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***Haswell -E Owners Thread***

CPU and Mobo performing really well today, survived benching and BF4 session @ 4.5Ghz.

24/7 clock is now 4Ghz + XMP 2666mhz. Memory not causing any crashes working really well. Normal volts with +0.075v. Gives 1.229v under full load at 4Ghz and downclocks to 1200mhz / 0.878v when idle. Loving this setup.

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ketma said:
What do you guys think would be a realistic overclock for 24/7 use on air with the 5820k ?
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I don't see any need to go beyond 4.0Ghz for 24/7 day to day use, gaming / web browsing etc. I like the low temps @ 4.0ghz and very quiet PC. It's so ridiculous fast anyway that I don't see the need for it to be faster :p. Only crank it further for benching, up to 4.5Ghz :D
 
ketma said:
Although mine is not a very high OC, it is stable, I left it running prime95 most of the day...perhaps I should consider a water cooling solution. Just disappointed from my own efforts when you guys are not using much volts at all...
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Not sure how stable those clocks will be with such low volts though.

To get 100% stability, I use: Normal volts: (+ 0.075v) this gives 1.229v for 4.0Ghz. V ring @ 1.15v.

Benching only: 4.4 Ghz I need 1.35v (+ 0.200v) V ring @ 1.5v and for 4.5Ghz I use 1.4v (+ 0.250v) V ring @ 1.2v, this gives 100% stability.
 
Ease said:
How are y'all choosing motherboards for your Hawell-E's? I've read CustomPC (only reviewed a couple of mobos), and had a flick through customer reviews, but still really struggling to choose.

Are the cheapy ones really much worse than the premium ones?
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Ease said:
I don't need any bells and whistles; I'd just like something really stable, with a good BIOS, and preferably a really quick boot time.

I wish mobo specifications included typical boot times with SSD/HDDs, because although there shouldn't be much difference I've noticed quite a large variety of times with different motherboards over the years.
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Any X99 board you choose will be fit for purpose, imho a lot of the boards are very overpriced for what really offer largely the same feature set as the decently priced motherboards.

In my own experience of building PC's Gigabyte is the only brand I've built with that hasn't ever been DOA or had a problem that couldn't been fixed, and always put out new bios to address issues / increase performance etc so these days I only build with Gigabyte. All the boards are the fine though tbh, if you do have problems you will get it sorted anyway while it's under warranty.

Go for the board you like the look / features of the most within your budget, all will be fit for purpose. No need to spend twice the money on a X99 board for Wifi etc if you don't need it, some are really overpriced and offer lil extra.
 
jamie1414 said:
Do you have a way to quickly switch your clock speed or something for when you're not gaming? I haven't tried over clocking with my 5960x yet as I still have a lame video card that I will be upgrading sometime later.
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I'm not sure if you mean different profiles? Or downclock when IDLE, most mobo's allow you to save different preset Overclocks, just reboot enter bios select the preset and off you go.

If you mean so the CPU downclocks when in use and not gaming, i.e CPU to be able to go into IDLE and low clocks / voltage, just don't set a fixed voltage, set CPU to Normal volts and then add what you need, so set mobo to default optimized settings, then adjust the turbo for each core to whatever speed you want, say for example 4.0Ghz. Then keep voltage @ Normal + 0.050v, this will allows your volts to boost up a bit extra to cope with the extra CPU speed and also downclock when the PC is @ IDLE.

You will need to up your VRing volts aswell, 1.15v, maybe a lil bump on other voltage settings as well, just read what your bios says they effect and give them a small bump, every motherboard has different terminology for the same things lol.
 
wazza300 said:
id still use powersaving,that's what its designed for to put less voltage through the chip depending on load ect

it still performs exactly the same at 100% stress

personal choice really but if its there and it works fine then use it I say
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^^ This,

Keep setting optimized allow turbo to go whatever speed you want, you get the benefit if extra performance under load, and power savings at idle which used way more than full load anyway.
 
Each to their own, not sure where you got that it's louder from though.. H105 has a thicker radiator, fans can run lower RPM and get rid of same amount of heat, so it's really quiet using 120mm fans.

It would come down to which rad / fans can fit in your case, for me in CM 690 III 120mm with thicker rad was ideal.

H105 Radiator dimensions: 272.5mm x 120mm x 38mm

H110 Radiator dimensions: 140mm x 312mm x 29mm

 
ALXAndy said:
I am referring to the stock fans. The Corsair SP are just prettier versions of their old SP fans which are very powerful and, very noisy.

At low speed they are not as obnoxious but when they spin up you know about it.

The H110 does pretty much the same job of cooling (within 2c) but it uses their AF fans. They're also 140mm, so they're much, much quieter than the 120mm SPs.

