*** Phanteks EVOLV Owners Thread ***

Spot on mate, i'll be in touch with them when they open up after easter, i fancy having my top panel done in a similar fashion.
Considering having something similar done with the front panel also, but i really like the minimal style as it is, have spaced it out about 4/5mm from stock simply by adding washers and longer screws on to the mounting brackets, i think i'll wait and see how things go with the top panel opened up first.

Big changes coming for my system next week, going full WC again, just cant resist, its not like i'm getting bad temps with the AIO, i simply just have the urge.
  • XSPC raystorm CPU block (Old one from my last system, want to replace but unsure on what to replace with)
  • EKWB gtx1080 full cover with backplate
  • XSPC EX360 rad (From old system)
  • Koolance 280mm 30 fpi rad (Bought used from MM)
  • Alphacool D5 pump and block (from old system, 5+ years old so may require replacing sooner rather than later)
  • EKWB Res X3 250 (bought for short term setup, plan on replacing with a Watercool heatkiller D5 res/pump combo, couldnt find stock in UK to have it in time for the build on tuesday)
  • Mayhems Pastel Red coolant
  • Mayhems ultra clear flexy tubing (will eventually go hardline in the next month or two, however funds were a little tight this month and couldnt afford the fittings)
  • Reusing all the old fittings from my old setup
  • LCD Temp meter
Just waiting for the GPU block to arrive then its build day.
One thing i have to say is... HOW MUCH??? swear things wernt this expensive last time round, I tryed to do this on a budget reusing as many parts as i could but still spent over £200.

Still a little unsure on how i'm going to plumb it all up, I think i'd like the 360 up top and 280 in front, at the moment without actually sizing things up i'm thinking.
Res -> Pump -> GPU -> 360 Rad -> CPU -> 280 Rad -> Res.

When i get the blocks fitted and Res and pump in the location i want i'll start looking at hosing but in my head this seems like the best way, might look a little messy with the flexy hose, but i'm thinking further ahead, when i get round to the Hardline setup I think it will be the most efficient routing.
 
UTTER_FILTH said:
Sorry for the delay in replying everyone, didn't realise I had some questions to answer lol.

Not sure if I can post links, but I got the hole done by a Kustom Pc company up in Scotland. Cost £30 I think.
If you want the same done, email them and mention you want the same hole cut in the same case as Ricky James and he should remember doing it.

The mesh I bought from amaz** and cost £9. If you search using the description below you should find it.
Hexagonal - Mild Steel-Perforated Mesh Sheet-2mm Hole-2.5mm Pitch-1mm Thickness - A3 (300 x 420mm) Sheet

Bought the nuts and bolts off of fleabay for £1.50.

Hope that all helps.
Click to expand...

You star! Thanks.
 
Don't think I can say where this is from unless OCUK start reselling them but it looks like there may be a non-DIY option for top cover soon ..

image.jpg
 
Anyone know if its possible to replace the front panel I/O section of this case? The headphone socket has completely packed in on mine which is a real pain in the hoo-hoo.
 
Thanks for the suggestion benjo, I will defo look into that tonight. I didn't realise there was such differences in internals, but I should have specified its the TG mATX case. Looking at your pic (very nice btw!) I can't run my strip down the back of the case either as the 140mm exhaust fan does not leave enough room to run the strip. I looked last night and I think I can only really run it across the top and front sides of the case...
 
Ah right, didn't realise you had the mATX version! I've put most of the excess in the top, but there's barely any light coming through because of the fan mount system.

I wouldn't cut the strip, I think the wiring runs as a circuit so cutting it will probably kill the entire thing.
 
aye, guessed that would be my luck :) well thanks for the confirmation anyway, i'll see if I can spool the excess under psu cover and in the top section. Cheers benjo!
 
Not a great pic, but I've also had my top cut like UTTER_FILTH and quite pleased with the result. The mesh I sourced from eBay and with a bit of black spray paint is a match to the mesh used on other vented areas in the top panel.

cT4EAoZl.jpg
 
Scottland said:
Not a great pic, but I've also had my top cut like UTTER_FILTH and quite pleased with the result. The mesh I sourced from eBay and with a bit of black spray paint is a match to the mesh used on other vented areas in the top panel.
Click to expand...
Can I ask where you got this done? I have my lid not properly on at the moment due to the fact this thing cant vent properly on the top...such a design flaw
 
Indeed, I wasn't originally planning to do anything but the blocked roof meant I couldn't quite keep my temperatures/fan speeds where I wanted them. Removing the case top saw a huge drop in water temperature meaning fan speed could be where I wanted it.

With the case top back on with the hole cut, temperatures were roughly the same as without the top on at all - but with the mesh fitted the water temperatures increase 1-2°C. This is 1mm mesh, so if you went with a bigger hole size in the mesh you could improve it a little I think.

Also for reference, I sourced and fitted the mesh myself - its easy to find on eBay. It was glued on with Araldite epoxy
 
Hello all. I am looking at buying this OCUK Prebuilt PC:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ocuk...-pc-intel-core-i7-8700k-4.9ghz-fs-1bw-og.html

Originally I was leaning on the Pro M ATX Glass Case to save some money but the more I see the Evolv Glass I prefer it. OCUK spec it with an 8700K running at 4.9 accompanied by an Asetek 570LX AIO cooler with the radiator mounted at the front of the case which is fine. But reading all of these comments about heat issues due to poor ventilation, I am wondering if the Pro M might be better as has the big mesh grill on top. A review of the build at Bit-Tech http://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/pcs/overclockers-uk-gaming-germanium-review/6/ said:

“We found the Gaming Germanium to be thermally efficient in our stress tests. With an ambient temperature of 22°C, the CPU remained at just over 80°C under sustained Prime95 load (non-AVX), so that 1.35V setting doesn’t appear to be problematic. In fact, CPU-Z was reporting it as below 1.3V. The GPU, meanwhile, didn’t even reach 70°C, which is testament to the excellent Strix cooler. None of the system fans got that noisy either.”

They seem fine with that but sounds a little on the high side.

Thoughts?
 
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