iRacing

They definitely do it around Black Friday, and usually around the end of July (I believe the anniversary of the public release back in 2008), my last two subscription purchases were 2 years ones for $89 around the end of July (2012 and 2014).

Rookies can be/will be messy, which puts some people off, as does the general feel of the sim (very Papyrus so GPL/Nascar 2003 feel), but yeah certain series like the Skippy are *generally* good races and 'go official' (8+ racers iirc) at pretty much every time slot, certainly all the 'normal' uk ones of evening/weekends. Other series are far worse in terms of participation for various reasons.
 
Thanks, I'll go with the 3 month for now then. I should then only need an extra month providing I enjoy the game, before having the opportunity to buy the longer subscriptions.
 
Spils said:
Did someone say theres a 50% off on memberships at the moment ? I need to resub, now could be the perfect time.
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Buy my pedals first :D

Seriously though, I think you'd be better off buying a T500, Overclockers have the original one at £299 at the minute. The T300 is only £30 cheaper.

Buying a set of T500 pedals or the T3A Pro's only really makes sense if you've already got a T300 or a TX wheel. Even then you'd be kicking yourself for not buying a T500 in the first place. Unless console compatibility was a consideration also.

Since a T300 plus the T3A Pro's is much more than the price of a T500, which is essentially what a T300 plus the T3A Pro pedals are.
 
What is with this menu? It has to be the most confusing thing I've come across.

Why is it that the Race button shows up as Red and I can't seem to enter? Yet the number in brackets keep going up.
 
You have to click on the red sessions in order to register for it. Once you've clicked it will start a countdown. For practice sessions you'll be able to join within around 15 seconds of
clicking. Race and qualifying sessions start at the allotted time.
 
So I've just not long finished my very first official race (well from the very start). It didn't go too well..:(

Was doing pretty well, holding 5th up until the 5th lap. Then I got nothing but issues. First, my engine starts smoking so I nursed the car back to the pits for repairs. All fixed up, the lap I just came out, the engine blows around half way through the lap. Put me out of the race.
 
Generally the engine blows for one of two reasons, overheating which is unlikely on road courses (although some damage can cause it, it's mostly an ovals/qually tape issue), and overrevving at some point, probably downshifts, I'm guessing it'd be that one... :p
 
Did a Skip Barber race at Lime Rock last night. I think that's the first time I've actually raced it, even in rookies I avoided it.

How they race GT cars in real life there is just plain mental. The race I did last night was definitely one of the hardest, concentration to the maximum. Even the smallest of errors can cost you two or three places. But the up side to that is there's always going to be a chance to get them back.

I don't know if I can cope with doing anther one this week.
 
barmyllama said:
Did a Skip Barber race at Lime Rock last night. I think that's the first time I've actually raced it, even in rookies I avoided it.

How they race GT cars in real life there is just plain mental. The race I did last night was definitely one of the hardest, concentration to the maximum. Even the smallest of errors can cost you two or three places. But the up side to that is there's always going to be a chance to get them back.

I don't know if I can cope with doing anther one this week.
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They race GT's there? What is their lap time, about 40s?
 
barmyllama said:
Buy my pedals first :D

Seriously though, I think you'd be better off buying a T500, Overclockers have the original one at £299 at the minute. The T300 is only £30 cheaper.

Buying a set of T500 pedals or the T3A Pro's only really makes sense if you've already got a T300 or a TX wheel. Even then you'd be kicking yourself for not buying a T500 in the first place. Unless console compatibility was a consideration also.

Since a T300 plus the T3A Pro's is much more than the price of a T500, which is essentially what a T300 plus the T3A Pro pedals are.
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Is the T500 better than the T300 then ? I was going to go t300 and a set of Fanatec pedals then saw your post.

I was going to pick up the t500 when the offer first went up. Then saw the T300 and read it slightly better force feedback. But never using a t500 or 300 I'm unsure which is better.

If you was in my position would you go t500 then ? Or t300 and eitehr your or a set of fanatec pedals ????
 
If you're going to be playing on PC only then I'd go for the T500.

I believe the only difference between the T500, T300 and TX wheels is console compatibility and the wheel rim they come with, and obviously the pedals.

T300 is £269, a second hand set of T500 pedals £100. A new set of T3A Pro's will be £150 ish.

