De-lidded 3770k!!

This maybe??


Without playing games of carbon fiber super strands, etc., the thinest strong wire you can buy is music wire, also called spring steel wire. It is very hard - it will damage most diagonal wire cutters - and can be bought down to hair thin. Anchor wire is a source for longer amounts, K&S Engineering sells 3' pieces in their hobby metals displays.


Edit. After thinking about wire/line method in theory sounds promising but there may be a problem, to make it work the pcb would have to be held in a diamond orientation so that you could try and cut through the corner which would give the least resistance but in doing so may damage the corner of the pcb
 
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I picked up a mini scraper from our local hardware shop, it looks just the job, very very thin blade and a small plastic handle so you have good control over it, I'm yet to attempt it as i'm pretty scared of ruining a £250 part to my PC.

here is a picture of it, this is actually close to actual size on my screen of 1920x1080, it's a little smaller irl than the picture.
rDmhJ68x.jpg


and the blade
bmgdLTOFG.jpg
 
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Why don't people use plastic shims? If you sanded the edge of a bit of thin plastic until it was as sharp as a blade that would almost certainly do the trick and would probably be unable to scratch the PCB.
 
hey Nickolp, tnx for the tip, I'll try a local hardware store either Bricostore or Dedeman, I heard they have all sorts of bonding sealants, I hope I'm going to find one suitable for my purpose.

Edit: I've got an hdmi-dvi adapter and I tested the iGPU. Everything is ok with the integrated graphics no artifacts or anything to complain.

I took a better picture with the nicked area I suspect to be the culprit for the non function of the channel A. It is located in the top right.
I guess 2 or 3 of the traces are interrupted, can't say for sure if it is so or the area isn't scratched at all being covered with the green paint.

picture

The entire album with all the pictures I took is here.
 
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negura_b said:
hey Nickolp, tnx for the tip, I'll try a local hardware store either Bricostore or Dedeman, I heard they have all sorts of bonding sealants, I hope I'm going to find one suitable for my purpose.

Edit: I've got an hdmi-dvi adapter and I tested the iGPU. Everything is ok with the integrated graphics no artifacts or anything to complain.

I took a better picture with the nicked area I suspect to be the culprit for the non function of the channel A. It is located in the top right.
I guess 2 or 3 of the traces are interrupted, can't say for sure if it is so or the area isn't scratched at all being covered with the green paint.

picture

The entire album with all the pictures I took is here.
Click to expand...

couple of marks on there, i think your lucky to have it still working, but +rep for your bravery

Number_25 said:
How do you get the lid attached again?
Click to expand...

you can get some heat resistant sealant but imo i wouldn't bother, just hold the lid in place as you close the retaining mech.
 
Nickolp1974 said:
couple of marks on there, i think your lucky to have it still working, but +rep for your bravery.
Click to expand...

Heh, thanx Nikol, I don't know how much was bravery and how much was naive-ity. I was sure it is going to be easier to be removed than it actually was.
The damn flexible razor blade is responsible for the marks left there, and some of my eagerness to have it sorted out and lack of patience. When i noticed that I kind of scratched it I thought it was completely damaged.
I removed that already dry TIM and placed some Gelid instead both on the naked core and on the heatspreader. I was afraid it won't start, and it didn't as I initially plugged the ram into usual slots the first and the third.
Seeing the motherboard kept hanging on the same error code I was disappointed and cursing Intel for the cheap TIM and my stupidity I gave up for couple of days. Then came back one day with the idea of using only one memory module and kept changing the dimm's until by my huge surprise it finally booted up.

Now I think that if I'd have some microscope I'd find some conductive ink and try to fill the gaps in the traces, one by one, in the manner used a decade ago while linking the Athlon's Palomino L1 traces in order to unlock the multiplier. I think it might work. Then paint the pcb back with the green pcb paint and close the lid back with some sealant.
Ahh how I miss now my Leica MZ12 from a decade ago job :)
 





Before:


After:


Only used Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme under the IHS as that's what I had. Wanted to use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra but didn't warrant the cost of ordering a tube before I knew I could get the IHS off so...
 
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suprised no chinese or other group hasnt made a tool for this

find measurements of the paste on the chip and as long as it doesn't go onto the parts it can damage it should be easy. measure from edge of cpu to edge of paste simples.

shouldn't be hard to manufacture

who wants to be a millionaire :D
 
It's easy as it is

I used a Stanley blade on one corner to get it started, just applied pressure by rocking it in slightly
I then used a plastic card, similar to a bank card that I had sanded with some wet and dry on one edge to create a sharp plastic edge
As you can see by my pictures, no damage at all and it was off in seconds
 
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