BMW and M Power Owners

The newer one is better but its more important than that for you as you are looking at a saloon. You really want a facelift saloon, and all these have the new idrive whereas all saloons with old idrive are pre facelift cars.
 
[TW]Fox;22004803 said:
Took some nice photos in the sun today :)

* Pictures of your 530i *
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Just had a peek at these.

I know you will be honest answering this. I'd describe your 530i as one of the best examples of buying over condition and not mileage. Incredible to think its done nearly 200k. Fair statement?

Any up to date interior pics?
 
AndrewNR said:
Sure is... foot down > turbo spools > tubo kicks in > change gear... great fun.
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This is SO MUCH MORE FUN...
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That this EVER was
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Honest










Well when I say honest I might be fibbing
 
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Janesy B said:
RWD init. It's not that impressive, a Fiesta ST does it in 8 with 150bhp and that's a little scrabbly FWD car.
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Of course I forget, better traction. Last RWD car I had I hated but that was a 200SX

Really like the look of these in M Sport trim but when you compare running costs with something like a CTR with more power I imagine the CTR would work out cheaper because of the maintanance and servicing costs on the BMW?
 
[TW]Fox;21937853 said:
There is no Z4M 35Si. The Z4 SDrive35iS is a conventional non M division product, despite the fact it shares an engine with the 1 Series M Coupe.
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Just seen my typos from earlier...you're right...it was late.
 
I've just joined the BMW owners club - my new car was delivered today and it's amazing.
I haven't had chance to get some decent photos yet; I grabbed this on my iPhone before it got too dark.

F20 1 Series - 118i M Sport

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Mini update,

My coilovers arrived yesterday, chose the better inverted monotube design so theres less unsprung mass since ive added a bit more weight by adding wider wheels and tyres to the front.

Also need the coilovers to clear my cut slicks as they are similar width to 305 road tyres which im running front and rear

couple of quick pics

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depends on the situation and the type of vehicle.

If we are talking a full blown racecar, with downforce then i can understand if your trying to fine tune the vehicle to the precise amount to gain 2 tenths of a second.

But on the road and basic track i dont see the point in spending 50% of the value of the vehicle on a set of ohlins.

People have run them for the last 4 yrs and have no complaints about knocking.

Different strokes for different blokes.

I assume you know what the suspension im fitting and also what applications they are currently used in.

What would you suggest without spending a fortune?
 
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