***Official Electronics Thread of Officialness (it starts off with lots of Nixie Tube Clock goodness

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aod
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Soldering is very easy, just takes a bit of practise.

Make sure the tip is clean, tin the soldering iron a bit by putting a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron, touch the iron to the join and feed the solder in to it. Works every time.
 
Grab a piece of veroboard and a length of wire. Strip the wire and cut it into pieces.

Solder wire to veroboard.

Repeat.

Simple practise, you won't need to do much to get your skills up.

Dirt-cheap too if you get your stuff from the right places :)
 
That's true, I see what you mean, I just kinda like the glass look with them sitting on top, able to see the electronics through it.

I wonder if you could do these but take away the LEDs from the circuit and replace them or just simply bridge over the connection gap with a wire and by-pass having them at all.

If you don't want the LEDs, you can choose not to install them. Or there is an option in the clock's menu to disable them. :)
 
and what are the right places?

Initially, anywhere that isn't "That Cartographic sounding place"
eBay's a very good place to start.

RS and Farnell (can i say those Feek?) are okay, but only if you're close enough to buy in person so you don't have to pay the hideous delivery charges. they're also much cheaper in bulk.
 
Haha yeah, I had seen this. Quite... Industrial looking :)

I think they'd look good behind some of that circle hole mesh

stockphotobrushedmetalm.jpg


folded over them like a cage (might need bigger holes and smaller solid frame gaps) but with a rusted/red/yellow finish of aged weather beaten steel.
 
Yes, fine.

There's also Rapidonline who also have a trade counter if you're anywhere near Colchester.
Yay! no suspension for me :)

I think they'd look good behind some of that circle hole mesh

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/8050/stockphotobrushedmetalm.jpg

folded over them like a cage (might need bigger holes and smaller solid frame gaps) but with a rusted/red/yellow finish of aged weather beaten steel.
That's sort of my plan for the case for mine, i'm going to use hexagonal-holed aluminium-mesh as a case for the PCB, should look epic.
 
See im not a fan of those blue LED's and i think the cases all need to be weathered/aged steel! The rust orange just gives the clock a better look IMO!

Everytime i check the updates on this thread i find it harder and harder not to go buy the gear i need to solder, practice and get one of these kits!

Damn they look schweeeet!

By the time i get around to it GD population will own the last of the Nixie lamps!
 
See im not a fan of those blue LED's and i think the cases all need to be weathered/aged steel! The rust orange just gives the clock a better look IMO!

Everytime i check the updates on this thread i find it harder and harder not to go buy the gear i need to solder, practice and get one of these kits!

Damn they look schweeeet!

By the time i get around to it GD population will own the last of the Nixie lamps!

when you build the kit you can leave them out, and you can also turn them off in the clock-software. :)

I agree with you about the case :D
 
Hands up everyone who just knew I'd do more tonight ;)

I did a lot more...

board-20110914-222611.jpg


Infact there's a tube on that board...

underneath-and-tube-20110914-222714.jpg


Getting to the base of the tube to solder it was the only really tricky bit.

Here's the one tube with power applied.

five-20110914-222852.jpg


Very happy so far but I really don't have time to do any more tonight, the iron is off.

I've got a dedicated GPS on the way, no faffing with manual time settings for me :D
 
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