Nvidia 30X0 series waterblocks
- Thread starter geekyEd
- Start date
I got 49C max after a DOOM eternal session at stock on the alphacool blockMy 3080fe block is being shipped again with dhl this time., it's supposed to be here tomorrow...
What temps are you guys getting with your EK FE block on 3080? Is it standard 48-50C? better /worse?
- lower than my EK blocked 1080! The massive die helps with heat transfer.
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- 5 Jan 2019
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You will probably be up and running before me I have more fittings to buy to get mine working
Im never quite sure how many fittings are actually needed
. Had to put in an order yesterday for more. Hopefully when I get my block for the 3090 I’ll be good to go.Im never quite sure how many fittings are actually needed
Generally at least 2 for each component in the loop (pump, block, radiator, etc). You'll also need some additional ones for a fill or drain port, and it's helpful to have at least one spare around to drain the loop, and you might need some extra (or at least say a male to male adapter) to use something like a t-splitter. So yeah, can't really have too many fittings.
My issue was I’m running a zmt line around the back of the O11d, but a single 90 interferes with my uni fans another 90 and 7mm extender should give enough clearance.
I have this to come, need to cut my ova teks bracket to fit with the radiator. The uni fan rgb cable kit needs to come also then tube bending and finally I’ll have a rig.
and sorry for not delivering photos, holidays a baby and a toddler means I get the odd 30 minutes to myself
I have this to come, need to cut my ova teks bracket to fit with the radiator. The uni fan rgb cable kit needs to come also then tube bending and finally I’ll have a rig.
and sorry for not delivering photos, holidays a baby and a toddler means I get the odd 30 minutes to myself
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I've just managed to get two RTX 3070's - one an FE (for my Son) and the other an MSI Suprim - non-OC model. I don't suppose there are any EK blocks out for these yet are they?
I have had to pull my 1080 Sea Hawk EK out of my rig and feel like I have a half baked system. Need my card underwater sooner rather than later.
I have had to pull my 1080 Sea Hawk EK out of my rig and feel like I have a half baked system
. Need my card underwater sooner rather than later.In the 3080 one no, it was not included, had to use the nvidia one. I guess is the same for the 3090
Dang, wait for EK one it is. Mental the date on the EK one being pushed out, expect it will be March before we have it in hand!
@haszek - Looks great in the close up photos. I also really love how this block encloses the whole card.
Have you disassembled your 3080FE yet? I am interested to know how easy it is the remove and fit in this block.
Have you disassembled your 3080FE yet? I am interested to know how easy it is the remove and fit in this block.
I have yes. Most of the time took me to figure out how to unplug this stupid led cable from 3080fe as the few videos available don't really show it. Other than this it was quick.
With block to be honest there are only few screws so it was very easy in terms of assembling. What was time consuming was cutting thermal pads into small pieces, for front and back of card. So in general not difficult but takes some time. Manual also doesn't say anything about unscrewing IO bracket from block, but you have to do it to put the card in.
I'll try to plug it in just with soft tubing today after work to see if it's all working, contact, temps etc.
Just installed the Corsair XG7 Water Block on my 3090FE along with an MP5Works backplate cooler, in my O11L XL (3x360 Rads and Corsair Pump).
The install went well, and like others have said, the most difficult part is disconnecting the RGB cable on the GPU.
I have mine mounted vertically, so my next steps are to look at a better way of mounting the MP5works block attached on the back more securely, in addition to using the supplied clips.
I have a temp sensor on the back of the water block, linked to the Commander Pro.
My main issue was getting the Corsair RGB to work - the pump, gpu, cpu are daisy chained but the cpu would only light up on "Instant" colours. I found that deleting the icue software profiles, and recreating them, resolved my issues.
Very pleased it's all working, and I made no mistakes given the cost of the kit!
The install went well, and like others have said, the most difficult part is disconnecting the RGB cable on the GPU.
I have mine mounted vertically, so my next steps are to look at a better way of mounting the MP5works block attached on the back more securely, in addition to using the supplied clips.
I have a temp sensor on the back of the water block, linked to the Commander Pro.
My main issue was getting the Corsair RGB to work - the pump, gpu, cpu are daisy chained but the cpu would only light up on "Instant" colours. I found that deleting the icue software profiles, and recreating them, resolved my issues.
Very pleased it's all working, and I made no mistakes given the cost of the kit!
oh my god this; it must have taken me 1.5 hours to fit the block. I’m also sure I put too much paste on this one, but didn’t have the heart to rip it off again after sticking the pads. Maybe I warm it up and go for it.
Mine took about the same time. Well 1 day and 1.5 hours as I didn't have the screwdriver for the Torx screws on the back.
That little led cable is the worst, in the GN teardown he didn't make it clear that you have to slide the metal plate back then lift the cable up.
I just watched him pull it out and noticed it slide back at the start then pull up. I bought the set from IFIXIIIIIIIIIIT so had no worries with having the right bits!
Connected mine with flex tubing just to quickly check and I get delta +13C(to water temp) when playing Cyberpunk (1000rpm fans). Average when playing and OC I get 2100mhz speed, max settings including RTX psycho and quality DLSS. So temps are good for me, had around 45C after 30min run. Stock cooling gave me 80C+ as standard.
At idle temp=water temp (25C currently for me).
Also interesting that (checking with IR gun), temp of the backplate was almost exactly like temp of the core (45C), so there is quite a lot of heat transfer to the back which is good. Rest of the block was around 10C lower. I guess there could be some temp reduction with decent airflow on it (don't know if it's standard for current blocks as for my previous card backplate was just for looks).
In Timespy I got around 200 points more with the same settings so not crazy amount ( but my best scores on stock cooler were obviously when it was cold , so not when card had 70C).
Full OC for me is +160, higher than this was crashing CP. On stock cooler I could run Timespy as well with this OC but no gaming as card would be boiling so can't say it was stable.
Something to note for those with custom power cables, I got mine from Moddiy, it needed a bit of rough paper and work on them to squeeze them in. Gap for plug is quite tight, there is no space for anything larger than plastic that holds pins.
My plug had some sort of melted, glued rubber around cables, not full plastic plug like on their photo. It needed cutting even to plug it into FE cooler as it was blocked on fins
At idle temp=water temp (25C currently for me).
Also interesting that (checking with IR gun), temp of the backplate was almost exactly like temp of the core (45C), so there is quite a lot of heat transfer to the back which is good. Rest of the block was around 10C lower. I guess there could be some temp reduction with decent airflow on it (don't know if it's standard for current blocks as for my previous card backplate was just for looks).
In Timespy I got around 200 points more with the same settings so not crazy amount ( but my best scores on stock cooler were obviously when it was cold , so not when card had 70C).
Full OC for me is +160, higher than this was crashing CP. On stock cooler I could run Timespy as well with this OC but no gaming as card would be boiling so can't say it was stable.
Something to note for those with custom power cables, I got mine from Moddiy, it needed a bit of rough paper and work on them to squeeze them in. Gap for plug is quite tight, there is no space for anything larger than plastic that holds pins.
My plug had some sort of melted, glued rubber around cables, not full plastic plug like on their photo. It needed cutting even to plug it into FE cooler as it was blocked on fins