BMW and M Power Owners
- Thread starter panthro
- Start date
![[TW]Fox](/data/man-of-honor/2009.png){kind=avatar}
I actually prefer the Alcantara seats, as do most people wanting the 135.
If you have kids and work full time then you'll know free time doesn't happen often. Wouldn't change it for anything though, he's ace !!!You could always take the car out without him in it... crazy thought but I thought i'd just throw it out there
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Caporegime
Someone asked for a pic of an actual BMW rather than tyres chat
How did you get that laser to fire from your eyes?
Also I just noticed the barrel lock on the underside of your boot lid...is that a fail safe for if the touchy mechanism fails? I wonder if my car has that.
Caporegime
[TW]Fox;22312099 said:Worst 'I wish I hadnt spent £27k on a 118i with cloth seats only to find the M135i came out with standard leather for only 3k more before mine was even delivered' post ever
I apologise for being lazy...just wonder if you knew the answer.
How much would he cost to finance/buy a new M135i ?
Rough ball park figure would do, monthly repayment, say over 4 years.
Soldato
[TW]Fox;22311843 said:
Oh come on Fox. It was merely a opinion on the car. But you are correct in that there's around 1500quid difference on a 320d m sport and D3 Aplina. Yet the m sports do seem better specced. And cheaper?
I was just getting across that for what the Aplina has to offer you can have for much cheaper in a better spec'd car.
Obviously though at Month 48 you then own a 4 year old M135i outright.
There are cheaper ways to do it by financing with a huge baloon payment at the end or something to get the monthly payments down, but tbh if you need to do that can you really afford the car, given it increases total cost in order to get the monthly payments down to something you can afford.
There are cheaper ways to do it by financing with a huge baloon payment at the end or something to get the monthly payments down, but tbh if you need to do that can you really afford the car, given it increases total cost in order to get the monthly payments down to something you can afford.
Caporegime
[TW]Fox;22312210 said:
Ta.
A bit too much than i want it to be, may be in a couple of years...and get it second hand.
yeah, I've never used it (the barrel lock, I use the lasers all the time)
Soldato
Ok - waiting to be released onto blyton park, and proving we have had at least one day of sunshine this year.
Soldato
Cut it off eh? Done a couple on clarkey's car, it's a bit of a faff we found, you have to unbolt the diff and jack it up to get the top retaining bolt out/back in.
The bolt won't come out of the hub so I failed at the first hurdle. I will have to beat the snot out of it plus the plan was to rebush those arms anyway.
I hadn't touched the car for months, I wanted to get the arm completely off the car hence cutting the camber arm but now I can't release the handbrake cable from the car. Nothing is working out
I hadn't touched the car for months, I wanted to get the arm completely off the car hence cutting the camber arm but now I can't release the handbrake cable from the car. Nothing is working out
Soldato
Why are you trying to release the handbrake from the car?
When I did my subframe bushes, the easiest way of separating the handbrake from the car was to undo the bolts at the handbrake lever, and then from under the car pull the handbrake lines away from the lever, i.e. towards the back of the car. We has no joy at all separating them from the rear hubs, however they came quite easily away from the car - so we ended up with the subframe off and then a couple of handbrake tails coming from it.
The lower arms are a bit of a sod. Undo the bolt at the top of the arm and loosen it off as much as you can (the bolt should freely move but be blocked by the output flange of the diff). Then, at the rear of the diff, remove the horizontal diff bolt on the side of the arm you want to remove. Get your jack under the diff and lift it up as much as you can without lifting the car off the stands.
With some wiggling, turning, swearing and pulling you will be able to get the bolt out. Watch out for the little metal tab which drops out when you pull the bolt out - this is what the bolt threads into and you need it to put the arm back on.
When I did my subframe bushes, the easiest way of separating the handbrake from the car was to undo the bolts at the handbrake lever, and then from under the car pull the handbrake lines away from the lever, i.e. towards the back of the car. We has no joy at all separating them from the rear hubs, however they came quite easily away from the car - so we ended up with the subframe off and then a couple of handbrake tails coming from it.
