Big Bike Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm defo going for the iscg adaptor,, I've found one at crc, its an e13 isgc 05 one. I presume thats the newest type. will the bb cup sandwitch the mount adaptor securely or will I need to araldite it or weld it on?
 
monkeypants said:
EDIT: Weescott; how does the X.0 mech compare to the XT?
Click to expand...

The XO shifters have an audible click, where as my Sram Attack shifters are V quiet. The whole gear system is a lot more precise than XT, and a lot louder - something you get use to. I can shift gears a lot quicker with XO too.

XT works well, XO is just better in every respect...funily enough.
 
Oh barstewards

I gave the Nomad a clean yesterday after a race, left it out to dry as to have another go at cleaning the extremely thick clay like jungle mud off and...


rusty_cassette.jpg


XT cassette with about 50 miles on it.:eek:

I never had this problem even with Riding through Scottish winters. 1 race through the jungle of Borneo and this happens.

Oh well, lesson learned!
 
Here’s mine.

It’s a bit old. 10 years to be exact but here she is

[edit] New pics with cut down steerer


bike%203.jpg



And my favourite bit of the bike my old school magura hydraulics

bike%205.jpg
 
Last edited:
whao, how long is that stem? Love the old skool Pace forks. 50mm travel? I was close to buying Magura brakes, went for XTR V's instead. That was back in 99.
 
collisster said:
I'm defo going for the iscg adaptor,, I've found one at crc, its an e13 isgc 05 one. I presume thats the newest type. will the bb cup sandwitch the mount adaptor securely or will I need to araldite it or weld it on?
Click to expand...
 
weescott said:
XT cassette with about 50 miles on it.:eek:

I never had this problem even with Riding through Scottish winters. 1 race through the jungle of Borneo and this happens.

Oh well, lesson learned!
Click to expand...
Unlucky dude, do you know what's caused that?
 
collisster said:
I'm defo going for the iscg adaptor,, I've found one at crc, its an e13 isgc 05 one. I presume thats the newest type. will the bb cup sandwitch the mount adaptor securely or will I need to araldite it or weld it on?

collisster
Click to expand...


ISCG 05 is the newest one yes,its basically the same as ISCG but with the holes further apart.

The adaptor will be held in place by the BB once tightened up. Make sure you get the angle of the chain device right before you tighten it up to save you loosening it off again.
 
collisster said:
thanks you. so it wont need to be glued and the bb wil hold it firmly,?
Click to expand...

Nope its held in firmly by the BB against the frame. Just tighten the BB up to a decent torque! Mine has never came loose.....but my mates E13 back plate adapter has rattled loose since he got it 6 month+ ago....so eh tighten it up properly.

Hope you have better luck than my mate with his truvativ luftalarms...his chainring bolts rub on the BB outer face...despite having the required size. :rolleyes:
 
right. but without stripping the threads on the cup. I've heard that if you knock the boomerang it moves around and then starts to waggle loose..

collisster
 
collisster said:
right. but without stripping the threads on the cup. I've heard that if you knock the boomerang it moves around and then starts to waggle loose..

collisster
Click to expand...


Well if you hit it hard enough it probably will move.....just means you will have to tighten the BB cup up. BB threads are quite tough,you wont strip one out easily.

Cant say i have ever hit the boomberang....the bottom roller should be up above the bottom of the bash guard.....so you would hit the bash guard before hitting the boomerang.
 
monkeypants said:
You don't. The H screw limits how far from the bike the hanger can move, and the L screw limits how close it can get to the frame.

............................

Now you've done that, still on the smallest 'ring, get some pliers and an allen key for your front mech cable. Loosen the allen key that is gripping the cable a little, just enough so you can pull the cable through. Hold the loose end of the cable (the bit that sticks out of the derrailleur and ends) with the pliers and pull it so it is tensed. Now tighten the allen key and you should be shifting nicely, if you need to, you can adjust more finely with the barrel adjuster.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice - shifting sweetly now :)

The only step I couldn't do was the final bit - loosen the allen bolt, pull the cable etc etc... Whoever designed the unit is a muppet. The Allen bolt is facing downwards towards the frame with no clearance for even the smallest Allen key :rolleyes:
 
Hi there,

N00b question here, but how hard is it to bleed brakes?

Ive got some Hayes Solo's on my Dawes Oxide '05.

I know its not the best in the world, but it gets me to work and back ok ;)

Anyway, the front brake has gone very spongy as of late, the back one is going the same so I guess that the brakes need bleeding.

It hasnt been done since I got the bike in October '06. New pads are a must too on the front and rear as they are worn when I found out when I stripped the bike down for a good clean a couple of weeks ago.

Dot 4 fluid is needed I think for the brakes, iirc. Anything else I need? Should it take long and would it be diffcult for a first timmer?

Thanks :)
 
Every front shifter you can get is a 3 speed. All you need to do is screw the H limit screw in so you dont overshift.

I guess your gonna buy the adapter + that chain device then as that wont fit right on if you go for ISCG.

Hayes soles....damn brakes. Ideally you want a bleed kit to bleed any hayes brake because of the way the reservoir sits. When bleeding,after you take the pads out push the piston that moves back into its bore while the bleed nipple is open to save you the hassle of doing it once you have bled the brake.

I havent bled a hayes brake properly,with no mess without a bleed kit so i would say its ideal for you to buy one.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom