RC Planes
- Thread starter alexthecheese
- Start date
Few updates, still working hard
Only a few pics though
-Centred all the servos
-Tore out faulty aileron servo and replaced with a replacement from hobbyking
- Strenghened the stock wing spa, purchased a 3mm carbon tube, and gorilla glued that inside the stock carbon tube.
- Adjusted the position on the servo arm and control horns.
- Fitted cut up nitro fuel tube over the plastic clevis's on the servos to give extra security
- Drilled a small 5mm hole on the underbelly of the fuselage going diagnally up to just infront of the ESC. In the hope that with the nose air in take, and also this small air intake it will keep the air flowing through the fuselage, and also the air intake directly under the esc will hit the esc and keep it even cooler.
- Tidied up a bit of wiring, stuck the ESC on with sticky velcro, also found good mounting position for the RX, stuck that down with sticky velcro which will be easily accessable, I will feed the antennas through a small straw vertically out the top of fuselage near the front.
Still more work going on today
Need to do some more with the wings, ensuring the wires are secured, look at putting the wing panel wire feed strips back on with glue and crossweave tape. Put crossweave tape over the wing aileron and flap servos.
Cut out skid pads, try and look at getting the fuselage glued up
Only a few pics though
-Centred all the servos
-Tore out faulty aileron servo and replaced with a replacement from hobbyking
- Strenghened the stock wing spa, purchased a 3mm carbon tube, and gorilla glued that inside the stock carbon tube.
- Adjusted the position on the servo arm and control horns.
- Fitted cut up nitro fuel tube over the plastic clevis's on the servos to give extra security
- Drilled a small 5mm hole on the underbelly of the fuselage going diagnally up to just infront of the ESC. In the hope that with the nose air in take, and also this small air intake it will keep the air flowing through the fuselage, and also the air intake directly under the esc will hit the esc and keep it even cooler.
- Tidied up a bit of wiring, stuck the ESC on with sticky velcro, also found good mounting position for the RX, stuck that down with sticky velcro which will be easily accessable, I will feed the antennas through a small straw vertically out the top of fuselage near the front.
Still more work going on today
Need to do some more with the wings, ensuring the wires are secured, look at putting the wing panel wire feed strips back on with glue and crossweave tape. Put crossweave tape over the wing aileron and flap servos.
Cut out skid pads, try and look at getting the fuselage glued up
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Found my new strobe nav lights
Going order one red, one green, one white
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pubrVjc0Tc
Will probably come a bit later on in the project though
Going order one red, one green, one white
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pubrVjc0Tc
Will probably come a bit later on in the project though
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Argh, just had another servo go on me, whilst measuring the aileron throws. I had one side which I was getting around 3/4 of an inch either way, but when returning, it would not return back to its original position most of the time.
The other aieron, the servo its like its internal gears just malfunctioned, as it was not turning the servo even with no arms and internal cogs were slipping, it has not been handled or used incorrectly.
Thats the 2nd of these servos that has malfunctioned on me
I think I am going to go for the turnigy MG90s metal gear servos, I will replace the ailerons first, flaps later down the line, as the flaps wont be used as much
Do the 3/4 inch throws look ok? I was going to set-up dual rates on my tx but not sure how much throw I should have with no dual rates set yet by just doing it stock and looking at the ailerons? does anyone know what could be causing it not to return to default position? is this a servo issue?
The other aieron, the servo its like its internal gears just malfunctioned, as it was not turning the servo even with no arms and internal cogs were slipping, it has not been handled or used incorrectly.
Thats the 2nd of these servos that has malfunctioned on me
I think I am going to go for the turnigy MG90s metal gear servos, I will replace the ailerons first, flaps later down the line, as the flaps wont be used as much
Do the 3/4 inch throws look ok? I was going to set-up dual rates on my tx but not sure how much throw I should have with no dual rates set yet by just doing it stock and looking at the ailerons? does anyone know what could be causing it not to return to default position? is this a servo issue?
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Re: Nav Lights
Are they easy to fit after the model is built? If not, think about encorporating them into the build at this stage.
Is the aileron uniformly shaped? It's not bent by the look of it. Must be a servo issue.
What servos are they?
Check that the reciever is not in Digital mode (if possible) as they are analog servos.
Dusted off my Tx tonight to put some time in on Phoenix
Edit: Dual Rates.. I'd set them with no DR as full throw and then when DR is on (if only using one position) 75% of full throw with no DR.
You can also use some Expo.
Edit: Picture time!
