much power from an Aquaero5 if it's supplying the power (single fan connector rather than molex and fan).
TLDR: Just plug it in how it's supposed to and don't worry about it. Just be careful you don't plug a pump that pulls too much power from an Aquaero5 if it's supplying the power (single fan connector rather than molex and fan).
Without specific information from manufacturer it's best to assume that 1A is absolute max for fan output headers.
Hence higher power pumps used especially in custom water loops likely come with at least Molex adapter.
If not needing external 5.25" bay control Aquearo 6 LT basically has one extra channel (besides more functionality) compared to how many PowerAdjust modules you get with same price.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-aquaero-6-lt-usb-fan-controller-wc-31j-aq.html
Ah, thanks for the very useful response, much appreciated!
Sounds like I need an aquaero then!
I actually have a d5 pwm pump which i replaced with a vario, so if a got an aquaero 5, could I have the 3 voltage control channels running the 3 fan channels I need and then the pwm channel running the pwm pump?
Thanks,