Road Cycling

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It's 5 years old. It was never a high quality component but I wouldn't have expected it to let go.

Chrome plated though, which has a habit of making steel quite brittle.

Good excuse to buy Ti ones ;)

I seem to ride a cadence of mid 80s when training and climbing, and higher, low to mid 90s when racing.
 
Roady - I'd probably be tempted to look at chromoplastic or bluemels but be prepared to mod them. I think you're always going to have to go the slightly modded route if you have really tight clearance.

Thanks for that mate, to be honest I'm happy to mod them - I have done with my RB's to try and stop some tyre rub on the rubbery 'ends'.

@Roady re mudguards... SKS Chromoplastics are great, but a bit of a pig to fit. Bontrager do some similar ones with a built in mechanism for adjusting the length of the stays which looks very practical if not quite as aesthetically pleasing as well set up Chromoplastics.

Thanks Pete, what kind of 'pig' did you have with yours? I would probably go for the Chromo's although the Bontragers sound interesting, I'll hunt some info down.

oh no, not those mudguards !
have you ever been behind a guy with them on ? I get covered in crap!
they are good for your own self, but not people behind you :p

Which?! Majority of the time I'm riding with guys without guards and normally at the back so they're mostly for myself when commuting! ;)

**** me, I think I got lucky this evening. Swapped the disc wheel off and when I went to undo the skewer I literally touched the Allen key in the fitting and BLAM it sheared and flew to bits!

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Might have been minutes away from that thing letting go on me while riding :eek: :eek: :eek:

Very lucky! I blame the disc rumble noises ;)

How would you guys feel about wireless electronic group sets? Aesthetically, I can see the appeal. From a mischief perspective it could be funny if you could hack a friend's GS on a climb :)

I ask only because SRAM have been testing such a system recently: http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/sram-wireless-what-to-expect-167975

Conveniently, the system will use CR2032 coin-style batteries, the sort you can pick up relatively cheaply on the high street. However, you shouldn’t find yourself searching out the nearest Tesco having run out of juice mid-ride, as battery life is expected to be anything up to a year.

The impressive battery life is down to the fact that the automatic mode for the shifters and derailleurs is “sleep”, with them only waking up once you press the shifting lever. This is a welcome difference from Campagnolo EPS, which has to be turned on and off manually.

Very impressive, although I imagine the type of riding done would really determine the battery drain!?

A typical CR2032 is 3V with 225-250 mAh I very much doubt would last a year for someone riding several hours most days. I could be wrong! :)

Nothing to report on commute this morning except didn't wear leg warmers (one of the few times this year) or arm warmers (not worn them more than a couple of times since start of June). Winds were calm (5-8kph), anything more I'd have needed leg warmers. Felt around 10-11 degrees.

First outing for my new pair of Northwave Logo bibs (XL rather than my usual XXL). They'll be too tight over leg warmers but without they're fine. The main body of the shorts is quite strong and feels sturdier/thicker than the lycra on the 2014 version I'd been wearing up until now. Real test for them later (hope my replacement matching jersey turns up!) as heading out with a friend! :)
 
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I do a bit of cadence work now and again but it's something I really should do more of. My road riding tends to stick pretty closely to 90 so it's not really that it would be more "realistic" for me - it's more that I have kind of lost the ability to peddle well at low cadences :p

Training volume is a massive pain the arse I find. I recover fairly well from cycling given all the training I've done but I do wish my legs would recover faster. I need some kind of topical steroid that I can just rub into them after ride or something :p

I can quite comfortably 'mash' in a low gear at around 75/80rpm equally I can spin comfortably at 95rpm but the latter is more aerobically taxing and I'm just a bit lazy :p That said I find sustaining higher power output over a long period 8-10 mins more comfortable with a high cadence than I do a low one.

Depending on your zinc/magnesium levels you might find TDT spray could help. Nothing androgenic/anabolic about it (unfortunately ;)) but it's been well received. That or just supplement with ZMA.

http://transdermaltechnology.co.uk/products

(Ben Coomber's brianchild)
 
Just as a heads up, Planet X reckon 10 months/2000 miles is an acceptable lifespan for a freehub. I declined their polite offer to buy a new one! I'm pretty set now on rebuilding the rim on to a Dura Ace hub. I've wanted to build a wheel for ages so this seems like a good opportunity.

Good excuse to buy Ti ones ;)

I seem to ride a cadence of mid 80s when training and climbing, and higher, low to mid 90s when racing.

I need to work on this, lacking the strength at the moment to push bigger gears when needed and I keep resorting to spinning light gears at ridiculous cadences for the same speed which I know is not efficient.

I'm going to incorporate some torque training over winter this year and see if it helps.
 
Just as a heads up, Planet X reckon 10 months/2000 miles is an acceptable lifespan for a freehub. I declined their polite offer to buy a new one! I'm pretty set now on rebuilding the rim on to a Dura Ace hub. I've wanted to build a wheel for ages so this seems like a good opportunity.

I did a couple of rebuilds of my Giant P-R2's, it's quite interesting and you get a good feeling of accomplishment when done. Certainly a skill you learn, although there is quite a knack to getting spokes to the right tension (without buying an expensive tension measuring tool). After the couple I've done the lacing is the hardest part (to me) to get right, having a lacing pattern/numbered & coloured guide will make a huge difference.

And less than a year/<2000 miles sounds low, sounds more like a rubbish excuse for a cheap component! :(

I need to work on this, lacking the strength at the moment to push bigger gears when needed and I keep resorting to spinning light gears at ridiculous cadences for the same speed which I know is not efficient.

