A 320d for example will be both a bit cheaper and better spec'd. However the Alpina will have more power and give you better ride and handling. It's also rarer. Not everyone will want these things or see it worth the extra money. The options are expensive and initially there was an additional cost to pay if you wanted to add options. Thus many D3s are a poor spec compared to the average 320d.
Not a great picture, but the weather has been rubbish. Drive one and you will see what you get over the standard BMW.
That looks great. Never seen one of them on the road.
What is the spec?
And I'm guessing there is a Lime Rock track map sticker somewhere or a plaque on the dash that tells you this is something special. But that's just it. This isn't something special. It's simply a marketing exercise. A fraud. Not unlike pumping a fake engine noise through the car stereo like BMW does with the M5.
It's for guys who want to be associated with racetracks but don't actually go to the track themselves. It's for the modern poser racer. A luxury version of those fast and furious Honda civics with race seats and belts but stock engines that kids drive around on the street.
[TW]Fox;22315339 said:Only a minority purchased them for the ability the car offers.
Someone asked for a pic of an actual BMW rather than tyres chat
Struggling with that one tbh
Move on guys, lets not waste any more energy on the subject.
Alpina pic
[TW]Fox;22315093 said:Personally I think the entire thing is an insult to the Alpina heritage ...
That plate must have been transferred recently I was looking at it about a month ago and the DVLA had it registered to an E46 M3
Im rebushing all of the arms at the rear. Trailing (already had poly) lower camber arm and upper spring arm. Im putting ball joints in both locations on the hub and putting an adjustable camber arm on.If I were you I'd drop the whole read subframe off and then strip it apart for rebushing etc. at that point, particularly if you intend to mess about with the diff too.
I thought you were looking at the lower control arms, but the rear trailing arms should come away without having to remove the handbrake cable at all. as far as I can remember it's only the one bolt at the hub end and three bolts on the body. Do the ones on the body first and then have a look at the RTA. You won't need to do anything with the diff to get the RTA out.
You will, however, need to move the diff if you intend getting the lower arms or upper spring carrier arms off - again though, if you're doing all of the bushes in the rear subframe then just fetch it off the car and you'll have lots of room to work on it then.
Where are you based out of interest (sure I've asked you before actually).
EDIT: Are the bushes in the arms knackered? I didn't bother re-bushing mine as they seemed fine, I only did the subframe to body bushes and the rear trailing arm front bushes.