LED Bulb Thread

I went through so many cable strippers before finding a decent one for CAT6. In the end the best one turned out to be some freebie naff looking bit of plastic that came free with a crimp tool.
 
Nightglow said:
Usually use 1.5mm twin & earth as mentioned above, from the downlighter to a junction box, usually Hager J501 junction box feeding say three or four fittings, or sometimes 0.75mm 3 Core( 6amps) ample rated flex,from fittings or occasionally 1.0mm 3 Core (10amps) again back to a Hager J501's, all depends on the access available.

It's impossible to get get more than one cable under the cable grip on the light fitting.

If using flex I pre-wire with a 400mm or so length all the fittings first, then a simple jobbing of connecting to junction box/ boxes.

EDIT: I always prefer to use the Prysmian Twin & Earth Cable from Screwfix compared to Toolstation cable.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/prysmian-6242y-twin-earth-cable-1-5mm-x-50m-grey/51381
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111148647564?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Ordered 4 of them.

The cable on Screwfix have ordered.

These junction boxes, i'll be able to wire in at least 4?

PS, thank you for all your help
 
After my last post about cheapo ebay LED's I got my hand in my pocket and ordered 17x branded LED's from a reputable lighting shop, I went for 4 watt GU10, and took out my old transformers so now all my lights are 230v (was 12v mr16 before)

I cant believe the difference the light is pure brilliant white, I thought the 4 watts wouldn't be enough for my bedroom and kitchen, I couldn't of been anymore wrong, if anything there a tad too bright!

I've reduced my load from nearly 1kw to less then 70 watts , and now have more light!

I just need to order another 11 now for my other rooms :( :(
 
Lisapete said:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111148647564?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Ordered 4 of them.
These junction boxes, i'll be able to wire in at least 4?
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Could have sold you four cheaper, as I have several boxes of them stashed away.

When you use them you need to make sure the cable clamp is the right way round, one way it will accept two cables, other just one cable.

Will get one out tomorrow, wire it up as I usually do it, & post photo on here for you to see.
 
DannyW said:
After my last post about cheapo ebay LED's I got my hand in my pocket and ordered 17x branded LED's from a reputable lighting shop, I went for 4 watt GU10, and took out my old transformers so now all my lights are 230v (was 12v mr16 before)

I cant believe the difference the light is pure brilliant white, I thought the 4 watts wouldn't be enough for my bedroom and kitchen, I couldn't of been anymore wrong, if anything there a tad too bright!

I've reduced my load from nearly 1kw to less then 70 watts , and now have more light!

I just need to order another 11 now for my other rooms :( :(
Click to expand...

Put them on a trailing edge dimmer, the Varilight V-Pro being among the best, & availble in various finishes.


http://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/products/...)/4085457481?gclid=CM_Zx6z22LwCFazHtAodAzUAlw

P:S: Order led lamps through Quidco, can get cashback, voucher code etc
 
I'm trying to plan the positioning of my down-lighters but was finding it difficult to imagine so decided to visualise it. I've drawn a to-scale image of the longest wall in my bedroom (419cm) and tried to layout the lights as best I could. Distances are from the centre of the lights. The height is also to scale (8ft).

ji5r.png

1px = 1cm

Any suggestions?
 
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Imy said:
I'm trying to plan the positioning of my down-lighters but was finding it difficult to imagine so decided to visualise it. I've drawn a to-scale image of the longest wall in my bedroom (419cm) and tried to layout the lights as best I could. Distances are from the centre of the lights. The height is also to scale (8ft).

ji5r.png

1px = 1cm

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Similar thing to what I did mate.

Check for beams above each point though, when my old man did his, he measured like you have, got the hole cutter out and there was a beam the other side.

I found where the beams were in relation to the first light measured the distance between each beam and made sure each light was comfortably between the beams. Took me longer but saved me the headache of fixing the ceiling.

Had to move my original plans by 10 cm because the lights on either end hit a beam.

Mine are laid out like this so just moved the end lights in by 10 cmd each.

Light-----Light-----Light

Light-----Light-----Light

Hope that makes sense :)
 
That makes perfect sense thanks.

I just wanted to get an idea of what the most "ideal" distances would be. I'll try to map them onto my bedroom ceiling next and check for beam obstructions using a stud detector (hope that works).

Is a grid pattern like the one below best:

Code: 
o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o

or an offset pattern:

Code: 
   o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o      o


   o      o      o      o
 
Imy said:
Interested to know what you mean by "choice of colour temperatures"? Is that before or after purchase?
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Before, most places offer a choice between warm/neutral/daylight and cool white. (2700k-3000k/3500k/4100k/5500k+).

I'm using warm for the wall dimmers in the living room, daylight for the spots in the kitchen and main lights in the living room, neutral for the bedroom main lights, warm for the lamps and cool for the bathroom.
 
Thought so, was just checking in-case you'd stumbled upon once that was switchable. That'd be a nice feature! Of course there are RGB ones too.

I'm going for 2700k throughout except for maybe hallway where I may use up to 3500k.

Even the 2700k's don't seem as warm as old incandescent.
 
