NEARLY 2 WEEKS WAITING: Nissan GT-R is finally mine!

Day2!

Start off with a quick hose down to remove any dust overnight, oh the joys of a water filter!

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Next, wheels, trying out the Autobrite "very cherry". Have always used bilt hamber auto wheel before, however its expensive (though effective) for what it is. Very cherry comes in at 1/4 of the cost so if it works im happy.

Diluted down 5 to 1 and put in the favorite wheel sprayer....

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A healthy spray given, and seems to be pulling it off ok...

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Spray down (not power washed) and some residue left

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A rub down of all 4 alloys, and it certainly seems to have shifted the worst of it!

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Nice and shiny :D

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Next up, clay mitt the entire car. Best. Thing. Ever.

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Noticed the front... thing.. was not quite lined up right. Grrr

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So.. fixed

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Even after a wash and claying, the GTR gets so sooted up in the arse it needs something more intensive... so out comes in intensive tar remover!


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Working it into the cracks

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Much better

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While the tar remover is out, a full go over and removing any tar and other stuff that the clay mitt didnt get.

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This is what came off the car using the tar remover... now remember this is after already being washed and clayed!

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Time to make sure the panels are completely clean and have no oils / residues / grease etc. 30% IPA to water solution. I know some people use it neat but from experience 30% is more than enough and doesnt run the risk of softening things you dont want softened...

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What came off after IPA'ing the car... yep... Foam, wash, clay, tar remover and still more is coming off...

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Unfortunately it was way too hot to do any scratch removal so took the time to touch in some of the larger stone chips.

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Ooops! Little too much there....

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Cant work any of the touch ins until tomorrow, likewise with the scratches.

Engine bay needs some work...

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This might take a while...

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Fortunately most of it is just dust rather than oil/grease, so it will brush off.

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And that covers day 2....


Tomorrow will finish off and dress the engine bay, and work on flatting some of the touch ins and scratches.
 
Hey all!

Change of plans today, for a while there has been a part on the front wing where the lacquer got damaged and flaked off.

This is unfortunately a 1 way ticket to a respray as you cant just apply new lacquer to cured paint and expect it to stick.

However, as I don't want to have to go through that yet (other plans in the works) needed to sort it to stop it getting worse.

So after an IPA, used a brush to build up a thick layer of touch in paint to raise the level above the lacquer.

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Then can apply the lacquer with some solvent in it to allow it to bond to the touch in paint.

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Next some 2000grit to flat it all off and get it smooth to the touch, and even out the edges, followed by some cutting compound to remove the grit scratches.

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Reducing the levels of cutting compound to a very mild with a good going over with the DA.

Finally use some autobrite brilliance glaze and some hellshine to seal it up as best possible.

It is still noticeable, but much less so, and hopefully this will stop it spreading any further before having it resprayed.

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Heck of a lot of cleaning going on, hoping to do something similar to mine soon.
How long do you think it'll last before you want/need to go through the same process again? The Foam, wash, clay, tar remover and IPA'ing part.
 
LEUVEN said:
Heck of a lot of cleaning going on, hoping to do something similar to mine soon.
How long do you think it'll last before you want/need to go through the same process again? The Foam, wash, clay, tar remover and IPA'ing part.
Click to expand...

Once its all done, at least a year. Will do a pre-winter prep but nothing on this scale.
 
You should be using the tar remover before the clay mitt. Otherwise you risk dragging around more tar spots than necessary over the paint with the mitt.
 
Amos91 said:
You should be using the tar remover before the clay mitt. Otherwise you risk dragging around more tar spots than necessary over the paint with the mitt.
Click to expand...

I removed all the ones I saw prior to claying, however the ones left were only really visible once you got down and close.
 
All this cleaning and waxing will make it more slippery, could be worth another tenth in quarter mile to bring you closer to that 10s car. :D
 
Gibbo said:
All this cleaning and waxing will make it more slippery, could be worth another tenth in quarter mile to bring you closer to that 10s car. :D
Click to expand...

:D

must have sucked about 10kg of dust out the engine bay and the undertrays!
 
Hi all! So day 4... nearly there and a perfect day for finishing off the major panels as it was overcast and warm, no wind to kick dust up and no rain to ruin the fun.

First up, engine bay dusted out as best possible. Needs a wet/steam clean to bring it up spotless, but as theres like 2 people in all the UK id trust to do that, it will stay as is until the engine gets dropped out for a forged build.

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Next up, major scratches reduced, minor scratches removed

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Now I have 2 new products to try, first up, Autobrite Brilliance. A filler heavy glaze.

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A small amount applied to a pad...

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Then worked into the paint until lightly hazing, and left to flash off for 10 minutes, before applying a second layer.

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Panel split into 4 and buffed off!

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Now for the top coat sealant. Autobrite have a new "hellshine" range. Decided to give "The abyss" a go. Feels like a very silicone heavy product and is one which absolutely means less is more. I used 4 sprays for the hood and it took me a good 30 minutes to wipe it all off after it had cured. Smells rank as well, but autobrite claim upto a years protection, given I will do another pre-winter clean and seal this will only get half its expected time, so hopefully will be a good alternative to SRP/EGP.

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And some shots of the now glazed and sealed panels:

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And finally, a quick walk around.



Tomorrow will do the boot, front and rear bumpers, all the black trim cleaned, the glass, black the tyres and start work on the interior.
 
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