Baby Flanker:
F-14 with folding wings:
Are they easy to fit after the model is built? If not, think about encorporating them into the build at this stage.
Is the aileron uniformly shaped? It's not bent by the look of it. Must be a servo issue.
What servos are they?
Check that the reciever is not in Digital mode (if possible) as they are analog servos.
Dusted off my Tx tonight to put some time in on Phoenix
Edit: Dual Rates.. I'd set them with no DR as full throw and then when DR is on (if only using one position) 75% of full throw with no DR.
You can also use some Expo.
Edit: Picture time!
Baby Flanker:
F-14 with folding wings:
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I hope so Im trying to get a replacement of the TG9e sevo, but at the same time ordering 2 x metal gear servos
Not quite sure what you mean about setting analogue/digital in the tx? didnt know you had to do this, I know some servos and analogue, some digital, the 2 megal gear ones im ordering now are digital.
My wings will be removable, so can still feed wiring in to the model, im not gluing the wings on, and will still have some access for wiring. The wing strips are removable, and I will be creating a channel for the nav led wiring.
RE the throws then, so basically is it safe to say set-up the full throws (say for the ailerons, 3/4 to an inch in either direction, then set-up the dual rate for 75% of that?)
Not quite sure what you mean about setting analogue/digital in the tx? didnt know you had to do this, I know some servos and analogue, some digital, the 2 megal gear ones im ordering now are digital.
My wings will be removable, so can still feed wiring in to the model, im not gluing the wings on, and will still have some access for wiring. The wing strips are removable, and I will be creating a channel for the nav led wiring.
RE the throws then, so basically is it safe to say set-up the full throws (say for the ailerons, 3/4 to an inch in either direction, then set-up the dual rate for 75% of that?)
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Reciever sorry not transmitter. Edit: I said reciever. I thought I had. You misread
Yes in answer to your last question. You could have a 2 position DR (3 including no DR) setup.
100% of throw - No DR
80% -DR pos 1
60% - DR pos 2
Yes in answer to your last question. You could have a 2 position DR (3 including no DR) setup.
100% of throw - No DR
80% -DR pos 1
60% - DR pos 2
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Reciever sorry not transmitter. Edit: I said reciever. I thought I had. You misread
Yes in answer to your last question. You could have a 2 position DR (3 including no DR) setup.
100% of throw - No DR
80% -DR pos 1
60% - DR pos 2
Sounds good, but am I aiming for 3/4 or 1 inch either way at full throw with no Dr turned on? Was hoping to get the fuselage glued but all this crap has happened now. Will have to wait for my sevos
Yes 
So you've got HIGH rates and LOW rates (hence DUAL rates)
High rates would be Rates OFF
Low rates would be Rates ON (however many positions you like and what your Transmitter allow)
OFF - 100% (Full) Travel (0.75 -> 1")
ON - 80% (Position 1)
ON - 60% (Position 2)
Put that onto a 3 way switch and you're laughing. Play with the % figures and see how it alters the aileron/elevator position on the bench before flying.
Of course if it's quite a docile model even with an inch either way of neutral for the aileron/elevator throws you may not need DR's
So you've got HIGH rates and LOW rates (hence DUAL rates)
High rates would be Rates OFF
Low rates would be Rates ON (however many positions you like and what your Transmitter allow)
OFF - 100% (Full) Travel (0.75 -> 1")
ON - 80% (Position 1)
ON - 60% (Position 2)
Put that onto a 3 way switch and you're laughing. Play with the % figures and see how it alters the aileron/elevator position on the bench before flying.
Of course if it's quite a docile model even with an inch either way of neutral for the aileron/elevator throws you may not need DR's
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Oct 2005
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- 5,710
- Location
- Derbyshire
get some hi tec / futaba etc servos, ones we use in heli's and large rc planes. these turnigy ones dont seem worth it with the problems you are getting.
perhaps worth cutting your losses and getting some other ones. look on robotbirds or brchobbies etc. or servoshop.
perhaps worth cutting your losses and getting some other ones. look on robotbirds or brchobbies etc. or servoshop.
The Turnigy platic bearing servo's are utter crap imo. I've had more bad ones than good ones.
The HXT900's have been great for me for my foamie models. Just buy a shed load of them.
Or go metal gear on the turnigy's. Personally anything that uses or needs the torque of a metal gear servo (like the swing wing mechanism on the f14 above) I tend to use Hitec.
The HXT900's have been great for me for my foamie models. Just buy a shed load of them.
