assistance required

PAULRYAN52 said:
sorry to keep asking but how could I connect the rgb pump and monoblock to the mb rgb slot, the case comes with 2 rgb strips, can I connect all the rgb to the mb, can I get the following and keep them connected for when/if I need to empty the loop
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £25.96 (includes shipping: £3.48)
​
Click to expand...

The block comes with either 4 pin standard or 3 pin digital. You'd plug the digital into the board. Then I think you have 2 5-pin RGBW headers as well on the board. But you'd have to double check
 
I thought it only had 1 total, what about the following
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £564.67 (includes shipping: £11.10)​
​
 
Akasa RGB LED Splitter Cable
CB-12A-AK
£7 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
EK Water Blocks EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
WC-9AK-EK
£3 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
EK Water Blocks EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)
WC-995-EK
£3 (incl. VAT)
Find out more
@PAULRYAN52

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109821664.pdf

  • The built-in 3-pin Digital LED strip is compatible with the motherboard 5V Digital LED RGB controller.
  • The included 4-pin LED strip is compatible with any 12V LED RGB controller.
Click to expand...

So, digital is standard but also have 4 pin.
Looked at your board as I thought you had z370 series and not z270 - these dont come with digital and your board only has one RGB header so the splitter will be needed but you also need the Phanteks RGB cable

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-rgb-led-adapter-cable-ca-057-pt.html

basically Phanteks have their own headers so you can plug direct into board- way to make them more money- the cable would plug into the spiltter and then the daisy chained Halo's into that cable.
The EKWB 4-pin adapter would also plug into that splitter

personally if you focusing on subtle RGB - change the colour to clear fluid - specially the RGB res- its meant to light up the liquid and pastel would kill it

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-x1-clear-premixed-watercooling-fluid-1l-wc-035-mh.html

also need this for the drain valve

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-af-extender-rotary-m-m-g1-4-nickel-wc-9hs-ek.html
 
thanks how many of them connector do I need, if it goes were I think it's just 1, regarding fluid if I want a darker red would I be better going with the non rgb pump and keeping the pastel red, regarding rgb header on my mb I think its 5 pin, will that make a difference
 
PAULRYAN52 said:
thanks how many of them connector do I need, if it goes were I think it's just 1, regarding fluid if I want a darker red would I be better going with the non rgb pump and keeping the pastel red, regarding rgb header on my mb I think its 5 pin, will that make a difference
Click to expand...

non rgb pump and pastel fluid, rgb and clear fluid :) makes sense for both as not wasting features of each


PAULRYAN52 said:
apparently one pin on the rgb header is for white so I just leave that blank, am I correct
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indeed, Gigabyte only ones to do pure White, you just plug it to the Voltage and R G B pins and one is left out. The splitter should do the trick and leave to connection slots free for any other RGB .
depending where you put your rad will determine where the fans and halo rings sit on the rad.
i.e if you have it up top, fans will be pushing air out and will be assembled Halo cover> fan > Rad > Case
at the front, the rad would be mounted to the case first and fans in pull so you can see the fans and halo rings . If you mounted like above with Fans pushing through the rad you wont see the halo RGB much or at all .
 
just depends it your mounting it in roof or front of the case.
roof its in push config, front its in pull

to be honest wouldn't really notice a difference in performance to much really - maybe 2-3c as mounting to the front would be bringing in colder ambient temps through the rad
 
PAULRYAN52 said:
This is my plan, 360 rad in front now and add a 280 rad up top in the future, will that be ok
Click to expand...

all fine how eve you set it up. just remember that the rad will bolt directly to the front of the case, then the Halo cover will sandwich the fan between the rad. and the fan will be set to sucking air through the rad :)
 
PAULRYAN52 said:
to the case, the 3 140 fans aren't high speed fans and only spin at 1000rpm
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thats fine , large fans shift more air then 120mm- the more the fans RPM the more sound they will make, even if they are very expensive silent wing fans.

would you'd do is move the rear fan to the front, so the rad has the same speed fans, then rear one bought- though looks like PWM 1000rpm is out of stock but high speed one is in

then you should have need for another rad for a very long time haha

some serious power

- Airflow @ 12V (cfm, m3/h): 59.5 / 101.09
- Air pressure @ 12V (mm H2O): 1.08
- Noise level @ 12V 100% (dB(A)): 15.5
Click to expand...

do lose static pressure being 140mm over 120mm but all models do
 
shouldnt be to hard to find the cooling watt of 360 vs 420 rads. thicker rads dont tend to add to much to performance, only when in Pull and Pull config and at higher RPM do they start adding up- which defeats the purpose of having a silent system
 
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