Garden room / posh shed /workshop build log

dlockers · 11 Jul 2024 at 22:45

Buffman said:
Hmmm I'm hoping I don't have to redo it . It is quite minor only when my whole bodyweight stands on one joist.

Why would you keep more? Does the top section. Actually add strength?

I imagine it adds something - you've basically just got 4 pretty small nails otherwise. The PIR will firm it up laterally though.

Buffman said:
Also fyi @dlockers I got the ecoscape and bison cladding samples. The ecoscape is a lot thinner and looks a bit more "premium" I think I'll probably go for that but bet the price is murder too (looks like 1.5* bison price.

Ah man it is a rotter. I am going Southern Sheeting.
I am totally broke and the 0% card I've been spanking is pretty much maxed at £8k now. Going to ring my bank manager in the AM and see if he can increase it - wanted to get a desk, monitor, plasterboard, flooring etc :cry:

WillyNelson · 12 Jul 2024 at 21:48

Interesting build and looks like quite a job! I’ve been building a 3x3.5m shed/workshop at the end of my garden. Just about finished the structure and onto the roof, cladding and insulation now.

Terrace house with no garden access for concrete foundations so I’ve built the base on 9 concrete block pads to give about 75-100mm airflow below the floor. 100mm of PIR in the floor for insulation and then 18mm OSB. Then the walls built off that.

Buffman · Saturday at 07:27

Where did you get your coach bolts from @dlockers and did you use 100 or 110/120mm length m10s?

These don't look too bad a price

Easyfix General Purpose Coach Bolts Carbon Steel Bright Zinc-Plated M10 x 110mm 50 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. BZP. Mushroom head. Partially threaded. Nuts supplied. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

aVdub · Saturday at 08:19

Buffman said:
It is quite minor only when my whole bodyweight stands on one joist.

I would add some packers in the area of the sound and move them around until it stops, then remove and pop a hole through the timber and either using an impact drill, hammer in some stainless thread bar (placing locking nut and support plate in before hammering) or dig out around and add as you've previously done with the other thread bar with a bag of postcrete (stainless not required)

dlockers · Saturday at 14:08

Buffman said:
Where did you get your coach bolts from @dlockers and did you use 100 or 110/120mm length m10s?

These don't look too bad a price

Easyfix General Purpose Coach Bolts Carbon Steel Bright Zinc-Plated M10 x 110mm 50 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. BZP. Mushroom head. Partially threaded. Nuts supplied. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

I haven't actually bolted it up yet - might do it today if I get chance.

I bought these:

Coach Bolt & Nut

These coach bolts and nuts have a place in almost every toolbox. They're zinc-plated and 130 mm long with an M10 thread. They are mainly used for joining timber to timber in low load-bearing applications, as well as timber joist construction.So whether you’re assembling garden furniture, making...

www.toolstation.com

I think I looked at the screwfix ones but didn't want to buy 50 lol.

Buffman · Saturday at 19:37

dlockers said:
I haven't actually bolted it up yet - might do it today if I get chance.

I bought these:

Coach Bolt & Nut

These coach bolts and nuts have a place in almost every toolbox. They're zinc-plated and 130 mm long with an M10 thread. They are mainly used for joining timber to timber in low load-bearing applications, as well as timber joist construction.So whether you’re assembling garden furniture, making...

www.toolstation.com

I think I looked at the screwfix ones but didn't want to buy 50 lol.

Ah I thought youre meant to do it before putting ceiling in?

Cheers I need to go to screwfix as I burnt out my makita impact driver today so need to buy another one

I've decided to snip all the hangers as I think it could cause undulatoons in the floor. I'm also going to glue it to the joists for parts which aren't covered by tape.

To be honest now I've got the cross battens in underneath to hold the insulation they really solid up the floor! I was surprised each one can hold 100+kg of me

aVdub said:
I would add some packers in the area of the sound and move them around until it stops, then remove and pop a hole through the timber and either using an impact drill, hammer in some stainless thread bar (placing locking nut and support plate in before hammering) or dig out around and add as you've previously done with the other thread bar with a bag of postcrete (stainless not required)

That sounds like far more effort than I can afford at this moment! Instead I've made it more solid by adding the battens and also 2x screws each side. Once I put a 22mm chipboard floor glued and screwed over it it will be fine.

dlockers · Saturday at 19:43

Buffman said:
Ah I thought youre meant to do it before putting ceiling in?

Yeah it might make it easier to remove any differences between the two lengths. I didn't have them on hand and it was too late, tho.

Buffman said:
Cheers I need to go to screwfix as I burnt out my makita impact driver today so need to buy another one

Do yourself a favour and get the best one you can afford/want to pay. My Milwaukee impact was like a chocolate teapot compared to my brothers higher end DeWalt. It was the one you get in the double kit for like 200 quid tho so I wasn't too surprised. It became an issue trying to get the tech screws through the steal when fitting the bifolds!

