De-lidded 3770k!!

About 20c diff when running ibt, waiting for my liquid metal to arrive, using as5 at mo under lid.
Temps range from 60-80c, [email protected], not played about with settings too much as i'm installing my loop friday

thats a huge amount,did you scrape off all the old sealant? seems to me the lid isnt sitting flat? you could lap the underneath of the lid where it sits on the chips pcb,that would even and level it out too but dont overdo it

as5 is old hat now,mx4 is better(what im using) but the liquid pro should be even better
 
When i applied the tim i took lid back off to check then slapped it back on, kinda rushed it tbh, knowing a week later it would be off again for water. Was just thinking whilst the lid was off if i should try lapping, cant do no harm surely??

Edit, my air cooler may not be seated correctly either, never used to be able to tighten it up fully, now which it can.
 
How could you lap the underneath? ._o such a small area lol.

My temps are 22/20/23/19 currently.

I'm trying out my D-14 on the "voltage" fan control, doesn't seem to work with my case fan but works fine with my top 200mm fan.

I'd be tempted to lap mine but I know without delidding it's pointless.
 
How could you lap the underneath? ._o such a small area lol.

My temps are 22/20/23/19 currently.

I'm trying out my D-14 on the "voltage" fan control, doesn't seem to work with my case fan but works fine with my top 200mm fan.

I'd be tempted to lap mine but I know without delidding it's pointless.

stick some sandpaper to a desk and rub it back n forth;)

im running two akasa apache pwm fans on my d14,on the up4 im running a silver arrow though

yeah use some brasso to polish out the fine scratches and clean it off with alcahol
 
How could you lap the underneath? ._o such a small area lol.

My temps are 22/20/23/19 currently.

I'm trying out my D-14 on the "voltage" fan control, doesn't seem to work with my case fan but works fine with my top 200mm fan.

I'd be tempted to lap mine but I know without delidding it's pointless.

my idles are within 3c of each other its only under heavy load where there miles apart
 
Wazza mate what do you think of the Apaches? I've always been drawn to them but never bought any! Tempting to buy a couple of them for my 612S. Do you think they are better than the 120 on the D14? I might run 3 of them in push pull pull :D.

LOL WTF, I hate LUCID MVP it's really messed with my games I had to uninstall it. Some product key bug now I have to reactivate windows over the phone.

Update: My Bitfenix Recon doesn't have much to do anymore. :D

Also 4.5GHz -0.020V offset 1.24V so far so good.
 
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haha lucid,its not that its the igpu,its very flakey when your cpu is overclocked,was for me anyway

and yeah the apaches are good,i hate a noisy pc,just swap over the fan mounting plastic bits and wire and they fit perfect,max they spin upto is around 1400rpm,two are quiet idk how three would fair

the stock noctua fans are too loud for me esp the 140mm fan
 
Well if 2 are quiet 3 wouldn't be much more, I think the Noctuas are silent at 900 RPM lol but my ears are ruined. The 140mm fan has so much airflow I would miss it, you got any pictures of your D-14 with the Apaches? :)
 
trouble is the noctua's arnt pwm,you dont need them running at full chat all the time,the akasa cool just as well if not better and scale up n down depending on temps

iwj6mv.jpg
 
I'm using my voltage fan regulation on the UP4 TH and tbh it is working brilliantly. Well pleased, I don't really need my D-14 fans running to keep the CPU under temperature, I have it mostly to cool my case lol.

Thank's for posting the pic, actually not very keen on the frames on them fans, are they the brown ones or black? Sorry can't tell if it's the camera or my eyesight lol.
 
brown,you can buy black though,im not fussed about colours or neatness as you can see:D

they are good fans though,ive used loads

you can hook the noctuas up to a fan controller if you wanted
 
Yeah my noctua are usually on the Recon controller, I just like the look of the Apaches for PWM and the colour. This voltage response from the motherboard is just easier it responds instantly to the load temps as well. :D I see a pair of them Apaches in my hands in the future!
 
what did you use for 2133mhz samsung green? ive forgotten qpi/vtt,dram,timings

they ran sweet on my asus board but this ones more tricky
 
I use 1.050 VTT, I've left the LLC on auto which is "Extreme" for me so it's about 1.060V under load, 1.500 PLL, 2133MHz 9-11-11-21 TRFC 96 1T 1.5V for me, I think the voltage can go lower but haven't tried since happy with 1.5V lol.
 
I use 1.050 VTT, I've left the LLC on auto which is "Extreme" for me so it's about 1.060V under load, 1.500 PLL, 2133MHz 9-11-11-21 TRFC 96 (8pack said 114 if not stable) 1T 1.5V for me, I think the voltage can go lower but haven't tried since happy with 1.5V lol.