I'm going to incorporate some torque training over winter this year and see if it helps.

I tend to spin rather than grind, but that really stemmed from me riding flats and not hills. I started to incorporate rough 'cadence' drills into some of my commuting (still do) rather than 'just 85-90 rpm everywhere'. I only tend to do them on one 1.5mile boring stretch of road. It helped me before where I struggled to sweetspot when tired and on longer rides so I've tried to continue doing it :D

Now I'm climbing more I like to stand and push at around 60-70rpm, I've tried to incorporate it into some of my flat riding too (when doing distances) as it helps to free up my shoulders and reduce foot/bum numbness!

I think being 'happy' at different cadences (maintain by feeling, not by garmin), on the flat and the inclines takes practice more than anything else. I'm guessing many riders can then 'sweetspot' at different cadences?
 
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Just as a heads up, Planet X reckon 10 months/2000 miles is an acceptable lifespan for a freehub. I declined their polite offer to buy a new one! I'm pretty set now on rebuilding the rim on to a Dura Ace hub. I've wanted to build a wheel for ages so this seems like a good opportunity.

That's ridiculous :/ Can't say I've ever been impressed by PX's CS.
 
Going to the Pyrenees in September with oli collett and I only have a standard double and 12-27 cassette. I like to think I'm a decent climber, but would hate to be searching for a lower gear. Unfortunately, a Campag Chorus 12-29 cassette is £100 so I'd prefer not to have to buy one!

On other forums people suggest having a compact with a 28 at the back but they are probably fat MAMILs right? :p
 
Just as a heads up, Planet X reckon 10 months/2000 miles is an acceptable lifespan for a freehub. I declined their polite offer to buy a new one! I'm pretty set now on rebuilding the rim on to a Dura Ace hub. I've wanted to build a wheel for ages so this seems like a good opportunity.

Yeh the bearings in both hubs, and bottom bracket needed replacing on my PX, after around the same period. Slightly higher mileage at 2,500 miles, and I did ride in some pretty poor conditions.
 
Just as a heads up, Planet X reckon 10 months/2000 miles is an acceptable lifespan for a freehub. I declined their polite offer to buy a new one! I'm pretty set now on rebuilding the rim on to a Dura Ace hub. I've wanted to build a wheel for ages so this seems like a good opportunity.
WTF, that's appalling! Compare that to my Shimano Exage from the mid 90's - I only had to start replacing that stuff last year!
 
Going to the Pyrenees in September with oli collett and I only have a standard double and 12-27 cassette. I like to think I'm a decent climber, but would hate to be searching for a lower gear. Unfortunately, a Campag Chorus 12-29 cassette is £100 so I'd prefer not to have to buy one!

On other forums people suggest having a compact with a 28 at the back but they are probably fat MAMILs right? :p

How steep are the climbs?

Maybe run a 12-28? If that's not low enough you could swap cranks to 36/52 as they seem to be all the rage now!
 
Going to the Pyrenees in September with oli collett and I only have a standard double and 12-27 cassette. I like to think I'm a decent climber, but would hate to be searching for a lower gear. Unfortunately, a Campag Chorus 12-29 cassette is £100 so I'd prefer not to have to buy one!

On other forums people suggest having a compact with a 28 at the back but they are probably fat MAMILs right? :p

When I went to Cyprus last year, I took a compact with an 11-25, and struggled, but this year when I went to Majorca, due to the difference in gradient (longer, slightly less steep) I had an 11-28 and don't remember at any point using anything but 25 and down. Don't know how steep most of the Pyrenees is, but I'm guessing it will be longer gradual climbs of 6% with some short sharp bits, would expect the 27 will be fine for a flyweight like you!
 
Don't know how steep most of the Pyrenees is, but I'm guessing it will be longer gradual climbs of 6% with some short sharp bits, would expect the 27 will be fine for a flyweight like you!

I think the Pyrenees are quite steep. I've cycled in Mallorca and i would agree with you: not too steep.
I've been to the pyrenees but not cycling, so it's quite difficult to compare. I expect you'll manage in the 39-27 without having to get off and push but it would be easier (and faster) with a bigger cassette.
 
I can quite comfortably 'mash' in a low gear at around 75/80rpm equally I can spin comfortably at 95rpm but the latter is more aerobically taxing and I'm just a bit lazy :p That said I find sustaining higher power output over a long period 8-10 mins more comfortable with a high cadence than I do a low one.

Depending on your zinc/magnesium levels you might find TDT spray could help. Nothing androgenic/anabolic about it (unfortunately ;)) but it's been well received. That or just supplement with ZMA.

http://transdermaltechnology.co.uk/products

(Ben Coomber's brianchild)

I might look into ZMA but I do already take a ton of supps and really would prefer to cut down rather than increase :p

(creatine, beta alanine, taurine before bed, vit d, glucosamine, omega 3/6)
 
I think I'll just go for it and see. I don't want to replace my cassette until it's worn out, not at £100 a pop!

On a similar note, anyone with experience of carbon clinchers in the mountains? Most sites seem to suggest I will crash/die horribly when my tubes blow out from heat build up.:D

I emailed Campagnolo and they say that I will be fine if I use proper braking technique and stress my wheelset is for elite racing only haha.
 
So I had to visit 5 different chemists today. All but one had closed for lunch, you'd think that would be their busiest time. Anywho, I eventually got given some nappy rash cream for my saddle sores, Sudocrem. Anyone tried it for this purpose? Did it work? Only one way to find out I guess. This post was just to rant at pharmacy closures really :)
 
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