Mountain Biking

Draeger · 22 Apr 2015 at 20:42

jimferno said:
Not used Hayes brakes for over 10 years but looks like you need to remove that C-Clip, under the bolt(?), on the second picture perhaps?

An even better solution would be to use this as an excuse to upgrade to some Shimano brakes?

Yep, eventually worked it out and got the pivot pins out. Cleaned up, dab of grease and they are moving much better now. However I still can't for the life of me work out how the master cyl piston is supposed to come out far enough to let you grease the first seal. If you pull the brake lever then let go and watch it the piston only slowly returns to a certain position inside the cylinder but not all the way forward enough to return the brake lever back to where it should be when it acts upon the lever rod. Damn annoying, just can't work out what the score is. Think its time to just give up and chuck it into my LBS.

rhysduck · 22 Apr 2015 at 22:16

Was there an issue with them, hence all this?

Draeger · 22 Apr 2015 at 23:00

rhysduck said:
Was there an issue with them, hence all this?

Yeah, there was a reported issue with them, Hayes released a 'kit' to fix it which involved removing the push rod then pulling the brake to retract the piston in the m/c fully into the cylinder. Then it says 'apply grease' to the cylinder bore and the piston will then come out further which exposes the first rubber seal. It's this seal which is allegedly the one which causes the problem as it gets caked in crud. But for the life of me I have no idea how the piston is magically supposed to just come out of the piston to expose the seal itself. The directions make no sense whatsoever yet everywhere you see it reported that's the only info on it, fix wise. No one seems to elaborate on what's actually involved in getting a peek at this piston. I'd just remove the damn thing completely and clean it up but that would mean bleeding them and the last time I had an utter nightmare bleeding these things, they are famous for it!

Begbie · 23 Apr 2015 at 12:02

Finally manned up and ordered.

Excited to get it, build it up and then gooooooo pack it up and send it away

rhysduck · 23 Apr 2015 at 12:10

Draeger said:
Yeah, there was a reported issue with them, Hayes released a 'kit' to fix it which involved removing the push rod then pulling the brake to retract the piston in the m/c fully into the cylinder. Then it says 'apply grease' to the cylinder bore and the piston will then come out further which exposes the first rubber seal. It's this seal which is allegedly the one which causes the problem as it gets caked in crud. But for the life of me I have no idea how the piston is magically supposed to just come out of the piston to expose the seal itself. The directions make no sense whatsoever yet everywhere you see it reported that's the only info on it, fix wise. No one seems to elaborate on what's actually involved in getting a peek at this piston. I'd just remove the damn thing completely and clean it up but that would mean bleeding them and the last time I had an utter nightmare bleeding these things, they are famous for it!

Wow

Begbie said:
Finally manned up and ordered.

Excited to get it, build it up and then gooooooo pack it up and send it away

What colour you go for Beg?

Supercow · 23 Apr 2015 at 12:54

Begbie said:
Finally manned up and ordered.

Excited to get it, build it up and then gooooooo pack it up and send it away

SWEEET!

Colour?

Caseh · 23 Apr 2015 at 20:18

So I dug my bike out to get the new tyre on (got the Butcher and left the current back tyre) and my back brake is absolutely determined it's not budging, it's well and truly seized up. So.. Are the SLX brakes still OK for the money? I'm on a tight budget as I move house in a couple of weeks time.

steve45 · 23 Apr 2015 at 22:41

After a little advice.
Am i crazy for considering selling both the RZ120 and the Tues for something like a Specialized Enduro FSR Expert Evo 2015 650b, i'd be looking at putting a fox 36 up front and probably fitting a reverb dropper.

my current line of thinking is something that can take the DH days (anything from fort william to aston hill), play days (old freeride stuff ie big drops and jumps) and still keep up when it comes to to day long epics.
Now i love my downhill bike almost as much as i love my own mother, and the concept of me even considering getting rid of it scares me, but i'm just exploring options here.

should i entertain the idea or would it be too much a of a compromise? jack of all master of none?

The other option which at the moment is plan A, is to keep the DH and upgrade the RZ120 frame but on a rather limited budget to something more aggressive(used, ~150 travel, slacker, lower standover, 26"), and buy new 1x10 drivetrain with N/W and a reverb dropper.

Supercow · 23 Apr 2015 at 23:43

It's what I've done.
Run two wheelsets, one with DH tyres on, the other lighter trail tyres.

Yes, on super gnarls tracks, of course a full rig will be fastest, but at our joe blogs level, not much . These latest endurobro bikes really are so capable.

Take my Makulu I had as an example. My current enduro bike, is longer in wheelbase, same head angle, shorter chain stays, longer reach and lower bb even with my 650b wheels.

It weighs only 27.8lbs without sacrificing any strength and I've gone and made sure I had a chainguide too. In full DH guise, I can put a coil shock on , slap on my heavier wheels, and even jack my forks up to 180mm.

mattyy · 23 Apr 2015 at 23:54

New bars time.

Has anyone got any experience with 35mm?

Juggy1985 · 24 Apr 2015 at 04:43

Caseh said:
So I dug my bike out to get the new tyre on (got the Butcher and left the current back tyre) and my back brake is absolutely determined it's not budging, it's well and truly seized up. So.. Are the SLX brakes still OK for the money? I'm on a tight budget as I move house in a couple of weeks time.

Even the model doen deore brakes are good so slx will be fine.

Supercow · 24 Apr 2015 at 06:33

mattyy said:
New bars time.

Has anyone got any experience with 35mm?

Yeap. The raceface sixc 35mm rocks. The Easton I had turned out to be too stiff when I used them in France

gettothechopper · 24 Apr 2015 at 09:00

driving upto snowdonia today to ride antur uplift tomorrow

it gonna rain

panthro · 24 Apr 2015 at 09:42

Is anyone doing the Wiggle Ups and Downs sportive tomorrow? My friend cancelled last minute so I'm going alone

Begbie · 24 Apr 2015 at 11:34

Supercow said:
SWEEET!

Colour?

Went for the blue.

Caseh said:
So I dug my bike out to get the new tyre on (got the Butcher and left the current back tyre) and my back brake is absolutely determined it's not budging, it's well and truly seized up. So.. Are the SLX brakes still OK for the money? I'm on a tight budget as I move house in a couple of weeks time.

Juggy1985 said:
Even the model doen deore brakes are good so slx will be fine.

I had SLX brakes on my Pitch and they were great.

mattyy said:
New bars time.

Has anyone got any experience with 35mm?

Also use the sixc carbon bars, great.

Supercow · 24 Apr 2015 at 13:19

Ah, forgot to ask, which shock?

Begbie · 24 Apr 2015 at 13:22

Went with the CCDB, was more a bit of a gamble I suppose. But I'm sure it'll be great. I've read a few comments saying how dialed they've got the CCDB so it lured me in a bit.

Just considering buying some pikes now! I'm right in thinking there is no difference in RC + RCT Pikes, except the RCT has climb mode? Which I can't imagine missing too much anyway.

Supercow · 24 Apr 2015 at 13:27

Just get the most base model, SOLO AIR version you can. (i.e: whatever you you can get the cheapest)

The lockout, you'll never use.

Begbie · 24 Apr 2015 at 13:29

These are OEM, for £390 RC SOLO AIRS. So yeah, seems like they'll be fine. I never bothered with the climb thing when I demod bikes with them on and never felt like it could need it.

Supercow · 24 Apr 2015 at 13:31

Be sure to get the volume spacers too - drop 2 of those badboys in and you;re golden.