I'd be surprised if it's ABS. Unfortunate too because ABS needs some extra work because it's very sensitive to ambient temperature, so you need an enclosure for the entire printer.
Assuming it's actually PLA for now, a good starting point for me was 200 nozzle, 60 bed just to test adhesion and correct tramming of the bed. From there you can experiment with bed temperature to eliminate "elephant foot" (where the bottom couple of layers squidge out in a little chamfer which affects total layer height and Z accuracy) and to fine-tune what your particular filament likes to cook at.
I'm using Creality brand PLA and I'm running 200 nozzle and 50 bed, and only need to use a brim support for thin and tall prints.
If it really is ABS though, you're looking at 220 nozzle, 65 bed and enclose the entire printer to keep the warmth in. ABS also stinks so you'll benefit from ventilation once you open up the enclosure. Enclosures can just be a big cardboard box than will sip over the entire unit, but with that you can't see what's going onalso the electronics shouldn't really be inside the enclosure, so if you do a lot of ABS it's always good to make up a proper enclosure with acrylic sheets (there's a ton of stuff using Ikea "Lack" tables and printed joints for the Ender 3 printer) and route the control boards outside.
Fingers-crossed this is just PLA though. Unless you buy a spool of it.
The video is a classic, I start off all smug and it goes downhill quickly it's all good fun though, I can take it off and give it another lick of paint at some point.Dimensionally it's looking grand, nice job. It's not the smoothest print so I think you might have some over-extrusion going on now, but you're not going to get completely seamless prints simply because you're squirting layers on top of each other. Of course, the finer the layer height, the less visible it'll be.
That's my test doggo after a few hours tuning up the printer last year. It's mental though with a 0.1mm layer height and about 40mm/s speed, took about 4 hours and it's only around 50mm tall. That's insane quality though, and for functional and structural stuff you don't need to be quite this refined.
Those LED holders I printed for Asteria II took 14 minutes for the pair. Only 6mm tall and about 12mm long, but again was 0.1mm layer height and a sedentary 20mm/s print speed because I needed the precision.
Also, you won't need the masking tape to print on once your temperatures are in check, although if you don't have a removable build plate it'll be a pain to remove well-adhered prints
Will spend more time tuning that bad boy! Left him printing over night. Think I was running just a bit too hot on the bed and not quite hot enough on the nozel. It's only all of the fluid. There are 2 more things I need prior to that anyway and neither are here.Benchy McBenchface! I've never actually printed a Benchy...the printer does need firing up again soon, so perhaps I shall this time.
I watched that Linus video and cringed when his perceptions were skewed because of that mental Ultimaker he has, and then laughed heartily when his Ultimaker comparisons were just ******* shocking
