Random 3D printing chatter

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 15:16

deuse said:
I have tried using visual studio today...not a chance
Why the hell did they make it harder?

I have got a new TFT70 coming today. Should I connect both cables?

If you have trouble - we could team up on teamviewer or something and I could help you write some firmware that actually works

deuse · 8 Feb 2021 at 15:28

Vince said:
If you have trouble - we could team up on teamviewer or something and I could help you write some firmware that actually works

That's kind of you.
What about if I gave you the links to the motherboard and TFT, would that do you?
I know the motherboard is ok.

Cenedd · 8 Feb 2021 at 15:49

So you guys would recommend a BTT board then?
Is there any particular disadvantage to the board with onboard 2209 drivers vs the similar board with drivers as add-ons? I'm mainly thinking the onboard is lower profile so would be easier to get in the existing case.

bulb66 · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:07

Cenedd said:
So you guys would recommend a BTT board then?
Is there any particular disadvantage to the board with onboard 2209 drivers vs the similar board with drivers as add-ons? I'm mainly thinking the onboard is lower profile so would be easier to get in the existing case.

Yeah I like the SKR boards i've got a few. I prefer the replaceable driver boards for a few reasons. 1) If a driver dies, you can replace it. On the built in board if it dies your done. 2) I can try different drivers I started with 2130's, then 2208's and now 2209's.

The onboard driver boards are the drop-in boards, they are made for Ender 3's, CR-6SE etc. The other SKR boards will require extra work to fit them to those printers as the USB and SD ports will not line up.

Cenedd · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:16

I've got an Ender 5 but my ports already don't line up - I shoehorned a Pi in there, an ethernet header, some buck convertors and a 92mm fan - for the peace and quiet

Any idea how tall a board is with a driver and heatsink mounted? Just wondering if it's a total no-go for the separate drivers....not sure I have the spare sanity to do a complete new enclosure!

bulb66 · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:22

Cenedd said:
I've got an Ender 5 but my ports already don't line up - I shoehorned a Pi in there, an ethernet header, some buck convertors and a 92mm fan - for the peace and quiet
Any idea how tall a board is with a driver and heatsink mounted? Just wondering if it's a total no-go for the separate drivers....not sure I have the spare sanity to do a complete new enclosure!

I'll go measure the SKR 1.3 with 2208's is.

OK it's around 27-28mm with the blue heatsinks.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:49

deuse said:
That's kind of you.
What about if I gave you the links to the motherboard and TFT, would that do you?
I know the motherboard is ok.

I know the board and TFT. I could make you the right firmware from the latest marlin. I think you will need visual studio code & platform.io to upload to the board though.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:51

Cenedd said:
So you guys would recommend a BTT board then?
Is there any particular disadvantage to the board with onboard 2209 drivers vs the similar board with drivers as add-ons? I'm mainly thinking the onboard is lower profile so would be easier to get in the existing case.

I have a couple and my skr 1.4 turbo has been a really good board. It has almost everything you could want from a 3d printer board. As above i would go with a straight 1.4 / 1.3 without integrated drivers. I'm currently running 2208 in UART mode.

I also really like the touch screen integration with other BTT gear. For example all the little extras you can buy like the dcdc board, etc.

bulb66 · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:57

Vince said:
I know the board and TFT. I could make you the right firmware from the latest marlin. I think you will need visual studio code & platform.io to upload to the board though.

The .bin file is created when you build the firmware. You could just send him that file. It's in the \.pio\build\* folder

* Microprocessor of the CR-6 board.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 16:58

bulb66 said:
The .bin file is created when you build the firmware. You could just send him that file. It's in the \.pio\build\* folder

* Microprocessor of the CR-6 board.

ahh cheers! Well this should be super easy then

I shall try get around to it later on tonight.

Cenedd · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:02

Thanks @bulb66 @Vince I've got a whole 32mm between the top of the standoffs and the top of the case so that ought to work. The generic board is acutally a better fit for the space too I think - longer but not as wide.

So would you recommend the 2209's for it? I can see the 2209's are a power upgrade over the 2208's but then there's the option of 2130, 2225, 2226, 5160 and I'm not really sure what the differences are. Probably over--thinking it and would be fine with the 2209's but just want to make sure I'm not getting the wrong thing.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:05

the difference between 2208 and 2209 is SPI mode I think. Both are silent drivers, you can control the 2208 via firmware in UART mode so set voltages etc. I am sure there are plenty of other advantages of the 2209 over the 2208 but for me the 2208 have been a good into into setting up UART etc.