Buffman said:

Looks tidy - how you feeling?

Buffman · Saturday at 20:44

dlockers said:
Yeah it might make it easier to remove any differences between the two lengths. I didn't have them on hand and it was too late, tho.

Do yourself a favour and get the best one you can afford/want to pay. My Milwaukee impact was like a chocolate teapot compared to my brothers higher end DeWalt. It was the one you get in the double kit for like 200 quid tho so I wasn't too surprised. It became an issue trying to get the tech screws through the steal when fitting the bifolds!

Looks tidy - how you feeling?

Ah cool where your ceiling lengths hard to lift /did you lift them whilst they were coupled? Mine is circa 3.5 lengths plus the overhangs so circa 4m total 5*2s

For the impact driver I went for this. Tbh I don't really use it as much

Makita DTD156Z 18V Li-Ion LXT Cordless Impact Driver - Bare - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Compact design and ergonomic rubber soft-grip handle allow for comfortable use. Powerful 4-pole motor. Features a variable speed trigger and LED worklight with afterglow function. Ideal for all trade applications. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in...

www.screwfix.com

I'm quite knackered and upset it's taking so damned long! Wish I bought mini joist hangers rather than the ones that were too long for the job also.

dlockers · Saturday at 21:02

Na was fine. I just hurled them over like a caber-toss. Same with the 2.4x1.2 OSB for the roof.

Joist hangers are miserable for everyone - i think the ones that fit would have made you 2% less annoyed. They are just a crap job lol.

Buffman · Sunday at 19:24

Got most of insulation in today, just 5more slightly off 400 ones to do.

I also fired about 150 screws in total with each cross cross beam having 2 a side so that should be plenty.

Remind me @dlockers what's the purpose of the tape?

I need to foam a few dodgy spots then put tape in. I'm gonna try leave some space for D4 glue.

dlockers · Sunday at 19:42

Looks good! Tape means you have one continuous vapour barrier/separates outside from inside a bit better.

LuckyBenski · Sunday at 19:53

dlockers said:
Looks good! Tape means you have one continuous vapour barrier/separates outside from inside a bit better.

Exactly. Effectively it's taking the foil on the insulation boards and turning it into a vapour (and heat radiation) barrier.

aVdub · Sunday at 20:00

Tape?

Is this DPM on the frame and a vapour barrier between?

Buffman · Sunday at 20:01

dlockers said:
Looks good! Tape means you have one continuous vapour barrier/separates outside from inside a bit better.

LuckyBenski said:
Exactly. Effectively it's taking the foil on the insulation boards and turning it into a vapour (and heat radiation) barrier.

Ah cool is the tape meant to span across each insulation board? I was gonna leave a small gap for some d4 adhesive.

LuckyBenski · Sunday at 20:37

Buffman said:
Ah cool is the tape meant to span across each insulation board? I was gonna leave a small gap for some d4 adhesive.

Yes it bridges over the timbers. What's the point of the glue?

Buffman · Sunday at 20:55

LuckyBenski said:
Yes it bridges over the timbers. What's the point of the glue?

It takes out undulations in the boards so the surface is "flat" meant to stop creaking

dlockers · Sunday at 21:29

I wouldn't bother with glueing tbh. Vapour barrier priority - screws will suck the boards down. I doubt it'll be as undulating as you think. When i fitted my bifolds, my floor was absolutely perfect level - not a single packer.

Buffman · Sunday at 21:54

dlockers said:
I wouldn't bother with glueing tbh. Vapour barrier priority - screws will suck the boards down. I doubt it'll be as undulating as you think. When i fitted my bifolds, my floor was absolutely perfect level - not a single packer.

Hmmm I realise I'm gonna need a hell of a lot more tape than 1x 50m then due to the amount of boards. How many you get?

Do you even need a vapour barrier if it's not a lived in area? (same thinking wrt lack of vapour for the hybrid roof)

dlockers · Sunday at 21:56

Buffman said:
Hmmm I realise I'm gonna need a hell of a lot more tape than 1x 50m then due to the amount of boards. How many you get?

Do you even need a vapour barrier if it's not a lived in area? (same thinking wrt lack of vapour for the hybrid roof)

I have like 200M in stock at all times from when I PIR'ed the house lol. Yeah I'd do it - it is like a DPC equivalent. Impossible to retrofit and cheap enough to just do right now.

I actually used a vapour barrier instead of tape on mine as I had leftover.

Buffman · Sunday at 22:38

dlockers said:
I have like 200M in stock at all times from when I PIR'ed the house lol. Yeah I'd do it - it is like a DPC equivalent. Impossible to retrofit and cheap enough to just do right now.

I actually used a vapour barrier instead of tape on mine as I had leftover.

Ah cool. I think I'll just tape around the perimeter of the boards then (assuming that works and the foil taping doesn't need to be continuous?) and a little glue on the timber. I want to make sure it doesn't squeak!

To be fair standing on the insulation it is quite squeaky.