The lower arms are a bit of a sod. Undo the bolt at the top of the arm and loosen it off as much as you can (the bolt should freely move but be blocked by the output flange of the diff). Then, at the rear of the diff, remove the horizontal diff bolt on the side of the arm you want to remove. Get your jack under the diff and lift it up as much as you can without lifting the car off the stands.
With some wiggling, turning, swearing and pulling you will be able to get the bolt out. Watch out for the little metal tab which drops out when you pull the bolt out - this is what the bolt threads into and you need it to put the arm back on.
Soldato
A 320d for example will be both a bit cheaper and better spec'd. However the Alpina will have more power and give you better ride and handling. It's also rarer. Not everyone will want these things or see it worth the extra money. The options are expensive and initially there was an additional cost to pay if you wanted to add options. Thus many D3s are a poor spec compared to the average 320d.
Not a great picture, but the weather has been rubbish. Drive one and you will see what you get over the standard BMW.
Im trying to get the handbrake cable off the car so I can get the rear trailing arms away from the car and rebush them.
I have undone the offside cable from the lever and it will only come back 20cm or so. Do I need to undo both cables?
My diff will be coming down to do the arms, and ill be doing diff mounts too… the moron in my wants to rebuild the diff too, but if I do that ill never get the car on the road!
Soldato
If I were you I'd drop the whole read subframe off and then strip it apart for rebushing etc. at that point, particularly if you intend to mess about with the diff too.
I thought you were looking at the lower control arms, but the rear trailing arms should come away without having to remove the handbrake cable at all. as far as I can remember it's only the one bolt at the hub end and three bolts on the body. Do the ones on the body first and then have a look at the RTA. You won't need to do anything with the diff to get the RTA out.
You will, however, need to move the diff if you intend getting the lower arms or upper spring carrier arms off - again though, if you're doing all of the bushes in the rear subframe then just fetch it off the car and you'll have lots of room to work on it then.
Where are you based out of interest (sure I've asked you before actually).
EDIT: Are the bushes in the arms knackered? I didn't bother re-bushing mine as they seemed fine, I only did the subframe to body bushes and the rear trailing arm front bushes.
I thought you were looking at the lower control arms, but the rear trailing arms should come away without having to remove the handbrake cable at all. as far as I can remember it's only the one bolt at the hub end and three bolts on the body. Do the ones on the body first and then have a look at the RTA. You won't need to do anything with the diff to get the RTA out.
You will, however, need to move the diff if you intend getting the lower arms or upper spring carrier arms off - again though, if you're doing all of the bushes in the rear subframe then just fetch it off the car and you'll have lots of room to work on it then.
Where are you based out of interest (sure I've asked you before actually).
EDIT: Are the bushes in the arms knackered? I didn't bother re-bushing mine as they seemed fine, I only did the subframe to body bushes and the rear trailing arm front bushes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [TW]Fox
What is this guy doing with an M5
Quote:
Took it for a drive and the front part of the outer arch on the passenger side decided it wanted to be a knife and cut a nice groove into the tyre whenever i accelerated or turned
I have now knocked it in with my trusty hammer.....snip
I had a look at the threads on the M5 board. Turbo reminds me of a guy I used to know....I once saw him riding along on a motor bike hitting the fuel pump with a hammer... he was an idiot as well.
Either put some legal tyres on it or sell it before you ruin it.
Originally Posted by [TW]Fox
What is this guy doing with an M5
Quote:
Took it for a drive and the front part of the outer arch on the passenger side decided it wanted to be a knife and cut a nice groove into the tyre whenever i accelerated or turned
I have now knocked it in with my trusty hammer.....snip
I had a look at the threads on the M5 board. Turbo reminds me of a guy I used to know....I once saw him riding along on a motor bike hitting the fuel pump with a hammer... he was an idiot as well.
Either put some legal tyres on it or sell it before you ruin it.
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Soldato
Either put some legal tyres on it or sell it before you ruin it.
No, no. Just sell it. Poor, poor M5
You sir (turbo, that is) deserve only a vauxhall corsa B. Diesel. Non turbo.