iRacing

I'm a bit annoyed that I own all the road courses but I'll need to buy an oval with a road course for next weeks Grand Am if I want to race.

Im tempted to sack it off till I get a pro wheel. For me I may as well play something like GTR2 (when I can get it working online) and race07. One of fee for the game which I can practice.
 
yeah but GTR2 and Race 07's physics and tyre modelling are vastly inferior to iracing, great for their time but they really start to show their age now.
 
I'm a bit annoyed that I own all the road courses but I'll need to buy an oval with a road course for next weeks Grand Am if I want to race.

Didn't bother getting that either, seems a waste of money when I'll only ever use it for a week. Strange selection for the series tbh, probably to just to make a few $$$.
 
Didn't bother getting that either, seems a waste of money when I'll only ever use it for a week. Strange selection for the series tbh, probably to just to make a few $$$.

I'll miss two weeks this season while I'm on holiday at the end of August, so I might still buy the track. I suppose I can race in the Prototype series next week instead.
 
I've thought about a button box a couple of times but not got around to doing anything yet, although personally I think the pre-built 'control boards' or even full boxes are way overpriced. I've got a usb gamepad here that I half-plan to repurpose into a button box, 'only' 14 digital inputs (4 axes as well in theory) but it cost £2.34 delivered from good ol' china :p

Anyway, looking at those commands, I use regularly:
brake bias (I've got it assigned to my G25 shifter in sequential mode, I always use paddles)
Enter/Exit/Tow car (one of the 2 G25 buttons)
Pit Limiter (one of the ones on the shifter pod)

But then I use the keyboard for the rest. For buttons I also have setup 2 voice chat buttons, one in-game the other for mumble, a mute for mumble, and the ignition/starter buttons on the shifter pod as well.

What you can do with button boxes (well just spare buttons in general) is use xpadder to create macros, e.g. for oval racing you can set left side tyres only for the pit stop, or no fuel, etc.

Yeah, the idea of modifying an old controller is a good one, I have done a few in the past using these sticks, they're super-easy to use with my limited soldering skills:

360_diagram2.jpg


I ended up with a couple of wonderful arcade controllers that were also Xbox 360 compatible. Unfortunately, those sticks haven't been available for a long time, they were useless for anything beyond ripping apart and modding. There's one going on [insert auction site here], but it's not much cheaper than using the SymProjects board.

So, I've plumped for SymProjects' 32-button controller and one of these (they're on sale and I couldn't resist!) - http://www.symprojects.com/shop/gi-max-gear-indicator/

I've ended up finding uses for almost all the 32 inputs, it could be a bit cluttered!

A quick question, why is there any need to have a buttons assigned to "starter" and "ignition"? I currently use auto-clutch, so presumably that is stopping me stalling in a crash. If you stalled, I could see the need for the starter, but when would you ever need the ignition?

I've not yet used the chat features, what are the differences between the 2 you mentioned?

I'll let you know how the build progresses...

Ta.
 
Have ordered a water block for my GTX 780 because iracing makes the card temp hit the max target of 80c when I run the fps uncapped and gfx maxed and during a race ive seen it judder a little as I gues the card is throttling to keep the 80c target.

With the fps set to 120 the card temp is 73c and at 100 fps its 63c but ran some test laps to check temps and 60 fps temps in 5c are but car feels crap and fps lots of judders so kep experiments 80 fps 100 and 120 and for me the game needs it set to 120 to feel as flowing and responsive as when I run it uncapped.

Ive seen a test of my card with the water block and with the card overclocked it maxed at 38c so thought ill have some of that.
 
There's anti-stall whether you use the auto-clutch or not (bit annoying, even though I'd probably get annoyed by it I'd be happy if it stalled when I screwed up :p), so the starter button is kinda useless, although when you're in the pits for repairs the engine often gets turned off and although you can just accelerate and it'll automatically start I do tend to press the button first.

Ignition (and kinda starter, although can just lift the clutch) is kinda useful in oval races where you want to save fuel under caution, can just press the button and turn off the engine to save fuel, then either lift the clutch in gear or press the starter button to get it running again, can usually get another lap or two if you do it enough/properly.

As for chat, you've got the in-game chat that everyone has, and then some people like some of the UKI Oval racers will use something else, they've picked Mumble but there's things like Teamspeak as well, completely separate to iRacing but better quality and of course can ignore the sporting code if you want :p
 
I have just moved house and rebuilt my sim rig So I will be back on Iracing soon, cant wait as I have missed it so much! Not sure what series to run, I did have aply with the Lotus 49 before I moved but that was set up on the desk, so Will try it again. It might have to be the trusty Star Mazda though!

Here she is almost finished :)

IMG_02791.jpg
 
There's anti-stall whether you use the auto-clutch or not (bit annoying, even though I'd probably get annoyed by it I'd be happy if it stalled when I screwed up :p), so the starter button is kinda useless, although when you're in the pits for repairs the engine often gets turned off and although you can just accelerate and it'll automatically start I do tend to press the button first.

Ignition (and kinda starter, although can just lift the clutch) is kinda useful in oval races where you want to save fuel under caution, can just press the button and turn off the engine to save fuel, then either lift the clutch in gear or press the starter button to get it running again, can usually get another lap or two if you do it enough/properly.

As for chat, you've got the in-game chat that everyone has, and then some people like some of the UKI Oval racers will use something else, they've picked Mumble but there's things like Teamspeak as well, completely separate to iRacing but better quality and of course can ignore the sporting code if you want :p

Lovely, thanks for the info.
 
Its 80/20 section aluminium made by ITEM, they do really cool fasteners thant dont require drilling etc but it was expensive! :O I would just buy an obutto now if I was going to do it again!

Thanks, half the fun is putting it together yourself though. Far more satisfying.
 
Thanks, presumably it's super-sturdy? Obviously, I'm not casting doubt over your engineering abilities, just the natural rigidity of the system!

Yeah really sturdy, I used to have a set of Fanantec pedals attached as well and it was fine. Im on the look out now for a better seat and it will be finished!
 
Good luck hehe.

re: the 49 - Just about starting to get the hang of it and really enjoy it, obviously I'm way off the pace but I can at least string together a few half decent laps now. It's so easy to over drive it, I often watch the laps of the fastest guy and it looks so effortless and calm.
 
re: the 49 - Just about starting to get the hang of it and really enjoy it, obviously I'm way off the pace but I can at least string together a few half decent laps now. It's so easy to over drive it, I often watch the laps of the fastest guy and it looks so effortless and calm.

That because it is, if you want to go fast thats how you drive 95% of the time. Weather it be the Lotus 49 or the MX5. To drive a race car fast. Minimum inputs minimum scrubbing of tires. <the guy who does that best usual wins.
 
I should really play this. I paid something like £12 for 3 months. I can't see myself paying full price for it though once the deal has ended.

Full price can be extremely low if you buy full year or even two year subs.

I bought a two year sub for $99, works out to about £2.66 a month.

I know that doesn't include extra tracks and cars, but it's pretty good value on its own.
 
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