Or go metal gear on the turnigy's. Personally anything that uses or needs the torque of a metal gear servo (like the swing wing mechanism on the f14 above) I tend to use Hitec.
Don
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2002
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- 17,044
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- In a house
Its a basic foamy, it will get bashed about. It will still fly well
Its a basic foamy, it will get bashed about. It will still fly well
I know but its just annoying
Another 2 metal gear servos should be arriving tomorrow for the elevator and rudder. Flaps are still using plastics
New metal gear servos installed in the aileron mounts, rudder and elevator mounts, red, green, white strobe LED's soldered wires on, the white one has been wired through the bottom of the fuselage, the red and green ones will be used on the wing tips, destickered the fuselage body.
Fuselage stuck together with gorilla glue, although I realised I didnt cut out a gluable access hole by the motor, my ESC is in the upfront compartment, but what if I need to replace the motor, im going to need to get to that compartment, is it too late now that I have glued it to make an access compartment with say a stanley blade? then glue it back on with erm, some sort of softer glue, what would you reccomend anything off the shelf? gorilla glue seems a bit OTT if you need to be able to get it off again
I doubt im going to be able to an access hole cut by the motor now anyway deed is done :/
Fuselage stuck together with gorilla glue, although I realised I didnt cut out a gluable access hole by the motor, my ESC is in the upfront compartment, but what if I need to replace the motor, im going to need to get to that compartment, is it too late now that I have glued it to make an access compartment with say a stanley blade? then glue it back on with erm, some sort of softer glue, what would you reccomend anything off the shelf? gorilla glue seems a bit OTT if you need to be able to get it off again
I doubt im going to be able to an access hole cut by the motor now anyway deed is done :/
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Don
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 17,044
- Location
- In a house
Cut out a foam section and use some small magnets to make it snap back into place.
Although I have never had to access the motor section since I had mine over the last few years.
Also, you seem to have inverse dihedral on your wings? Are you planning on flying inverted a lot?!
Although I have never had to access the motor section since I had mine over the last few years.
Also, you seem to have inverse dihedral on your wings? Are you planning on flying inverted a lot?!
Yeh thats what I was thinking, something like that. Although to be honest, I am going to hold out on that for now. If for any reason I need to change the motor (unlikely at this stage) I will do the motor swap and motor compartment cutout there and then, no point in doing it now
Its coming along, although the wiring is a little messy inside but not going to be able to resolve that, its the best its going to get. I still have plenty of room in the forward compartment.
Do I need to balance this thing before I glue the rear of the bird? its not all in yet, but I need to glue the rear, which will become an issue if I need to add weight to the rear to balance it, I wont have access to the inside.
There is still a bit I need to do
- Feed the wires in to the wing wire slits, put foam strip back in and tape with crossweave tape
- crossweave tape from 3/4's of the way down the wing to the wing tips, to hide some of the LED wire and also strengthen the wing a little
- Glue the rear of the fuselage
- Fit the carbon rod down the bottom of the model in the groove
- Tape down all LED strobe PCB's in to position (Red left wing, green right wing, white on the underside
- Fit Elevator and Rudder
- Fit the clear plastic skid plates
- Test out fitting the wing carbon rod, although this will not be glued, so I am going to use a method of securing the wings, which will consist of magnets which I found as an example someone was using, combined with velcro This is so I will be able to remove/re-fit the wings for storage and transport
Then on to the radio tuning.
There is more but I cant think at the moment
Its coming along, although the wiring is a little messy inside but not going to be able to resolve that, its the best its going to get. I still have plenty of room in the forward compartment.
Do I need to balance this thing before I glue the rear of the bird? its not all in yet, but I need to glue the rear, which will become an issue if I need to add weight to the rear to balance it, I wont have access to the inside.
There is still a bit I need to do
- Feed the wires in to the wing wire slits, put foam strip back in and tape with crossweave tape
- crossweave tape from 3/4's of the way down the wing to the wing tips, to hide some of the LED wire and also strengthen the wing a little
- Glue the rear of the fuselage
- Fit the carbon rod down the bottom of the model in the groove
- Tape down all LED strobe PCB's in to position (Red left wing, green right wing, white on the underside
- Fit Elevator and Rudder
- Fit the clear plastic skid plates
- Test out fitting the wing carbon rod, although this will not be glued, so I am going to use a method of securing the wings, which will consist of magnets which I found as an example someone was using, combined with velcro This is so I will be able to remove/re-fit the wings for storage and transport
Then on to the radio tuning.
There is more but I cant think at the moment
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