Thanks Vita, much appreciated. I will try that method as that is why I have not got around to doing it as I did not have a tool that would work in such an awkward location.
Also to add, get a long magnetic thingymabob to get any bolts that fall or the Allen key which you've grinded down. You could get some liquid metal and put it in the ratchet bit just for that Allen key to hold it.
Just a breakdown of my experience with it,
Jack car + axel standsstand wheel off on drivers side
Just behind the hub, above driveshaft on right, you'll see a dust guard. It clips from the top, just be careful as clip is plastic, take this off to make more room.
Locate recirc valve + 3 bolts two at top one behind a bolt at bottom sort of underneath the right bolt at top.
Locate boost solenoid on right hand side of recirc valve on clip. When I removed my original to replace it was a right pain, pull up and tilt towards you to take off the metal bracket. Might be stiff at first but wiggle it left right and it should help come off. Remove boost solenoid connecter on the right. Push down on clip and pull to right of you - when you put it back push down and clip and push to left. Put wire to one side out of way.
Remove the vacc line from the right of boost solenoid using a pair of needle pliers or regular but it's awkward with regulars on the clamp. This is a pain if your vacc line was proper tight on the nipple. I had to use a heat gun to soften it up and remove. You may have to end up removing the other two, one from wastegate and the other line is to the top right of it.
Once that's all done and you have space. As you're facing the recirc, top left bolt is easy. It will be very tight when you try to remove so just gently to your best ability try undo the bolt to make sure it doesn't get rounded.
Top right you may need to use two extensions but because I'm a slim guy I could get my arm in no problem using one. Again just be careful to not round the bolts.
Bottom right I'd suggest using one as with two depending on legnth it's very tight as your hands will be getting caught between hub and strut. Do it at an angle and it should come off.
With the bolts they may seem like they're not coming out or at weird angles were you may think they're ruining their threads but they'll come out. I'd suggest if you can get them out by hand towards the end of the travel and pull a tad if you can reach them. If you can't they'll stay caught on the metal boost solenoid holder.
Remove recirc valve and then remove the vacc line to it. Metal solenoid holder should come out with it but a word of warning. You'll need both hands as the regular recirc is under spring tension, fiddly without looking. So just be wary of anything which falls into the undertray. If you can manouver it to the left of you it'll help.
Do everything back in reverse and remembering that the boost solenoid holder goes over the recirc and not between it and the turbo. Also the recirc flat edge facing the top at 12 o clockish. Also keep an eye on the gaskets in the recirc. Put recirc on first then metal gasket over it. It's really fiddly.
When doing the bolts up for the recirc do the top left one first by hand if you can reach. Then bottom one then top right. But don't thread them fully, until all are in then go round doing them equally. At end of travel once you feel like loads of force is going to be used to tighten even more, don't as they won't go anymore and you'll risk messing the thread up. You could put a bit of copper slip on them if you have any but they have blue anti lock seize on them.
The ones which come with turbosmart valve are hit and miss. I used only on as one as it had a good deep head.
There are videos on YouTube and I take no liability if you damage something as my post is just from what I experienced when doing it.
It's a pain and ive had to do it twice. Estimate 2-3hours on it. If you have any questions do post in here. All the best.
