Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Had a really nice ride last night, felt like I actually achieved something:
https://www.strava.com/activities/704146030
Especially proud of my new PR on Staveley to Minskip (took almost a minute off it, and I thought the previous one was fast. I was on the front from just outside Staveley village to the junction in Minskip, so for about 1.5 miles. Killing myself. Oh it was hard, and got a really bad stitch around 20 miles in that lasted for ages and I couldn't breathe properly, but really enjoyed it
https://www.strava.com/activities/704146030
Especially proud of my new PR on Staveley to Minskip (took almost a minute off it, and I thought the previous one was fast. I was on the front from just outside Staveley village to the junction in Minskip, so for about 1.5 miles. Killing myself. Oh it was hard, and got a really bad stitch around 20 miles in that lasted for ages and I couldn't breathe properly, but really enjoyed it
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 14,064
- Location
- France, Alsace
Sounds like someone trying to speak with a mouth full of sandwich
I played around with mounts for my S5 when starting out. Tried all the £20-£40 cheap ones and none of them seemed stable. My next option was a £80 Quadloc. Then I realised - why was I spending £80 to strap a £500 smartphone to my bars when a basic Garmin, with a mount was the same price as the mount... Admittedly I bought an 810 for £230 in the end!I don't cycle enough to justify getting a decent bicycle GPS, but I wanted the option to use navigation. I have been looking for options to use an old phone of mine, but I didn't like any of the off the shelf products (or the good products were for iphone/out of budget.
Found a video last week of someone who had DIY'd a mount and I liked it, so below is the result.
Short video
Although a guy from work did get a Quadloc and I had a play around with it - very impressed and if I had to strap my smartphone to my bars I'd certainly get/recommend one.
Close pass but no closer than most you'd get on that narrow road. Unfortunately much of mid/south wales' roads are like that, fantastic roads to ride on but not exactly great for heavy traffic and cycling.
Sky bus driver should know better - equally for the ToB I bet he's just a contracted bus driver, not exactly a 'Team Sky' member of staff (like a grand tour driver would be?).
Similar symptoms to a collapsing arch? Or just need stiffer shoes to stop the twist?
Good ride mate, impressive and one to be proud of!
Lol.
Translates to something like Moor/Hill land with trees or something like that. Pronounced 'Rhos-lan-er-cru-gog' to you uneducated english
Don't get me started on english place names either! Port is mouth! Rat Island!
You can't talk Ross, you're a Jones like me!
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Well they're perfectly true but I'm told the recommended upper end spoke tension for DS is around 160kgf and the spokes are actually spinning at the nipple/end of the thread if they try to go any higher, currently around the 135kgf, which is mid-range.
Queried if it's a case of needing new spokes or if it's just an inherent limit with this particular wheel. Was told the latter but as always would value your input
Suggested I check the skewer is sufficiently tight (I never run mine loose, I'm paranoid) and that the caliper is centered over the wheel, which it is. Will ride on them again this evening and see if the slight increase in tension they managed helps at all.
Lol, no! Mae hen wlad fy nhadau yn anwyl i mi.So it translates to Wales?
Can't see how the wheel is the fault they can't get the spokes tight, sounds more like an excuse they don't want to remove the nipples, clean and grease the threads, then rebuild it...Well they're perfectly true but I'm told the recommended upper end spoke tension for DS is around 160kgf and the spokes are actually spinning at the nipple/end of the thread if they try to go any higher, currently around the 135kgf, which is mid-range.
Queried if it's a case of needing new spokes or if it's just an inherent limit with this particular wheel. Was told the latter but as always would value your input
Also I thought you said they were Aerolite spokes? If so they should be gripping them with a suitable aero spoke holder which would stop them 'spinning'...
Well they're perfectly true but I'm told the recommended upper end spoke tension for DS is around 160kgf and the spokes are actually spinning at the nipple/end of the thread if they try to go any higher, currently around the 135kgf, which is mid-range.
Queried if it's a case of needing new spokes or if it's just an inherent limit with this particular wheel. Was told the latter but as always would value your input
Suggested I check the skewer is sufficiently tight (I never run mine loose, I'm paranoid) and that the caliper is centered over the wheel, which it is. Will ride on them again this evening and see if the slight increase in tension they managed helps at all.
everything i've read about Aeolus wheels says they're a bit of a pain tension wise. if it's really 33% tension balance, then 135kgf puts NDS tension about 45kg, which isnt a lot. It'd probably take a full rebuild as Roady says to get them up the max tension (160KG would require great lubrication and a lot of stress relieving)
Thing is, they're within the manufacturers specs, so essentially they are correct as they are. Not much you can do about that save sell them on and get something else
Lateral rigidity (or lack thereof) is only really the fault of spoke tension when it's way too low
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Thanks, I'll speak to the local Trek Store, avoiding the n00b that rounded my seatpost bolt, and see what they make of it.
Winter wheels will be on soon enough so provides an opportunity to have work done if needed. Any idea on a rough cost?
a local fella i know charges £35/wheel for new builds. It's worth seeing if any local specialist builders are interested in taking it on imho, they'd probably do a better job than the trek store
When looking at doing some 'semi-recycled wheelbuilding' (set of Rovals I bought with broken spokes and a hub which needs bearings) I quickly found that rims are one of the cheaper parts of a build - the cost of spokes quickly escalates the build cost when you're talking about replacing them @£2.50-£4 a pop (I was going to swap out all the old aerolites for CX-rays).
Basically what I'm saying is - providing your hubs are good, whats keeping you to those rims if they're possibly involved with the 'difficulty' in build/tension? If you're paying someone to replace spokes & rebuild you will probably find a new rim a good future-proof investment (as it might save build cost due to the easier time building them, with less spoke failures - due to higher tensions talked about on your current).
Just my thoughts, I don't even know the Aeolus wheelset or very much about Trek/Bontr wheels in general.
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Haha, so I'm being too clever for my own good and it's not quite such a ropey measurement as I first thought!
Your cleverness should be measured in lightbulb moments per decade (LM/D)
Oh man, I'm not coming back from that.
Lol.
Translates to something like Moor/Hill land with trees or something like that. Pronounced 'Rhos-lan-er-cru-gog' to you uneducated english
Don't get me started on english place names either! Port is mouth! Rat Island!
Why don't they say that then, stupid sheep fiddling types! Anyway its PortsMOOF!
Is this using old fashioned proper lightbulbs or the slow dim energy saving ones?