I think the 2209 also support stallguard so you can use those for sensorless homing whereas the 2208 I dont think you can. I am sure @bulb66 will be much better versed than me in any further differences.

deuse · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:16

Vince said:
I know the board and TFT. I could make you the right firmware from the latest marlin. I think you will need visual studio code & platform.io to upload to the board though.

This is me :mad:

........................................................................this is Visual studio

deuse · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:17

Vince said:
ahh cheers! Well this should be super easy then I shall try get around to it later on tonight.

That would be a great help.

bulb66 said:
The .bin file is created when you build the firmware. You could just send him that file. It's in the \.pio\build\* folder

* Microprocessor of the CR-6 board.

Thanks for the help.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:19

deuse said:
That would be a great help.

Thanks for the help.

Whats the worse that can happen aye? Cant be any worse than where you are at right now! Plus because of that printer you gave me ive spent way too much time in marlin.

bulb66 · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:23

Cenedd said:
Thanks @bulb66 @Vince I've got a whole 32mm between the top of the standoffs and the top of the case so that ought to work. The generic board is acutally a better fit for the space too I think - longer but not as wide.

So would you recommend the 2209's for it? I can see the 2209's are a power upgrade over the 2208's but then there's the option of 2130, 2225, 2226, 5160 and I'm not really sure what the differences are. Probably over--thinking it and would be fine with the 2209's but just want to make sure I'm not getting the wrong thing.

Basically the 2225 and 2226 are repackaged 2208 and 2209's. The 2130's are older silent drivers which required external wire jumpers to enable "smart" features and the 5160 are high current drivers, the Duet3 has them and they are overkill for a 3D printer.

2209's are the one's to go for really and they run cooler than 2208's.

Cenedd · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:28

Excellent, thanks guys. I shall go see if the credit card can take the heat!

Wonder if they can deliver to the back door in a box marked "Nothing to see here wife!"

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:29

Cenedd said:
Excellent, thanks guys. I shall go see if the credit card can take the heat! Wonder if they can deliver to the back door in a box marked "Nothing to see here wife!"

haha the 2209's put some $$ on - I got the skr 1.4 turbo with the 2208's for a smidge over £30 whereas it was nearly £80 with the 2209's if I remember rightly.

Added the BTT35, DCDC board (still not here) and its a pretty sweet setup. Nice not having to play around with pots to set voltage. Want a bit more voltage you can send it m906 gcode with your settings and away you go.

Cenedd · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:35

I think they've gone up a bit since then - or at least via convenient shopping channels they have. Difference between 2208's and 2209's was a tenner - it's probably worth than for the lower temps

Will be nice to have better fan control (once I get as far as it all working!) and lose the tunes of the current "silent" drivers. I swear they didn't use to....but maybe I'm just driving them faster than before as I've tweaked Fusion's slicer settings closer (coincidentally) to what Cura suggests.

Vince · 8 Feb 2021 at 17:41

Cenedd said:
I think they've gone up a bit since then - or at least via convenient shopping channels they have. Difference between 2208's and 2209's was a tenner - it's probably worth than for the lower temps
Will be nice to have better fan control (once I get as far as it all working!) and lose the tunes of the current "silent" drivers. I swear they didn't use to....but maybe I'm just driving them faster than before as I've tweaked Fusion's slicer settings closer (coincidentally) to what Cura suggests.

If you think you will get better fan control then you may be disappointed. Standard layout on the 1.4 turbo is pwm fan for part cooling. All the rest are just always on fans. 3 in total. I have added a pwm controller board to control all fans!

I added one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-Digital-PWM-DC-Motor-CPU-Fan-Temperature-Control-Speed-Controller-4-Way/224100480309?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And changed all the fans for gelid silent 4 fans (half the price of the noctua and so far for me just as good). Makes a huge difference! With that board I just wired in electronics fans (I have 2 blowing onto the drivers in the case I designed) one always on on the hot end controled by the skr. Then part cooling also controlled by the skr. Next up is the PSU fan which im planning on printing a case to sort with a 120mm.