Total cost £369- £419

T500 is £299 which is the same as a T300 with a T3A Pro pedal set but with a different rim.

That's a lot of extra money for PS4 compatibility.

But if you're not on a budget then I'd actually get the full Fanatec Club Sport V2 wheel base, pedals and rim set
 
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SKILL said:
Generally the engine blows for one of two reasons, overheating which is unlikely on road courses (although some damage can cause it, it's mostly an ovals/qually tape issue), and overrevving at some point, probably downshifts, I'm guessing it'd be that one... :p
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I do believe it's the downshifting I'm mainly having issues with. That should hopefully come with practice though. Am I supposed to ease of the throttle when I am shifting gears?

Also, how accurate are the physics on this game? I ask because I've played racing games before and I would spin all over, coming out of a corner would give wheel spin at the back which I'd need to control. This doesn't seem to be an issue with iRacing though?

And... am I very limited to what I can race? Yesterday I was looking at the calendar for the official races. Each hour, I could see only 3 slots. One was for an Oval track, and the others was national circuit. The circuit tracks was always using MX-5. Why can I not race in any official races with any other cars / tracks?
 
barmyllama said:
If you're going to be playing on PC only then I'd go for the T500.

I believe the only difference between the T500, T300 and TX wheels is console compatibility and the wheel rim they come with, and obviously the pedals.

T300 is £269, a second hand set of T500 pedals £100. A new set of T3A Pro's will be £150 ish.

Total cost £369- £419

T500 is £299 which is the same as a T300 with a T3A Pro pedal set but with a different rim.

That's a lot of extra money for PS4 compatibility.

But if you're not on a budget then I'd actually get the full Fanatec Club Sport V2 wheel base, pedals and rim set
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Cool thats something to look at on lunch thanks for that, I dont need console compatibility. Budget the best bang per buck possible.

I dont want to go over £400 quid though unless I can help it.

I thought the main difference between the T500 and T300 is the t300 is brushless motors direct drive, where as the T500 is belt driven with brushed motors ?????? I could be totally wrong though :p
 
Spils said:
Cool thats something to look at on lunch thanks for that, I dont need console compatibility. Budget the best bang per buck possible.

I dont want to go over £400 quid though unless I can help it.

I thought the main difference between the T500 and T300 is the t300 is brushless motors direct drive, where as the T500 is belt driven with brushed motors ?????? I could be totally wrong though :p
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Yes there are the slight differences you mention, whether one is better than the other is hard to say unless you can find a review that directly compares both wheels.

I should imagine that the diffence in feel would be very subtle, since both wheels are recognised as a T500 on the PS3 and the a T300 on the PS4.

There is a review of the T300 and the T3A Pro pedals on Inside Sim Racing's YouTube channel. Even if you don't like Mr Gangi, at least there's some more information and he has used both wheels.
 
Spacedeck said:
I do believe it's the downshifting I'm mainly having issues with. That should hopefully come with practice though. Am I supposed to ease of the throttle when I am shifting gears?
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I believe the MX5 will handle shifting without lifting on upshifts. Assuming you're using auto-blip, you shouldn't need to do anything at all on downshifts other than brake. IF you're not using auto-blip, you'll need to give the throttle a small jab marginally before you hit downshift to match the revs and stop the rears locking.

Also, how accurate are the physics on this game? I ask because I've played racing games before and I would spin all over, coming out of a corner would give wheel spin at the back which I'd need to control. This doesn't seem to be an issue with iRacing though?
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It does become an issue when you get out of MX5s :)

And... am I very limited to what I can race? Yesterday I was looking at the calendar for the official races. Each hour, I could see only 3 slots. One was for an Oval track, and the others was national circuit. The circuit tracks was always using MX-5. Why can I not race in any official races with any other cars / tracks?
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This is because you're still in Rookies. You gain access to other cars and race series by increasing your license, which you do by increasing your safety rating. SR of R3.00 will see you promoted at the end of the season, R4.00 will promote you to D instantly. At this point I would strongly recommend you concentrate solely on keeping your races clean, not fighting for positions, and getting out of rookies. It should be do-able in 4-5 races.

Once you're in D class you'll be able to race other cars, but you will need to purchase them first.
 
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