Mayhems Pastel White Splitting

sepulchre said:
Yes all new blocks, I followed a video on youtube describing how to flush and rinse rads prior to use. Even though the PE rads said on the box that flushing wasn't required and there was very little that came out of them there were some particulates so it was worth doing. I read up on this for a long time while planning my build, it’s apparent that there are many opinions on what and what not to do, often contradictory which doesn’t help someone new to water cooling. To be fair this is only a minor problem that I can resolve, I’m still pretty chuffed to have successfully built my first water cooled pc with a disto block and acrylic tubing, which is running very cool and quiet, albeit not looking quite as white as I’d hoped.

Rinsed to hell and back, but there is clearly something driving a reaction here, I can only imagine its at homeopathy concentration levels :D But in all reality its likely to be the pH that's out of range.

I'm really annoyed by this to be honest given i followed all the directions, used Distilled not De-ionised water, flushed and rinsed everything according to directions and then rinsed some more, I'm a scientist by trade so picky about how such things are done
Click to expand...
Rinsing is all well and good, but experience has taught me that you also need a water pump to create turbulence within the radiator to force the debris out, otherwise some is bound to get trapped during a basic rinse. It needs to be a D5 pump or something of equivalent power at full blast, too, and you also want to use filters to catch the stuff going round the loop, or you'll be using a lot of distilled water.
 
hey all. i just stumbled upon this thread and tough i'd share my expierence too with mayhems pastel white or any pastels from mayhem. i have been running the white fluid for about a year. witout any serious build up or particles seperating out or whatever.
my guess would be that the major cause of this problem is the system not running for longer timeperiods (2-4 Days). I made sure that most of the time the system was running, or at least the fluid moving.
for example if i went on vaccation for two weeks, i would hook up a secondary PSU to keep the pump running and that worked out fine.
i found that the (nano?)particles start to seperate after about 1-2 days of the fluid not moving. probably not the answer you were looking for

but as it has been stated before, it could be caused by a chemical reaction idk.
and im using all EKWB parts too.

sorry if my english is weird but im not native soo yeah, i try my best ^^
 
Last edited:
If the particles start to separate because they've not been "mixed" through lack of use in the loop, why don't they separate in the bottle it comes in before it goes in the system?
 
WantoN said:
Looking forward to watching Mayhem's point the finger at OP for a while before shrugging their shoulders and quietly sending out some replacement fluid as a 'good will' gesture :D
Click to expand...

I am looking forward to the Blitz kit webpage being updated to add "Ideal for flushing remnants of manky Pastel"

OP, if you haven't already done this, I would suggest flushing the loop with mains tap water, but try flushing the loop forward and then backwards. By that I mean multiple flushes with the water going one one direct through the loop, then the other direction, just by swapping the port you choose to connect the hose to. Having the flow going the opposite way to normal would tend to disturb areas which may be dead spots in the normal direction, hence would help churn the gunk from those spots.
 
Bossman said:
If the particles start to separate because they've not been "mixed" through lack of use in the loop, why don't they separate in the bottle it comes in before it goes in the system?
Click to expand...

Heat cycling, interaction with metals and plastics, exposure to oxygen and light, etc etc. Just because it didn't seperate in the bottle doesn't mean it's user error or dodgy radiators.

Why sell make it at all if the very components it's designed to interact aren't suitable because of their manufacturing process?

To be honest I've never liked the whole coloured fluid movement, especially pastel / opaque colours, worse yet fluids for 'shows'. They stain, they gunk, they split and they offer no benefit aside from 'looking cool.'

I get the appeal, but watercooling for me has always been relatively low maintenance, I don't want to be scrubbing my blocks and staring at clouded plastics all the time.
 
I've had a hard time getting my tubing to look clear for any length of time. I've tried Primochill Advanced LRT and Mayhems Ultra Clear. I ran Part 2 + Ultra Pure H20 of the Mayhems Blitz Kit through Ultra Clear for ~20 hours and even in that relatively short amount of time it had clouded slightly. Of course my radiators which were in the loop had previously been cleaned with Part 1 on their own and rinsed, but still.
 
sepulchre said:
what water are you using? I’m beginning to wonder if distilled water with pastels is Maybe not a great idea given its pH will always be slightly acidic, down to around pH 6.

I used distilled water from amazon.
Click to expand...

I'm using mayhems own H2O product.

I PH tested it with their own kit and its coming out as 7.
 
d7UzcJi_d.webp


Planned my loop out today, for the second time, and typically I'm short a couple of 90° fittings.

Ignore the orange in the res, it needs stripping down and cleaning properly. The fans are temporary too as white ones are on their way.
 
The mayhems Facebook page from a poster.

"After using Mayhems Solutions Ltd products, and being a member in this group for two years, I can tell you: 99% of all problems you have are because 1) you didn't follow the directions and 2) You didn't prep your system properly with Blitz Parts 1 and 2!"

Not exactly helpful when you just want to get some assistance.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom