EV general discussion

Can't be many EV drivers who sit for hours on a 100kw charger.
Dunno I pulled up next to some Tesla that was pulling 21kw. He was oblivious as it was a rental and he had already been there 45mins wondering why it wasn’t even half full yet. A lot of cars won’t even get 100kW on said charger, let alone sustain it. Especially in cold weather. 100kW chargers should really be advertised as up to 100kW as the car will decide how much it can take (or some power share which is even more annoying )
 
I can see why you don't use public chargers if charging for an hour takes you hours. Or why you think going slower is faster, then ignore an app or apps that work all that out in an instant.
You said you couldn’t be sat there for an hour. Obviously you got units a wrong and saw 80 less than 100 so assume it will take less than an hour However it’s not that simple. So why make out it is to a new person trying to learn.

Look at charging curves.

I have access to 300kW in the work car park. I guess the 1MW charger we also have would charge my 58kwh battery in 4mins going by your logic


Going 68 vs 72mph is the difference between having to stop and not on my regular trip. And cullompton ionity has traffic lights getting off and on the A38. So yes it takes longer. Apps are just crude calculators that anyone who can do maths can work out, if the car says 130 miles left and you have 150 to go then you need a boost of 5kwh which takes 5mins at 60kw. Or do you need an app for basic maths
 
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The stress is largely in your own head. Buy the right vehicle and it’s no bother at all. The majority of motorway service stations have loads of chargers and so loads of locations just off the motorway.

Why do you need to stay for an hour? Many cars are good to go with a quick 15 min top up. By the time you’ve been for a quick pee and got back to the car, it’s added 100 miles. You’d have already driven 200 to get there.

I’ve taken my old car into Europe a few times and that only had a 220 mile real world range. It’s also been up to Scotland and back if you prefer to keep things domestic.

I’ve towed a caravan 320 miles down to Devon (and back) behind my current car. Towing deletes 40% to 50% of your range depending on conditions. I probably wouldn’t recommend going out to buy a caravan but it’s not actually that different to doing the same journey in a car like a e2008 with its relatively small battery.

Yes, that's implied by what I wrote, that it would cause me stress. It would be in my own head, and I acknowledged that lots of people do obviously manage it.
 
I'm not into the whole buy a new car every 3 years thing, I usually keep cars for as long as is practical really, I've only ever changed a car because I need something else. One of our cars we've had for 12 years now, the other car I replaced 2 years ago (with a Kia which I'm not impressed with tbh) but had the previous car 7 years only replacing due to age.

Electric appeals to me as the wife has just changed Jobs and now only works 2 miles down the road. In the summer she plans to cycle but in the winter it's not practical so she has to drive.

If you download the ABRP app (a better route planner) you can input different EVs with different battery capacities and models with different charging rates.

Then plan some potential journeys. You can input parameters like speed, weight (passengers luggage) weather, temps if you want to stop more often or less often and it will work out the journey for you.

If you do this for different EVs, and the same EV with different spec, you see how different EVs deal with the journey. How many stops and for how long. It's very handy for EV shopping.

You can also fact check people's claims of needing to charge for hours, or how many times they need to stop or do you need to drive slow or fast.

Personally I don't drive my ICE car with the needle bouncing of the red and the fuel light on and I don't do it with an EV either.
 
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Biggest issue with ABRP. Topography, Battery Temperature and wind. It ignores all them so it’s still just guessing

Here’s an idea. You have a 60kwh car. It’s using 3.6 for your first 20 miles of your trip. That’s what its consumption will be for the rest so do some maths
 
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No I don't, which if you read what I had written properly you would know that I do not.

However I've come to that opinion based on available information such as this

https://www.statista.com/topics/119...tructure-in-the-united-kingdom/#topicOverview

That said if you read what I've written (which you evidently havnt) I've also stated that there are lots of ev's with high mileage for sale, which by itself (in the way I've written it) implies that I may well be wrong.

When looking to purchase new technology it is expected that one would do their own research and decide if it meets their needs or not.

I'm looking at buying one for a specific use case I think one would be suitable for.

I'm happy to be told I'm wrong, but in a respectful manor without condescending attitude
Condescending attitude?
I merely questioned your ownership of an ev as you remarked on the charging infrastructure not being up to scratch, this i took as you must have owned one at some point.

