Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jun 2014
- Posts
- 5,105
Okay, good to know. Thanks!
*** Phanteks EVOLV Owners Thread ***
- Thread starter colinmcr
- Start date
Okay, good to know. Thanks!
Could you use the sys/chassis fan header? I've got temp/speed control for CPU and SYS fan headers on my ASRock.
Your only other option is to use a fan controller I guess.
Associate
Decided the top of the case needed a bit more ventilation. Quite pleased with how it turned out.
Very nice jobDecided the top of the case needed a bit more ventilation. Quite pleased with how it turned out.
Soldato
That looks tidy and professionally done, almost like it came from the factory like that.
I've been toying with the idea of opening up the top compartment area like that but I just dont trust myself to do a job as clean as that, and i dont want to ruin an expensive case.
I've been toying with the idea of opening up the top compartment area like that but I just dont trust myself to do a job as clean as that, and i dont want to ruin an expensive case.
Associate
I didn't trust myself either Lol, I sent it away to have the holes routed / drilled. Might get the front panel done as well soon.
Soldato
Mind sharing who you sent it to and cost?
Associate
Decided the top of the case needed a bit more ventilation. Quite pleased with how it turned out.
I would also like to know where you got that done too! I have a mate who has this case and wants to do the exact same thing.
What filter mesh is that?
Associate
- Joined
- 9 Nov 2014
- Posts
- 769
One of my cats kept getting on top of my case and treading on the power button, turning the PC off mid Folding session. I decided to change the power button to the reset button and now I feel like a jet pilot firing a missile every time I flip that cover up to turn on my PC haha.
On a more serious note, do you guys run you top mounted rad as an exhaust or intake?
On a more serious note, do you guys run you top mounted rad as an exhaust or intake?
Exhaust in pull configuration. I haven't tried anything else though.
I run mine as a exhaust but I am going to be changing the 240 for a 360 soon as well, so ill be running 2 360's.
Associate
Been following this thread for a while and finally decided to sign up and post my experiences with the case. By now I've probably undone every single screw in the case. I bought my Enthoo Evolv ATX second-hand for approx. 80€ in Nov. 2016. It was quite a bargain considering it was only a couple of months old and had very few scratches.
In my first setup using the Enthoo Evolv ATX case, I used EK's XLC-Predator 280 AIO cooler for both my CPU and GPU (Predator Pre-Fill).
Already then, the top part of the case was hot to touch when playing games due to insufficient air flow - the little slits on the sides of the top panel don't really work at all.
Temperatures
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In January 2017, I delidded my CPU. Used Rockitcool's delid and relid kit. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut & Kryonaut applied.
In February 2017, I built my first custom loop with EKWB parts.
Being the first time building a custom loop, it was difficult to anticipate certain things in advance (angles, fittings, how big the rads actually are, and most importantly, although I had a drain port, I didn't put in a thermal sensor for measuring coolant temp).
Although having push/pull on both rads and having taped up all unnecessary gaps up top with black electrical tape, I wasn't pleased with the poor airflow from the front of the case and poor exhausting of hot air at the top. Even with this setup, the top cover was getting warm to touch. I became increasingly worried about the coolant temperature getting close to 50c. The motherboard VRM area was also heavily blocked from receiving air flow, and was getting warm under load.
Temperatures
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In March 2017, I decided to drain my system, add a thermal sensor for the coolant, change the position of the pump/reservoir combo and drain port, change the pump holder, switch the rads around and mod the case a tiny bit.
Front panel mod
Standard motherboard stand-offs fit perfectly.
Added some spare rubber stand-offs, for stability & to eliminate vibrations.
The sweet spot for clearance is somewhere between 6-8mm. Any more, and the front panel won't slot in to the default fittings of the case. Do the same mod for the other end of the front panel.
Fits in line with the case, but theres about 8-10mm more space on the sides for air-intake. Increased the amount of fresh air taken in and lowered temperatures for all components.
