RC cars

Yrkoon · 7 Jul 2020 at 23:32

hyperseven said:
Nice, not a patch on my 7 though

Just bought a Savage XL myself, was a roller so slowly buying parts and building it up.

ohh cheeky boy

got a hyper 7 black and a ishima rave as well but they are nitro

you going leccy or nitro on the savvy? i love my dads savvy it was a 3.5 but he put in a 4.6 trophy engine, they trucks are near indestructable lol

hyperseven · 8 Jul 2020 at 00:09

Yrkoon said:
ohh cheeky boy

got a hyper 7 black and a ishima rave as well but they are nitro

you going leccy or nitro on the savvy? i love my dads savvy it was a 3.5 but he put in a 4.6 trophy engine, they trucks are near indestructable lol

Should have said, it's a Flux. Bought as a roller and came already hopped up with loads of upgrades.

Yrkoon · 8 Jul 2020 at 01:16

hyperseven said:
Should have said, it's a Flux. Bought as a roller and came already hopped up with loads of upgrades.

dang that sounds sweet, got any pics of it? dad gave me his savvy years ago but i could tell he was missing it so gave it back to him lol

now that i got a 8 scale leccy im really thinking of a mini revvo or something mini, got a maverick atom that has been stripped for years but in its prime it had a losi 6000kv system in it and a big 2s soft pack velcroed in with a savox metal geared servo, diff input gears said no, still got that motor and esc, need to find something that can use them

heck even a mini speed boat with a 18 scale 6000kv motor but not the esc as that aint water proof

hyperseven · 8 Jul 2020 at 02:43

Yrkoon said:
dang that sounds sweet, got any pics of it? dad gave me his savvy years ago but i could tell he was missing it so gave it back to him lol

now that i got a 8 scale leccy im really thinking of a mini revvo or something mini, got a maverick atom that has been stripped for years but in its prime it had a losi 6000kv system in it and a big 2s soft pack velcroed in with a savox metal geared servo, diff input gears said no, still got that motor and esc, need to find something that can use them

heck even a mini speed boat with a 18 scale 6000kv motor but not the esc as that aint water proof

It's pretty much in bits at the moment for a good clean. Once reassembled will upload pics, need to find a body shell as only got an old battered one off my lightning 2 which may suffice for the time being.

Yrkoon · 8 Jul 2020 at 03:01

hyperseven said:
It's pretty much in bits at the moment for a good clean. Once reassembled will upload pics, need to find a body shell as only got an old battered one off my lightning 2 which may suffice for the time being.

i wanna see the chassis in pieces and then see a pic of it put back together

before and after pics

if u have any old nitro fuel kicking about that is awesome for cleaning stuff if there is no ipa handy, used it on the hyper shocks that are on the back of my rustler

im a tad drunk lol

EviltheCat · 8 Jul 2020 at 11:30

Parts are arriving. The bearing chap was really helpful.

The motor in this was a '13 turn double' but looks like it needs a good clean up. Does anyone have any thoughts whether it might be salvageable and what might be needed to make it run again?

Thanks

Yrkoon · 8 Jul 2020 at 15:08

EviltheCat said:
Parts are arriving. The bearing chap was really helpful.

The motor in this was a '13 turn double' but looks like it needs a good clean up. Does anyone have any thoughts whether it might be salvageable and what might be needed to make it run again?

Thanks

you could try some new motor brushes they are only a few quid for a pair but brushed motors can be had pretty cheap for about a tenner

EviltheCat · 8 Jul 2020 at 19:01

Yrkoon said:
you could try some new motor brushes they are only a few quid for a pair but brushed motors can be had pretty cheap for about a tenner

I've ordered both options. It could get addictive this rc stuff... Went for a 15 turn single, I'm hoping this is similar to the old one it had in.

BongoHunter · 8 Jul 2020 at 21:25

@EviltheCat That motor probably just needs a skim on a com lathe. If you mark the timings on the case and then take the endbell off you can take a look at the commutator - if it's smooth and shiny then your good assuming you have brushes and springs on the endbell - if it's really dirty looking where the brushes make contact then it probably needs to see a lathe.

If the brushes are really worn and need replacing then worth doing the springs as well.

EviltheCat · 8 Jul 2020 at 23:22

@BongoHunter Thanks for the help. I've opened it up carefully and cleaned it out with WD40 (hopefully this is OK?) and cotton buds. There was plenty of grime. The commutator looks reasonable now but not new and shiny. I've put it back together for now and it feels smoother turning it by hand. I'll give it a go once I get the electronics setup. Hope it does work.