Sorry if i touched a nerve.
Btw you don't appear to be happy to be told you are wrong.;)
 
You said you couldn’t be sat there for an hour. Obviously you got units a wrong and saw 80 less than 100 so assume it will take less than an hour However it’s not that simple. So why make out it is to a new person trying to learn.

Look at charging curves.

I have access to 300kW in the work car park. I guess the 1MW charger we also have would charge my 58kwh battery in 4mins going by your logic


Going 68 vs 72mph is the difference between having to stop and not on my regular trip. And cullompton ionity has traffic lights getting off and on the A38. So yes it takes longer. Apps are just crude calculators that anyone who can do maths can work out, if the car says 130 miles left and you have 150 to go then you need a boost of 5kwh which takes 5mins at 60kw. Or do you need an app for basic maths

The app works out traffic and weather conditions on route, including wind and temps Using a vast dataset and live data from vehicles on the route ahead of you.

But I'm sure your simple maths are more accurate.
 
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ABRP is very good, but tbf any car made in the last 2 years, will have fairly stable software that will be accurate for travelling up and down.

Since i had the car i expected headaches, but i prepared myself a little, and said if driving and charging an EV is so sodding easy for 75% of my time, that the potential headaches for the remaining 25% is worth it. Ive done 11k in mine since October, and ive had 2 bad experiences, once was when i didnt check the nav for charger occupancy at a site in Slough. And the other one was at Tesla Stoke, i was getting 40kwh speeds, thankfully i only needed 5KW to get home, so no biggie. Tesla, ionity, osprey and electroverse, make life sooo easy tbh.
 
The app works out traffic and weather conditions on route, including wind and temps Using a vast dataset and live data from vehicles on the route ahead of you.

But I'm sure your simple maths are more accurate.
Impressive how you have moved away from the charge speed to now go on about planning the routes. Well done.

As there are people who don’t want to use apps when driving. It’s not like you HAVE to use them either. Not sure what data other vehicles are sharing? It’s a crude calculator not a neural network
 
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Yes, that's implied by what I wrote, that it would cause me stress. It would be in my own head, and I acknowledged that lots of people do obviously manage it.

Using ABRP on a recent long journey full loaded car in freezing conditions was accurate within a few % for me. Also showed the chargers ahead and I could see people starting and ending charging on the route ahead, and I was filtering on chargers with 4 or more spaces. So very high % of avoiding queues.

Took the majority of the anxiety out of it when you do it a few times and realise you can rely on it.

Oh and you can set minimum and maximum charging limits. So arrive with 20% or 5% or leave at 85 or 95 when you are planning a long journey.

That's only for long journeys. Which is about 5% of my journeys. The rest of the time I don't think about it. Just plug it in when I get home if it needs it like a mobile phone.
 
Largely agree but I wouldn't say totally meaningless as long as you know the potential problems with it - especially the older Leafs it often isn't far off the mark.

Yep the single and only exception to every single EV, other than some older Nissan vehicles, none of them tell you the SoH of the pack from turning the car on, and even the Nissan's just use 12/12 bars etc, and it isn't linear so again not very helpful at all. e.g 6/12 bars is not 50%, and 10/12 isn't 83.3%.

I'd suggest you don't ever again assess a vehicles SoH for the pack based on the screen display, as it is about as valuable as kicking some tyres and determining the car is in good order if they are inflated, or indeed rubbish if they are flat.
 
Yep the single and only exception to every single EV, other than some older Nissan vehicles, none of them tell you the SoH of the pack from turning the car on, and even the Nissan's just use 12/12 bars etc, and it isn't linear so again not very helpful at all. e.g 6/12 bars is not 50%, and 10/12 isn't 83.3%.

I'd suggest you don't ever again assess a vehicles SoH for the pack based on the screen display, as it is about as valuable as kicking some tyres and determining the car is in good order if they are inflated, or indeed rubbish if they are flat.

Yet in my experience it is often pretty indicative - you don't really get poor state batteries showing good range, and more often than not if it is showing poor range a good chance the battery has seen better days.
 
Yet in my experience it is often pretty indicative - you don't really get poor state batteries showing good range, and more often than not if it is showing poor range a good chance the battery has seen better days.