Top Cover Mod:
Tools used:
- metal saw
- pipe wrench/tongs for man-handling the lips of the Phanteks radiator tray
- black electrical tape
Using a cheap metal saw, I cut away the support beams. Due to lack of power tools, I ended up using pipe tongs to bend straight any lips. I used black electrical tape to smoothen the edges so I don't cut myself later on. Ideally, I would have used a Dremel to cut smoother lines - maybe I will do that sometime later.
Using pipe tongs again, I straightened the lips on the radiator tray. Not pictured here, but I used black electrical tape to soften these edges. If I had a Dremel, I would have cut the lips off.
Pull fans fitted above radiator tray. All other gaps have been masked with black electrical tape and simple Cereal box cardboard. Might not look good but cheap, effective and 100% out of sight when the top cover is on. If I decide on buying a Dremel, I could easily smoothen things out at a later date.
Final Pics
Temperatures
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
Future mods:
- Send top cover away for modding, fasten top radiator directly to it and forget the radiator tray. This way I could probably fit 2x360 rads in the case, even in push/pull.
- Add more alphacool LEDS (ordered).
- Maybe clean up previous mod work.
Specs
In my first setup using the Enthoo Evolv ATX case, I used EK's XLC-Predator 280 AIO cooler for both my CPU and GPU (Predator Pre-Fill).
Already then, the top part of the case was hot to touch when playing games due to insufficient air flow - the little slits on the sides of the top panel don't really work at all.
Temperatures
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
- i7-6700k @ stock (not delidded yet) 68-74c
- EVGA GTX 1080 FTW @ 1987 MHz 55-63c
- i7-6700k @ stock (not delidded yet) high-70s to mid-80s.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In January 2017, I delidded my CPU. Used Rockitcool's delid and relid kit. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut & Kryonaut applied.
In February 2017, I built my first custom loop with EKWB parts.
Being the first time building a custom loop, it was difficult to anticipate certain things in advance (angles, fittings, how big the rads actually are, and most importantly, although I had a drain port, I didn't put in a thermal sensor for measuring coolant temp).
Although having push/pull on both rads and having taped up all unnecessary gaps up top with black electrical tape, I wasn't pleased with the poor airflow from the front of the case and poor exhausting of hot air at the top. Even with this setup, the top cover was getting warm to touch. I became increasingly worried about the coolant temperature getting close to 50c. The motherboard VRM area was also heavily blocked from receiving air flow, and was getting warm under load.
Temperatures
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
- i7-6700k delidded @ 4.6 GHz max. 65c (vcore offset auto bounces around 1.456-1.506)
- EVGA GTX 1080 FTW @ 2000 MHz max. 58c
- i7-6700k delidded @ 4.6 GHz max. 68c (vcore offset auto bounces around 1.456-1.506)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In March 2017, I decided to drain my system, add a thermal sensor for the coolant, change the position of the pump/reservoir combo and drain port, change the pump holder, switch the rads around and mod the case a tiny bit.
Front panel mod
Standard motherboard stand-offs fit perfectly.
Added some spare rubber stand-offs, for stability & to eliminate vibrations.
The sweet spot for clearance is somewhere between 6-8mm. Any more, and the front panel won't slot in to the default fittings of the case. Do the same mod for the other end of the front panel.
Fits in line with the case, but theres about 8-10mm more space on the sides for air-intake. Increased the amount of fresh air taken in and lowered temperatures for all components.
Top Cover Mod:
Tools used:
- metal saw
- pipe wrench/tongs for man-handling the lips of the Phanteks radiator tray
- black electrical tape
Using a cheap metal saw, I cut away the support beams. Due to lack of power tools, I ended up using pipe tongs to bend straight any lips. I used black electrical tape to smoothen the edges so I don't cut myself later on. Ideally, I would have used a Dremel to cut smoother lines - maybe I will do that sometime later.
Using pipe tongs again, I straightened the lips on the radiator tray. Not pictured here, but I used black electrical tape to soften these edges. If I had a Dremel, I would have cut the lips off.
Pull fans fitted above radiator tray. All other gaps have been masked with black electrical tape and simple Cereal box cardboard. Might not look good but cheap, effective and 100% out of sight when the top cover is on. If I decide on buying a Dremel, I could easily smoothen things out at a later date.
