Gigabyte DS3/DS4/DQ6 Guide

well its 3:40am and I think that I may just about be heading towards being able to rebuild my new machine for the 2nd time and hopefully it'll work..

I've got a new DQ6, 6600 C2D (that i hope to overclock quietly up to something fairly meaty), the recommended geil memory at the start of this thread, an EVGA Geforce 8800 GTX, corsair 620 watt PSU (rebadged seasonic), scythe ninja heatsink, all ready to live in the new Antec P180 case (sans internal pc speaker to actually beep at me and tell me something!!! :( ).

I've spent most of the day carefully building the thing, come about 8-9pm i took it to its living place and tried turning it on.. at first i was getting uber squarking coming out of the 8800 GTX, which i think was down to the pci express outs from the PSU not being in properly... really hard to fit them all down there next to the p180s fan.

This seemed to fix it and then i got onto the meat of the DQ6 related problems... quite simply it would only turn on for about 3-4 seconds and then it'd poweroff, bizarely it would then turn itself on about 3 seconds later, and the whole cycle would repeat.

I looked at this thread and it pretty much informed my shopping cart.. I thought most problems were down to not well matched memory with the board, hence why i brought the geil ram...

Somehow in the hunt for the problem i forgot to really look over this thread again, and even now i've not had chance to read through it all.. I was being told perhaps its the chip thats not being cooled properly, or its the SATA drivers, or its the memory... in the end i undid 3 hours work and pulled it all out of the case again.. my careful attitude was falling away as the frustration increased... I got the motherboard down to itself no CPU... this would spin the fans for as long as you wanted it to do... add a cpu and it would be back to the old behaviour.

Being really focused on the cpu cooling i refitted the sink about 15 times... i even resorted to trying out the stock heatsink as it was much easier to access the push pins. I'm still not sure but i found the cover for the chip perhaps being a bit too high.. i often got the feeling that pressing to click as far down as possible in one corner of the heatsink would raise the opposite corner a little - almost as if it just couldn't be pushed flat enough, if this was the case obviously the cooling would be buggered.

Finally in desperation someone (sorry i've closed my irc app now and can't remember your name) on the overclockers irc channel gave me some suggestions.. perhaps the clear cmos jumper was enabled (it wasn't), and i guess he did a browse/search on this forum and gave me some inspirational reminders of other people having big issues... as he'd typed this to me i'd tried one last time... i flipped out the battery on the MB, just as i'd been doing this the other day with my old MB that died, trying to revive it... at the same time I tried putting a stick of memory in (i'd been running with CPU only for the longest time) ... The following boot attempt worked.. i returned to the irc channel to read the stories of problems cold booting, due to bios potentially and a lot of it clicked...

I also managed to ascertain that the motherboard + CPU - memory would do this booting, powerdown, rebooting cycle i described above... I dont know whether somehow i'd managed to fix the heatsink mating with the CPU by rejigging the socket CPU holder a little, and recleaning the chip again.. or perhaps i cleared the bios a little by pulling the battery..

All i know now is that its fans are powering up for as long as need be... ive just got to rebuild the thing into the case again tomorrow and hope it survives the trip.

Sorry to rant a lot, its just killed me the last 5 hours or so, i figured maybe an account of the madness may help someone else in the future.. I'm not out of the woods yet, but perhaps the chip, motherboard, memory, gfx card aren't faulty somewhere down the line...

If anyone has any tips after reading this, i'd really appreciate it.. if i actually get it running then i guess i can try and install windows (will it need raid drivers to install to its disks?) and also start to look into overclocking potential of the chip, case, cooling ... The setup for this generation of chips are also a bit new to me, so i'll have to reread to be sure i get my memory working 1:1 or whatever its called. On the overclock front i've heard some explanations of trying with is it a low multiplier first, whats the best rule of this?

Need to sleep, hopefully not to have nightmares, or to wake to more of them :)

Cheers
 
jimbobuk said:

You will only need SATA drivers if you're installing Windows onto RAIDed hard drives. No drivers are needed to install Windows to a single SATA drive.

Good luck with the rebuilding, and update your BIOS as soon as you can.
 
well 2nd time round i'm into the bios screen... thank god.. its built better this time, cables slightly tidier.. need to get a fan in the front of the upper chamber though, want the gfx card to be well fed..