EviltheCat · 8 Jul 2020 at 23:31

Progress from tonight

I'll need to get some paint for the replica body shell.

BongoHunter · 9 Jul 2020 at 01:52

EviltheCat said:
@BongoHunter Thanks for the help. I've opened it up carefully and cleaned it out with WD40 (hopefully this is OK?) and cotton buds. There was plenty of grime. The commutator looks reasonable now but not new and shiny. I've put it back together for now and it feels smoother turning it by hand. I'll give it a go once I get the electronics setup. Hope it does work.

As long as the endbell has gone back on to the same position on the can then what you've done should help.

Good job on the rebuild - nice to see the cars from my time racing getting some love.

I've got a couple of these in my shed I need to give some love to (amongst loads of others): http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewx10/index.html - hopefully I can start soon and get some pics in this thread

EviltheCat · 9 Jul 2020 at 06:35

@BongoHunter Thanks for the link, that's impressive and on a different level!

EviltheCat · 9 Jul 2020 at 22:21

Getting closer. Seems mostly OK so far, a few little niggles but not too bad given the date on the manual is March 1993 and it looks to have been well used.

Couldn't get any 'vintage' decals so at least got some Schumacher ones.

BongoHunter · 10 Jul 2020 at 00:41

@EviltheCat Just make sure you used the right type of grease in the right places in the gearbox - especially inside the diff.

I'm guessing its a ball diff in that car - as RC ball diffs were first developed by the bloke who setup Schumacher. You would normally would expect to put silicone based stuff on the main balls and rings and black grease on the thrustrace - if the rings have a big groove worn into them then you can usually flip them over (diff will feel smoother and cheaper than new rings) - you can do the same with the washers on the thrustrace to depending on type. If you did rebuild diff and it was ball type expect it to slacken off quite quickly on the first run, so take the right tools to tighten it with you when you test it (and don't over tighten it!) - you can get a feel for how tight or loose it is by picking up the buggy and turning one of the wheels by hand (you get a feel for it surprisingly quickly).

Obviously if this all means nothing to you and it was a bevel gear diff - ignore me! Edit: if the manual says different and you follewed it also ignore me - not all diffs are the same depending on materials!

P.S If you've not got them already - curved lexan scissors are cheap and awesome for getting bodyshells neat.

BongoHunter · 10 Jul 2020 at 00:45

Also - that looks like a tamiya style battery connector - if you get a powerful ESC expect it to melt quite quickly (unless things have changed in last 10 years.)

I would use a deans connector for a pack like that.

EviltheCat · 10 Jul 2020 at 06:40

@BongoHunter Yes it is a ball differential and I've tried to rebuild it completely by following the manual. Without the instructions this would be well beyond me and would remain a pile of pieces. The manual specifies different greases as you describe so hopefully this side of it is OK.

For the connectors I just went with what I've used in the past. I hope it will be ok, the ESC I went for came with the same connector and the spec says it should handle the motor and battery I have.

Would it be worthwhile changing the connectors later, I'm not familiar with the differences.

I am going to fit the esc and see if that old motor works tonight.

I actually cut most of the undertray and body with a scalpel and snap cutting at the score line after watching YouTube videos. It seemed quite a good method.

BongoHunter · 10 Jul 2020 at 09:56

@EviltheCat it will definitely work with that connector - so worth trying as will be fine unless it gets absolutely roasting, as you say that could always be changed later

Yrkoon · 10 Jul 2020 at 21:59

EviltheCat said:
Getting closer. Seems mostly OK so far, a few little niggles but not too bad given the date on the manual is March 1993 and it looks to have been well used.

Couldn't get any 'vintage' decals so at least got some Schumacher ones.

looking awesome and glad to see a older model get some proper love

they tamiya connectors are prone to over heating, i used to melt some on my older models like a gold tub rc 10 and a kyosho tracker, the deans (t-plug connectors) have less resistance and are designed for higher loads, wouldn't worry about it untill you can see how hot they get, my drifter has a tamiya connector and almost melted one

EviltheCat · 10 Jul 2020 at 23:07

Thanks very much, I've enjoyed it so far. The electronics are now in and that old motor works but only intermittently for some reason. I will have to have another look at it so will stick the cheap modern one in for now.

In the meantime I've started painting. I'm not very creative so am copying some designs I've seen online for similar cars.

I think my home made window masks might have allowed a bit of paint to bleed in behind them. I'll see how it looks tomorrow. Hopefully give it a run round the garden tomorrow.