You'll be able to keep the heated grips, get an R6 throttle tube. When I checked a 'dedicated' action throttle for the SV I think it was like 25-30 quid whereas the R6 is like 7-8 quid.
As for the braided lines, get Wezmoto. Cheap and work well
Biker's Cafe Chatroom
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As for the braided lines, get Wezmoto. Cheap and work well
Soldato
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I managed to pick up a XLMoto slipstream backpack when they were on offer for £10.. If anybody wants it free, collect from Coventry
I don't have a bike at the moment and probably won't do until next season if I do get another, to be quite honest.
https://www.xlmoto.co.uk/xlmoto-slipstream-waterproof-mc-backpack-1
I don't have a bike at the moment and probably won't do until next season if I do get another, to be quite honest.
https://www.xlmoto.co.uk/xlmoto-slipstream-waterproof-mc-backpack-1
Soldato
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Any 12v relay? They're all the same, is this for hooking switched power up to your power commander?
Halfords/Maplin do them, just get a cheap 12v automotive relay, 4 or 5 pin - doesn't matter.
Halfords/Maplin do them, just get a cheap 12v automotive relay, 4 or 5 pin - doesn't matter.
This is for the power commander and autotune, the autotune has been wired into the tail light and I now have a warning light and no back brake light.
Will this work? How do I wire this up?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...egoryId=310504&productId=753479&storeId=10001
Soldato
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That should work, but your bike is canbus isn't it? 
You should be ok taking switched power from the number plate light as all that does is switch the relay on.
4 pins = live from battery, switched live, live to accessory, and ground (+ ground for the accessories).
I'd do some checking first of the best place to take the switched live from so you don't mess with the canbus (as the current set up has done).
You should be ok taking switched power from the number plate light as all that does is switch the relay on.
4 pins = live from battery, switched live, live to accessory, and ground (+ ground for the accessories).
I'd do some checking first of the best place to take the switched live from so you don't mess with the canbus (as the current set up has done).
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Well everything is wired up correctly it's just the autotune box draws too much power and it's taking the power away from the tail light.
Can I just move the positive wire from the autotune away from the tail light and take the power from the indicator?
Can I just move the positive wire from the autotune away from the tail light and take the power from the indicator?
As previously mentioned it's canbus, you can't just splice into any wire to pick up power, it'll throw a hissy fit as you've found out.
You either need a dedicated accessory box like the HEXezCAN which is what the GS guys use, to fit extra lamps etc. or the best way for you is to pick up the feed from the 12v accessory wire behind the fairing panel (or nearby, not exactly sure where it is on the S1000R).
You either need a dedicated accessory box like the HEXezCAN which is what the GS guys use, to fit extra lamps etc. or the best way for you is to pick up the feed from the 12v accessory wire behind the fairing panel (or nearby, not exactly sure where it is on the S1000R).
Soldato
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You'll be able to keep the heated grips, get an R6 throttle tube. When I checked a 'dedicated' action throttle for the SV I think it was like 25-30 quid whereas the R6 is like 7-8 quid.
As for the braided lines, get Wezmoto. Cheap and work well
Ok so the grips are like a 'sleeve' over the actual throttle tube, so thats do-able. Does the R6 tube naturally have less travel, or would you couple it with a quick action throttle kit?
Yes, I used hairspray for my new grips... never had a problem. You don't need a kit, just the throttle tube, the way the cables go round it make it a shorter throw. Make sure to adjust the cables after and lube them whilst they're out.
So i have disconnected the red wire from the tail light that's connected from the autotune. Now i'm thinking i don't actually need the autotune as it's been mapped so i might take it off completely and just use the PC.
Will this mess with the map i have or not? What about the sensor that's plugged into the exhaust? I'd need a blanking bolt as i don't want to leave an unplugged sensor on the bike.
Will this mess with the map i have or not? What about the sensor that's plugged into the exhaust? I'd need a blanking bolt as i don't want to leave an unplugged sensor on the bike.
Something else i've just read on the dynojet website, the autotune is supposed to be supplied with a can plug terminator, does that mean it'll allow draw from the system without throwing up errors? Just checked my autotune and it's got a socket that's empty.
I would leave it all as it left the tuning centre. You got pretty good results didn't you? Maybe ask them if removing the autotune will improve or break anything.
What's changed since you got the tune? Was the brake light working before they fiddled with it?
What's changed since you got the tune? Was the brake light working before they fiddled with it?
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Yeah it was, they used the power from the tail light to provide the 12v power to the autotune, this stopped the tail light working and gave me an error.
I have taken the wire off now so at least i can ride my bike without any errors and a working tail light.