Long time no see. Upgrade time.

Oklies, Sunday funday.Not.

I was so annoyed by how badly the RGB cables looked I took them out completely and then spent another two hours rebuilding them. This time evenly, and most importantly properly.

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This is not easy. At all. They are so tight you need to yank them with pliers, and honestly I would rather depin and braid cables than do this, that is how much it sucks. I also forgot I put them directly onto the cables that came with the PSU, which just made it even harder. Still, I am happy now.

Other things done. Removed a ton of wiring I no longer needed.

Moved the 8 pin PCIE power wire for the TEC unit. I remember I could not get it through the hole at the top first and foremostly, but also that it did not look long enough. It literally was, but by around 2mm. Stoked with how much cleaner that is.

Cleaned up and modified the pump adapter. IE the one I made for the AIO/TEC's pump which is not in the block on the CPU as that is where the TEC is. The pump was perma wired to 12v and by god it is so noisy that I could hear it with headphones on. So I made a 7v patch cable. Which was ketchup and mustard, and now isn't.

So yeah. A lot done really, even though it doesn't look like much. You will, however, note how much cleaner it all looks in there.

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I'm going with @TrojanWhore : over-engineered. Normal stop plugs would have been simpler, cheaper, more reliable and re-useable elsewhere.
If they had to be flush like that, a small shoulder at the bottom of the thread and a flat rubber washer like a shower fitting....which incidentally uses the same kind of thread, just a bit bigger G1/2 IIRC. The G1/4 thread we use is a legacy of the origin in pneumatic fittings. Garden hose (just for completeness) is G3/4 and the really small push-to-fit pneumatic connectors (as used in 3D printing) are G1/8. The reaction from a plumber when you produce a G1/2 die when he's come to cap off an old gas pipe and doesn't have the threading tools for steel pipe, is priceless! :D

Edit: reversed the auto-correction of "die" to "due". I mean, I'd have typed that if that's what I meant....:rolleyes:
 
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Problem is when you fit normal caps it makes it look like an old alarm clock with the two bells on lmao.

Off over to mum’s today. Let the design stage begin in earnest. She’s going to a Tina Turner thing in London on Thurs and will be gone til late night, so I shall spend the entire day making lots of racket :D

I’ve also come up with a great name for the build. More on that soon but it’s sure to make you laugh!
 
OK. So my work today has been hampered by the fact my Chord Mojo refused to stay powered on. I knew this day was coming, but I did not want it to be today. Bah. I had to take it apart, mod it, and wire in a 7.4v PSU. It now works again, but that is three hours I wanted to do PC stuff.

Any way, I figured out this hack with my scanner a while ago. What you do is set it to 300 DPI, throw whatever you want onto the bed, and then it will convert into a SVG file in the exact size. This is the PSU shroud end.

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The white Tshirt is to stop the light bleed. Looks terrible I know, but allows me to do this.

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Et voila. No peeing around with a ruler and angles and etc etc.

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I can now add my designs onto that and let the machine do the work.
 
Yup. I knew not to sell it. TBH even if I never used it again I would never sell it any way.

It’s only because AIO GPUs have been available at a good price that I’ve not water cooled my GPU for ages.

But that racket can FOAD tbh.

Ever since doing my first ever WC build on my Titan XP I will never go back to an air cooled GPU.
 
OK I messed up.... A bit. I did not realise it was one way in only, and my CNC stuff was on the wrong side. However, I do need to run a fan cable out of it so it all worked out in the end.

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OK so this will take a lot of work. I also can not commit to anything until the hex flow chambers are connected, as I don't know the exact locations in space. However, the hardest bit is now done.

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That is going to be one solid piece. Carved out of 5mm acrylic, and will include carved out circles for the RGB rings to sit in, connecting pieces making it look like an atomic structure, and cable carvings to allow me to run one RGB cable in, and then connect (solder) them up by going from one to the next. Again, I need the position of them and don't have them here yet.
 
Nothing done today. But.. The LEDs and 3mm A3 acrylic came in. So I am just about to finish the pump plates (one needs designing with holes in for the fittings) and then cut that tomorrow.

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That's that done then. Will set up the machine in the morning and leave it at it. I reckon about two hours.. Maybe less. I deliberately made the shapes the width of the bit so it does not have to spend ages taking out material, just literally going along lines. Either way I don't care.
 
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PSU looks good.
On the slotting op on that acrylic, you might be better to not do what you did...though I understand why you did it. It also may be that you'll get away with it just fine in acrylic. Technically what you want to do is slot it like you have - if necessary in multiple passes until depth. Then step over just a little and do a finish pass down each wall - at full depth if she'll take it. That will clean up the walls, bring it straight and to dimension. When you make the initial slot the load on the cutter is higher so you get deflection so the cut may not be straight, probably wobbly and the dimension could be wrong. Quite likely none of these matter....but on a theoretical note at least :D
 
Well it didn't fit. Gawd knows what went wrong there. Cutting round 2 is happening now. I think I tried to tolerance it too tightly, and I think it is extruded. Even though it said it wasn't it cuts rougher than the PSU shroud, and it stinks too.
 
Going back to the pump top cover. I am not going to try and polish it. I am 99% sure I got done and it is extruded. As such when you try and polish it it will micro fracture. It doesn't look bad from any sort of normal viewing distance tbh. Especially once it goes behind smoked glass.
 
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