How did i manage to just quote myself lol. :D
 
Heres a nice guide for de-lidding


Please Read:

Caution

This thread is pinned as a convenience only and does not constitute endorsement by AVSIM. By de-lidding your CPU you WILL void your warranty and could accidentally damage your processor. AVSIM does not recommend any process or equipment alterations that does not adhere to the original equipment manufacturers specifications or operating procedures. If you follow the de-lidding procedure outlined here, you do so at your own risk. Avsim is not liable for any damage.

SpiritFlyer

What's this de-lidding business?
De-lidding is a procedure used by overclockers/modders to remove the Integrated Heat Spreader (IHS) from their CPU. It is best accomplished with a bare razor blade or an exacto knife. It is being performed by overclockers of Ivy Bridge chips (Intel 3xxx line, excluding the 38xx and 39xx chips) and should not/cannot be performed on any other modern Intel chips.

Background/theory:
So Ivy Bridge runs hot when you overclock, specifically when you overvolt. This is due to a manufacturing decision Intel made with Ivy Bridge to use a Thermal Interface Material (TIM) between the CPU die and the IHS, rather than a fluxless solder as has been used traditionally. The TIM Intel chose is of extremely poor quality, as well as being a very thick layer. TIM does not conduct heat as well as metal, nowhere near as well in fact and so a TIM which is of poor quality to begin with, and is slathered on in a very thick layer will produce the ridiculously high temperatures that Ivy Bridge reaches when overclocked unless one performs this modification.

In order to get the most out of a CPU overclock, you have to overvolt, some chips more than others. For example, I have to run a staggering 1.5V on my chip to hit 4.9GHz with a 2.6GHz RAM speed. That is with extremely good water cooling and the best TIM money can buy, (Coollaboratory Liquid Pro) in addition to flat mating surfaces achieved via lapping (sanding down to flat). Lower temperatures means your chip will need lower voltage so in theory a chip at say 0 degrees C operating temperature will require a lower voltage (Vcore) to hit say 5GHz than one running at 80 degrees C.

Necessary equipment:
Razor blade/exacto knife
rubbing alcohol
aftermarket TIM

Time for procedure:
5-15 minutes

Procedure:
Take your razor blade and gently slide it in under the IHS at any corner of the CPU like so:

delid1.jpg 41.02K 39 downloads

You then want to work the blade side-to-side:

delid2.jpg 58.33K 25 downloads
delid3.jpg 53K 25 downloads

Once you have done this you will feel the blade can now be pushed in further, go ahead and do so now using your thumb like this. You can continue pushing until about this point, be careful not to go in too far or you may contact the CPU die and potentially damage it. If you push the blade in and feel resistance, STOP!

delid4.jpg 55.99K 27 downloads

Next you will want to "sweep" along the edges, working the blade in on the sides rather than the corners, using each "cleared" corner as a starting point to sweep the edges. This is what "cleared" corner should look like:

delid5.jpg 52.09K 23 downloads

Repeat this procedure at all 4 corners. Once you are done, clearing the corners and sweeping the sides it may be necessary to further sweep the sides as seen here:

delid6.jpg 47.79K 26 downloads
delid7.jpg 47.46K 26 downloads

When done you will be able to simply lift off the IHS like this:

delid8.jpg 65.63K 30 downloads

The next step is to clean off the thermal paste with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. No special instructions here. The next step is to remove the epoxy from the CPU package. You can simply use your fingernail to scrape away the black epoxy all around the edge of the CPU package. This will help to ensure the IHS sits as close to the CPU die as possible and allow us to use the least amount of TIM. When done it will look like this:

delid9.jpg 48.59K 28 downloads

The final step is to apply your choice of TIM. I recommend using a liquid metal TIM such as Coollaboratory Liquid Pro or Liquid Ultra, Phobya Liquid Metal is a good option as well. In my testing, temperature drops by 20-30 degrees C over the stock thermal paste with the use of any liquid metal TIM when applied properly. Note: it may be necessary to apply some liquid metal to the underside of the IHS. You can check this by placing the IHS on the CPU die (simply let it rest, no force required, no need to use any adhesive to re-attach either) and placing the CPU back in the socket on the motherboard. You then use the CPU retention mechanism to hold it in place. Remove the CPU from the socket and the lid from the CPU to check the contact of the TIM. If you don't see a nice even splotch of TIM on the underside of the IHS go ahead and apply a thin layer of TIM to the underside of the IHS and then reinstall the CPU in the socket as described above.

For further temperature reduction one can lap their IHS (top side only!) and heatsink/waterblock base.

Good luck, and happy overclocking!
 
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