Sadly you are just flat out wrong in this case. I've also yet to see an EV with a ruined battery that wasn't an early Nissan, or a very new car like an iPace with a faulty module/cell, and they are all still in warranty as they've not been out 8 years. Saw a Zone that was Cat S with a broken pack, but it told you that from the error code, not from the range on the dashboard.
 
Impressive how you have moved away from the charge speed to now go on about planning the routes. Well done.

As there are people who don’t want to use apps when driving. It’s not like you HAVE to use them either. Not sure what data other vehicles are sharing? It’s a crude calculator not a neural network

I moved away from it because I realised why you take things literally and don't get analogies.

I think you need to answer any questions about live data for yourself.
 
Sadly you are just flat out wrong in this case. I've also yet to see an EV with a ruined battery that wasn't an early Nissan, or a very new car like an iPace with a faulty module/cell, and they are all still in warranty as they've not been out 8 years. Saw a Zone that was Cat S with a broken pack, but it told you that from the error code, not from the range on the dashboard.

Bjorn and other YouTubers have had cars of other makes with battery problems. With a variety of symptoms. They didn't look at range in isolation they would have dug deep into the battery reports and stats.
 
Oh dear, using a GoM to assess battery health is akin to saying a light year is a measurement of time.

I could drive my EV from 100% to 0% at 70mph on a motorway and the GoM would tell me I have a range of 220 miles. The day before I could take the scenic route at 40mph average and it will tell me I have 270 miles of range.

Exact same car, exact same battery, very different range. In fact Rroff would look at this discrepancy as the car losing 20% of its state of health in one day.

The GoM is a predictor of your range given your current driving style. It absolutely will not give you battery state of health. The clue is in the name GoM = Guess ‘o’ Meter.

The only way to get a SoH for an EV is to get a full battery health check.
 
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I moved away from it because I realised why you take things literally and don't get analogies.

I think you need to answer any questions about live data for yourself.
I don’t get your analogies you mean, Riding a bike is like charging a car. Wot.

Live data is only via 3rd party API or OBD2 dongles on ARBP. Suggest you do some reading like you were championing earlier. So remind me. How is arbp getting info from the cars in front? It isn’t. It’s just got a reference car vs consumaption database which is just relying battery % and miles driven just like tronity use for their journey calcs, pretty inaccurate on short trips

No doubt you are going to pick up something else and go off on another tangent again to avoid the points made


How’s that 100kWh charger? Haven’t even realised yet have you?
 
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ABRP is very good, but tbf any car made in the last 2 years, will have fairly stable software that will be accurate for travelling up and down.

Since i had the car i expected headaches, but i prepared myself a little, and said if driving and charging an EV is so sodding easy for 75% of my time, that the potential headaches for the remaining 25% is worth it. Ive done 11k in mine since October, and ive had 2 bad experiences, once was when i didnt check the nav for charger occupancy at a site in Slough. And the other one was at Tesla Stoke, i was getting 40kwh speeds, thankfully i only needed 5KW to get home, so no biggie. Tesla, ionity, osprey and electroverse, make life sooo easy tbh.

For someone without an EV it's a useful tool to check different EVs and Journeys. And forum fud.

As you say something similar is built into most new EVs. But even there you can plan your next EV. Or plan journeys while your in the coffee shop.
 
Sadly you are just flat out wrong in this case. I've also yet to see an EV with a ruined battery that wasn't an early Nissan, or a very new car like an iPace with a faulty module/cell, and they are all still in warranty as they've not been out 8 years. Saw a Zone that was Cat S with a broken pack, but it told you that from the error code, not from the range on the dashboard.
Oh dear, using a GoM to assess battery health is akin to saying a light year is a measurement of time.

I could drive my EV from 100% to 0% at 70mph on a motorway and the GoM would tell me I have a range of 220 miles. The day before I could take the scenic route at 40mph average and it will tell me I have 270 miles of range.

Exact same car, exact same battery, very different range. In fact Rroff would look at this discrepancy as the car losing 20% of its state of health in one day.

The GoM is a predictor of your range given your current driving style. It absolutely will not give you battery state of health. The clue is in the name GoM = Guess ‘o’ Meter.

The only way to get a SoH for an EV is to get a full battery health check.

You are both adding things on top of what I am actually saying and I understand enough about the different usage impact on range to have some idea when the impact is likely within expected for that, etc.
 
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