*** Car Wash / Valet / Detailing Thread ***

I'm looking to give my Dads car a really basic polishing with a Ryobi DA polisher, nothing extreme, just to freshen it up a bit and give him something to smile about.

I have the Ryobi, and I'm going to get some Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions 1 & Done polishing compound.

What I don't know is what pad I should stick on the Ryobi that's going to be safe and avoid my butchering the paint (I will practice a little bit first on another old work horse car though).

It is a 5 inch backing plate. There is so much information out there about pads, with different brands and different gradings, that I want to make sure I get something that isn't too hard that's going to leave marks. I'm only looking to remove miner swirls and such, not really cut into the paint.

Cheers :).

Also, how do you go about cleaning the pads off once done? I don't have an air compressor handy to blast the compounds out right now.
 
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rodders said:
This is my issue with snowfoam......

UZCgjCd.jpeg

U03Qutb.jpeg


It's like I've not even done anything.....

I can citrus it, foam it do any of that and nothing moves...
I've tried so many diff things, even DA and started again, whatever I do, muck just sticks. Even Gyein wet coating it still sticks.
Wheels are cermaic coated, they clean up and bead well, but only with contact washing.

I've tried BH touchless, but even that isnt great.

I always need a contact wash, but others seem to able to get away with just a snowfoam.
Click to expand...

That seems crazy. With a basic sealant on I can get away with a foam and then pressure wash to clean 90%
 
That's pre pressure wash, but even then it doesn't all come off.
Its just shown no signs on dissolving it at all.
One bit on the wing, even after pressure washing, didn't budge.
 
rodders said:
That's pre pressure wash, but even then it doesn't all come off.
Its just shown no signs on dissolving it at all.
One bit on the wing, even after pressure washing, didn't budge.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by "that's pre pressure wash" - are you not pressure washing the snow foam off?
 
@rodders
how long has that been on the paintwork before you snowfoam the car?

is your ratio correct ?
4% PIR ?

you want to snow foam the car to a DRY car, let it dwell for a few minutes, then pressure rinse off
 
ShiWarrior said:
@rodders
how long has that been on the paintwork before you snowfoam the car?

is your ratio correct ?
4% PIR ?

you want to snow foam the car to a DRY car, let it dwell for a few minutes, then pressure rinse off
Click to expand...
I've done all the correct PIR calcs.

How long has what been on the paintwork before snowfoaming?
 
rodders said:
Yes, I just left it to take a photo and show.
Shouldn't it have at least showed an indication that it's done something?
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Not really, unless the car is absolutely caked with mud.

You shouldn't be leaving it so long it's virtually dry, you should be pressure washing it off whilst it's still a foam on the car.

It softens and loosens dirt so that the pressure washing can effectively clean almost everything off, you won't see it 'dissolve' dirt like I think you're expecting.
 
Parsley said:
I'm looking to give my Dads car a really basic polishing with a Ryobi DA polisher, nothing extreme, just to freshen it up a bit and give him something to smile about.

I have the Ryobi, and I'm going to get some Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions 1 & Done polishing compound.

What I don't know is what pad I should stick on the Ryobi that's going to be safe and avoid my butchering the paint (I will practice a little bit first on another old work horse car though).

It is a 5 inch backing plate. There is so much information out there about pads, with different brands and different gradings, that I want to make sure I get something that isn't too hard that's going to leave marks. I'm only looking to remove miner swirls and such, not really cut into the paint.

Cheers :).

Also, how do you go about cleaning the pads off once done? I don't have an air compressor handy to blast the compounds out right now.
Click to expand...

If it's an all in one 'diminishing' compound then a green hexlogic pad, you can use yellow rupes if you don't want so much cut.

For cleaning between sets you can use a toothbrush to run over the face of the pad while you run it at low speed. For washing I just use washing up liquid, rinse well and give it a quick spin out. Get 2/3 pads so you can swap to a clean pad after a couple of panels.

Gave the Mazda 3 a quick going over, need to fill in a couple of stone chips and give it a light correction but that might have to wait.






 
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Janesy B said:
If it's an all in one 'diminishing' compound then a green hexlogic pad, you can use yellow rupes if you don't want so much cut.

For cleaning between sets you can use a toothbrush to run over the face of the pad while you run it at low speed. For washing I just use washing up liquid, rinse well and give it a quick spin out. Get 2/3 pads so you can swap to a clean pad after a couple of panels.

Gave the Mazda 3 a quick going over, need to fill in a couple of stone chips and give it a light correction but that might have to wait.






Click to expand...

I’ve been looking at Mazda 3’a - Really good looking cars and the interior on these really looks a nice place to be.

On the car cleaning front I nipped in to Halfords today and ended up with a couple of Autobrite Clearance Items as they have stopped stocking them.

Autobrite Just Wheels (Wheel Shampoo) and Autobrite’s Woolen Wheel Mitt to compliment the product and overall process.

Just Wheels could be perfect to use in the IK Foamer too.

 
Parsley said:
It is a 5 inch backing plate. There is so much information out there about pads, with different brands and different gradings, that I want to make sure I get something that isn't too hard that's going to leave marks. I'm only looking to remove miner swirls and such, not really cut into the paint.
Click to expand...
I used green Sonus pads (apparently a a reticulated polyester foam) ... same colour as janesy remarked, I didn't burn any paintwork,
outside temp's better for polishing now, solvents don't evaporate too fast.

..

yes that Mazda's a nice colour, more grown up than candy red.
 
jpaul said:
I used green Sonus pads (apparently a a reticulated polyester foam) ... same colour as janesy remarked, I didn't burn any paintwork,
outside temp's better for polishing now, solvents don't evaporate too fast.

..

yes that Mazda's a nice colour, more grown up than candy red.
Click to expand...

I really wanted soul red tbh, it’s a gorgeous colour
 
Janesy B said:
If it's an all in one 'diminishing' compound then a green hexlogic pad, you can use yellow rupes if you don't want so much cut.

For cleaning between sets you can use a toothbrush to run over the face of the pad while you run it at low speed. For washing I just use washing up liquid, rinse well and give it a quick spin out. Get 2/3 pads so you can swap to a clean pad after a couple of panels.

Gave the Mazda 3 a quick going over, need to fill in a couple of stone chips and give it a light correction but that might have to wait.
Click to expand...
Cheers Janesy!
 
jpaul said:
I used green Sonus pads (apparently a a reticulated polyester foam) ... same colour as janesy remarked, I didn't burn any paintwork,
outside temp's better for polishing now, solvents don't evaporate too fast.

..

yes that Mazda's a nice colour, more grown up than candy red.
Click to expand...
And cheers for that aswell :).
 
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