Not even sure what setting its set to at the moment but the PC health screen shows a system temp of 34 degrees, and a CPU temp of around 18 degrees.. I never know for these health screens whether the CPU is idling, or being stressed... it does look a bit low the CPU value, i've not got a chip/MB again that doesn't report temperatures that accurately have i? i mean 18 degrees is about room temp i guess...

It also says Case Opened... i thought some hardware was needed to be connected for it to detect that.. it IS open.. will this change if i close it. Do you leave the Reset Case Open Status set to disabled..

I guess for my windows install etc it makes sense to leave it at stock... can't see much CPU information anyways, i'll go looking.

Cheers
 
should i have the Robust Graphics Booster enabled (AUTO) or not.. its warning that VGA gfx card not guaranteed to operate normally. why is it the default setting if theres no guarantee?
 
jimbobuk said:
should i have the Robust Graphics Booster enabled (AUTO) or not.. its warning that VGA gfx card not guaranteed to operate normally. why is it the default setting if theres no guarantee?

You can leave it as it is.
 
ok its all starting to come together...

Running @BIOS it tells me that I've got the F9 bios... is it worth updating from this version? This program is a little bizarre should i use it.. I selected Update @BIOS and after some messages with spelling mistakes it asked me where to install.. starting in program files.. i navigated to the @BIOS clicked ok and then it said restart.. after a restart @BIOS was gone, so i just reinstalled it off the CD..

Shame there isnt a program to gather all the latest drivers available, i guess i'll go scouting the gigabyte site... is it ok to use the UK site or is it best going straight to a US one?
 
I saw someone mention F10, this wasn't for the DQ6 I take it? do you use/trust @BIOS to do your updating? Any ideas what was going on with my description above, where updating it corrupted itself..

Is there a sticky post somewhere with overclocking tips and tricks.. I am used to using prime95, but i guess there is a new version available for C2D (well 2 cores) ... I also wonder which program to use to test the temps, it seems too low at 18-20 degrees, the heatsink fan isn't even on!!! Then again i've yet to turn off things in the BIOS so i wonder if its undervolting heavily whilst idling.. i kind of like that for coolness, and for lower power usage, but i guess people recommending turning it off means that you can't overclock with it on?

Any program that will actually tell you whats going on with your CPU at that very moment.. if it IS being underclocked/volted be nice to see it, and if so by how much.
 
as its a brand new DQ6 board (that came with F9 firmware) its 99.999999% certain to be the 3.3 version... any idea how I may check this? can't see any mention of it on the motherboard, though its hard to see the motherboard now its all installed.
 
The rev is usually printed beside the motherboards model on the board.

F10 is the latest final DS3 BIOS. There is a DQ6 f10 beta BIOS, but it's probably best to avoid it until it gets final. And I update mine through the Q-Flash option within the BIOS. You can use a floppy or a memory stick to do it.

There's a huge Gigabyte thread further down this forum that deals more with overclocking than this one.

Coretemp is probably the best for watching temps. And CPU-Z and Everest will keep you upto date with what's going on. You've probably got Speedstep enabled (Eist) which will be dropping your speed at idle.

And you can test both cores with Orthos.
 
thanks, i'll try to find that other thread some time.. to be honest after all the troubles I may hold off overclocking till i need it.

As i'm interested in running my machine quietly a lot of the time I may have to really try leaving speedstep on... is it still possible to get decent overclocks with speedstep still enabled? Is anyone else doing it so that their machine is less stressed whenever its idling (if it ever idles :))
 
When i have my Ballistix PC-5300 clocked over 1000mhz, i get the on-off-on-off problem.. have to have it at 1:1 for it to work @ 860mhz..

Got volts @ 2.3on ram, and 1.4 on cpu, latest mobo bios (F10, REV3.3 DS3 board)

Any ideas why this happens?
 
Cob said:
Have you tried the RAM 'Option 2' in BIOS, if there is such an option on the Rev 3.3 boards?

And what's your timings at 1000mhz?

Tried both otions, at 860 timings are 4,4,4,12, at 1000mhz i tried 5,5,5,16 with no luck at all...im dubious about trying though, seeing as i have to remove the gpu each and every time it messes up
 
Back
Top Bottom