Imy said:
That makes perfect sense thanks.

I just wanted to get an idea of what the most "ideal" distances would be. I'll try to map them onto my bedroom ceiling next and check for beam obstructions using a stud detector (hope that works).

Is a grid pattern like the one below best:

Code: 
o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o

or an offset pattern:

Code: 
   o      o      o      o


o      o      o      o      o


   o      o      o      o
Click to expand...

Personally I prefer the symmetrical design as the second design would give more light at the ends in the centre of the room. But that's my opinion.

I think I read somewhere 1 downlight for every 1m2 is optimal (don't quote me). My bedroom is about 10m2 and I have 6 downlights which is below this. I think it is now lit up really well and is a huge improvement.
 
I always prefer to use a grid layout, looks uniform & balanced, also prefer to use a even number of fittings.

But, there are occasions, when you can tweak the layout for one odd lamp, say when you have a alcove, or recess to light.

Black Dynamite: Take 1 downlight for every 1m2 is optimal, worked with a 50w halogen lamp, but it's gone out the window with the LED lamp in my opinion with the various wattage available now in led lamps.
 
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I was going to do 12 downlights in my 12.4m2 bedroom. If it turns out to be overlit, I could set the max brightness level lower.

From experience I think it depends a lot on the bulbs you use.
 
^^ Yes, symetrical. 1m2 is good, or just a bit further apart IMHO.

My bedroom is just over 5x3m and we have 6 LED Aurora downlights which are more than bright enough for the room. They're on a dimmer and we don't need them on full to make the room bright enough. They give our a lovely clean/natural light too!

We do also have two smaller down lights on another dimmer for a dresser so we can light that areas specifically. ie: The general lights (the 6 mentioned before) are not in the best positions for my other half to apply her war paint etc.
 
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Imy said:
I was going to do 12 downlights in my 12.4m2 bedroom. If it turns out to be overlit, I could set the max brightness level lower.

From experience I think it depends a lot on the bulbs you use.
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Totally correct.

Beam spread, & wattage,seldom do you have two same wattage lamps from different makers, producing the same light output.
 
Imy said:
Is yours like this then?

Code: 
      o          o          o


      o          o          o
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Yes... With the two other smaller spots I mentioned are in a corner about 1ft apart and 1ft from the corner of the room to light the dresser using a dimmer switch of their own. So...
Code: 
                            .
      o       o       o     .


      o       o       o

The main six ones all just face straight down, but I suspect you could get pivot fittings if you wanted to allow their directions to be changed - But these obviously don't look quite as tidy.

And then we just have regular bed side table lamps for reading in bed (which is right in the top middle of the room, head board against the wall). Our bedroom company suggest reading spots on another pair of switches over the bed, but I thought that was a bit too much. Regular bedside lamps work fine and obviously can be changed/adjusted.


What are the dimension of your room? If it's more square you might end up with a 3x3 pattern for example? If it's more oblong like mine (5 odd by 3 odd) then 6 sound about right surely? Any decent electrician would comment on it too!

Use a (LED) dimmer too if you can!


Note: Now bear in mind, we have fitted cupboards down the far left/right of our wall which in some regards make the room shorter. ie: Rather then 5 odd by 3 odd, it's 4 odd by 3 odd.

EDIT: Just checked, our room is 535x306cm. Then there's full height fitted cupboards at both ends which are probably 75cm or so deep? So the room is in effect about 385x306.
 
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Nightglow said:
I always prefer to use a grid layout, looks uniform & balanced, also prefer to use a even number of fittings.

But, there are occasions, when you can tweak the layout for one odd lamp, say when you have a alcove, or recess to light.

Black Dynamite: Take 1 downlight for every 1m2 is optimal, worked with a 50w halogen lamp, but it's gone out the window with the LED lamp in my opinion with the various wattage available now in led lamps.
Click to expand...

I knew i'd read it somewhere :) can understand why with LED lamps it isn't essential. I'm still using the 50w halogen bulbs and it lights my room fine, so with LED's the light would be perfect.

Imy said:
Is yours like this then?

Code: 
      o          o          o


      o          o          o
Click to expand...

Yes, the middle 2 are bang in the centre of the room (horizontally). Then the outside lights are the same distance from the middle light as they are from the walls either side.

It took a while planning what would look best and symmetrical but definitely worthwhile.

Just want to point out that this is the first set of downlights i've ever installed and one of the first bits of lighting work i've carried out so apart from the layout i'm pretty much useless :) Nightglow is the expert, his recommendations and advice really helped me before I started posting on this thread!
 
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Black Dynamite said:
I knew i'd read it somewhere :) can understand why with LED lamps it isn't essential. I'm still using the 50w halogen bulbs and it lights my room fine, so with LED's the light would be perfect.

Just want to point out that this is the first set of downlights i've ever installed and one of the first bits of lighting work i've carried out so apart from the layout i'm pretty much useless :) Nightglow is the expert, his recommendations and advice really helped me before I started posting on this thread!
Click to expand...

Change to LED lamps, expensive outlay, but cheaper running costs, & less heat from the lamp.


:o:o
 
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