Final Pics
BF1 1440p Ultra (after 3 maps of 64 player Conquest)
- i7-6700k delidded @ 4.6 GHz max. 54c (vcore offset auto bounces around 1.456-1.506)
- EVGA GTX 1080 FTW @ 2088 MHz max. 48c
- Coolant temperature: max. 36c
- i7-6700k delidded @ 4.6 GHz max. 61c (vcore offset auto bounces around 1.456-1.506)
- Coolant temperature max. 38c
Future mods:
- Send top cover away for modding, fasten top radiator directly to it and forget the radiator tray. This way I could probably fit 2x360 rads in the case, even in push/pull.
- Add more alphacool LEDS (ordered).
- Maybe clean up previous mod work.
Specs
Intel Core i7-6700k delidded (Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut & Kryonaut)
Asus Maximus VIII Hero
32GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2666MHz
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 Gaming
256GB Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Creative Sound Blaster Z
Corsair ax860i & Cable Mod Basic Cable Kit + SATA3 Cable
Silverstone Aero Slots (black) to replace stock white ones
Dell S2417DG 165Hz 2560x1440p G-Sync monitor
Zowie FK1
Corsair K70
Sennheiser G4ME ZERO headset
Watercooling loop materials (might have forgotten some):
EK Supremacy Evo Gold
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW Backplate Nickel
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
7x Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM
2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
1x Be Quiet Silent Wings 140mm exhaust fan
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN)
EK-AF Extender 6mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel
EK-AF Extender 20mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel
EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Nickel (QClass2)
EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Nickel
2x EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
2x EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Nickel
EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
EK-DuraClear 9,5/15,9mm 3M RETAIL
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coil 15,9 mm (5/8") - Clear (PCC-58)
EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)
EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L)
Alphacool Aurora LED -ring RGB 60mm for reservoir
Phobya G1/4 thermal sensor
Asus Maximus VIII Hero
32GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2666MHz
EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 Gaming
256GB Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Creative Sound Blaster Z
Corsair ax860i & Cable Mod Basic Cable Kit + SATA3 Cable
Silverstone Aero Slots (black) to replace stock white ones
Dell S2417DG 165Hz 2560x1440p G-Sync monitor
Zowie FK1
Corsair K70
Sennheiser G4ME ZERO headset
Watercooling loop materials (might have forgotten some):
EK Supremacy Evo Gold
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX FTW Backplate Nickel
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
7x Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM
2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
1x Be Quiet Silent Wings 140mm exhaust fan
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN)
EK-AF Extender 6mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel
EK-AF Extender 20mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel
EK-AF T-Splitter 3F G1/4 - Nickel (QClass2)
EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Nickel
2x EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 Nickel
2x EK-CSQ Plug G1/4 - Nickel
EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Nickel
EK-DuraClear 9,5/15,9mm 3M RETAIL
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coil 15,9 mm (5/8") - Clear (PCC-58)
EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)
EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L)
Alphacool Aurora LED -ring RGB 60mm for reservoir
Phobya G1/4 thermal sensor
Last edited:
Associate
- Joined
- 9 Nov 2014
- Posts
- 769
Decided the top of the case needed a bit more ventilation. Quite pleased with how it turned out.
This is brilliant and I'd love to know how much it cost!
Associate
- Joined
- 9 Nov 2014
- Posts
- 769
Got my GPU added to my loop now. Chuffed with the results but this case really struggles at the top to exhaust hot air! Defo gonna have to get it modded!
Associate
Sorry for the delay in replying everyone, didn't realise I had some questions to answer lol.
Not sure if I can post links, but I got the hole done by a Kustom Pc company up in Scotland. Cost £30 I think.
If you want the same done, email them and mention you want the same hole cut in the same case as Ricky James and he should remember doing it.
The mesh I bought from amaz** and cost £9. If you search using the description below you should find it.
Hexagonal - Mild Steel-Perforated Mesh Sheet-2mm Hole-2.5mm Pitch-1mm Thickness - A3 (300 x 420mm) Sheet
Bought the nuts and bolts off of fleabay for £1.50.
Hope that all helps.