I'm not referring to radiator size or thickness or cooler volume or the viscosity of. All I'm saying is that Corsair's 140mm AF are quieter than the 120mm SPs which ship with the H105.
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Lol wut?

They don't need to run as fast due to the thicker rad so the 105 is quieter. Didn't you watch the vid. You can't just discount the features of the other rad and compare the fans :D

To the guy asking about cooling the 105 is whisper quiet, and does a great job on the 5820K, so if you wanna pick one up go for it.
 
GoogalyMoogaly said:
Hey guys.

I'm thinking of moving from my SB-E to Haswell-E, partly due to PCI-e 3.0 issues and partly cuz "it's just getting on a bit now" (aka upgrade itch).

Currently my 3930K is clocked at 4.4GHz, although I'm sure it'd go a bit higher.
I'm looking to go to a 5930K, what sort of OC can you expect from these on average and what speed would I need to match my 3930K?
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4.5Ghz is average, with some getting higher but at big voltage. These Haswell -E chips are monster's even at stock, so if you get 4.0Ghz > 4.2Ghz it will match a 3930K @ 4.4Ghz imho. Lower power consumption and more bandwidth with DDR4, it's worth the jump imho. The motherboards are really nice as well.
 
GoogalyMoogaly said:
OcUK do a bundle with a 3.8GHz OC, which I thought was low but then wondered if maybe the Haswell-E didn't overclock that well.
Another place offers a 4.4GHz OC, but I was wondering if that was worth it. If I can get 4.4GHz by myself then I'll get the bits and clock myself. If 4.4GHz was a good overclock though it might be worth paying the extra for a chip that would do it.

EDIT:
Need to decide on a motherboard now.
Asus Rampage V Extreme, Asus X99-WS, Gigabyte X99 SOC Force and Gigabyte X99 Gaming 7 WiFi are my current picks to choose from.
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Gigabyte SOC would be my pick from those, you should be able to reach 4.4Ghz yourself mate, no point paying extra for a pre over-clocked bundle imho.
 
Nice and stable @ 4.0Ghz and memory at 2666mhz, no memory weirdness anymore. Keeps the setting even from cold boot. Eats up gaming and encoding for breakfast. Really liking this setup (:

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sgoaty said:
Would you mind giving me a few pointers on overclocking this combo please?

I have the same cpu and ram and have only been able to boot at stock and once at 3.8ghz. Its a downgrade on my old system so far :rolleyes:

Cheers
Scott
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What I've found with this setup is changing the settings in the bios will cause the mobo to not post properly on first reboot, then a screen will display with options of restoring bios defaults etc, this makes you think it isn't stable but just ignore this and go straight back into the bios 'Enter Bios' and just press F10 save and exit again, now it will reboot into Windows.

The settings do work but for some reason always cause an error on the first reboot after saving and exiting the bios, when you go back in and press F10 it seems to save it properly and then will post into Windows.

The easiest way to OC imho, is to select CPU volts as normal, and add '+' so it's dynamic. For 4.0Ghz to be 100% stable I use +0.075. This gives up to a max voltage of 1.229v. It's rock solid, Vring only needs 1.15v at any OC on this board. Then just change the turbo clocks to whatever you desire, 4.0Ghz / 4.4Ghz etc..

With memory first XMP setting is likely to be the most stable.
 
Clov!s said:
It's a weird one, if I bench my system using fire strike extreme, it will report my actual CPU speed, but then I'll run it again 2 minutes later and it will report stock speeds, using prime95, CPUz reports actual clock speed.

Don't really know what's going on with my system, CPU @ 4.6, memory at 3400mhz, and two 970's in sli clocked to 1565/2108 I'm scoring less in most benchmarks than 290's and even 7950's :/
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Yeah something def not right there, you should be smoking your old scores..
 
Clov!s said:
How come your memory is only 2333 for 24/7 use? Mine is set to 3300Mhz all the time lol :p
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Not sure if it's the board or memory being picky. If I run it at XMP with OC CPU at some point there will be a freeze or crash, does not do this at default speed. Tbh the default speed is pretty fast, I can live with this considering how cheap relatively the setup was. Future bios updates may iron out memory bugs. Next year I'll likely move up to 32GB DDR4 higher speed anyway, so this ram is like a stopgap until then anyway :p
 
The audio on this motherboard is really impressive, unlocked Realtek DTS via optical 5.1. Awesome sound, better than my Asus Xonar's, can't fault this mobo at all at the price.

Best setup I have used, love my lil 5820k, purring along at 4.0Ghz doesn't even hit 60c :D Desktop use and full loads temps are excellent.

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