I've put a lot of hours into this and got as far as the academy part. It's just ultimately a chore and boring and so unrewarding that I have given up. This style of game with no real story or sense of progression fits the linear style of older DS games, but it's just doesn't work as open world IMHO. You get good enough in an area to more than hold your own and eventually outlast the boss, move to the next and it is rinse and repeat.
Farm for souls/runes
Git gud
Fight boss and not get a hit in
die
Farm for souls/runes
Git gudder
Fight boss and get them to 50%
die
Farm for souls/runes
Git gudder
Fight boss and almost win
die
Farm for souls/runes
Git gudder
Fight boss
win without knowing why it worked this time beacsue you did nothing different than the first few times.
Move to next area and do it all again.
IMHO it's not open world, it's a large boring expanse that you roam around hunting for content.
Example quest
A bad man stole my necklace, can you get it back for me
Yeah sure
You will find him down the road at an abandoned house.
I look around and I'm in a shallow marsh/lake and think, "what road"?
No map marker, no general direction and no roads to go down. I'm not asking for HUD markers showing exactly where to go, but is it really too much for this person to say "I've marked a general area on your map?
Some tips for those perservering
When mounted on a horse, left trigger/button on a joypad will hit to the left side
Holding down on the item selection button will bring it straight to the first item you have equipped. So have your estus/health flask there to quickly replenish health in a fight. Same for your favourite magic spell.